Timing belt life- let it break!?

[von dutchoven]

I've replaced two timing belts the first without removing the crank pulley and the second with removing it. it was much easier to do with removal of the pulley. You really do need someway to lock the engine to take the pulley off without moving the engine. I was doing the oil trap at the same time so since everything was out of the way it was easy to take the starter out and use a vw beetle flywheel locking tool on the flex plate. they seem to have the same tooth spacing.

[saltycyclist]

This job is approaching quickly for me, my belt was last done at 131k miles, and I’m at 217k now. How a hard is it While I’m in there to to do the camshaft seals and vvt o-rings?

[AKAMick]

Replacing the TB by itself is pretty simple job, adding camshaft seals complicates it quite a bit and the Volvo type cam locking tool is required to be fit from the opposite end of the head, skip the seals if they are not leaking and the PCV is clean, Replacing the tensioner, idler and water pump is optional too, but many do it as a precaution during the job,

[Astro14]

Replacing the TB by itself is pretty simple job, adding camshaft seals complicates it quite a bit and the Volvo type cam locking tool is required to be fit from the opposite end of the head, skip the seals if they are not leaking and the PCV is clean, Replacing the tensioner, idler and water pump is optional too, but many do it as a precaution during the job,

I'll second the need for the cam locking tool (I have one) and the advice to skip the seals if your PCV is good.

The tensioner and idler, however, are most certainly required. They are the parts that typically wear out and kill the belt, not the other way 'round.

If my car had 213K on it, and had the original water pump, I would absolutely do that, too. My WP on the XC gave up at 170,000 miles. An excellent life. On the 2002 V70, I replaced it pre-emptively at 180,000.

[saltycyclist]

Replacing the TB by itself is pretty simple job, adding camshaft seals complicates it quite a bit and the Volvo type cam locking tool is required to be fit from the opposite end of the head, skip the seals if they are not leaking and the PCV is clean, Replacing the tensioner, idler and water pump is optional too, but many do it as a precaution during the job,

I'll second the need for the cam locking tool (I have one) and the advice to skip the seals if your PCV is good.

The tensioner and idler, however, are most certainly required. They are the parts that typically wear out and kill the belt, not the other way 'round.

If my car had 213K on it, and had the original water pump, I would absolutely do that, too. My WP on the XC gave up at 170,000 miles. An excellent life. On the 2002 V70, I replaced it pre-emptively at 180,000.

Thanks for the feedback!
Theres a small amount of oil that looks like its come from the back of the pulleys, but it doesn't look recently deposited. The PCV is still working great, thankfully. The TB was done at ~130k, theres a faded sticker on the computer box, id guess the WP had been done as well. The kit from IPD arrived today (Belt, pump, tensioner, idler), so ill be tearing into it this weekend!

[saltycyclist]

Quick update: Did the TB, WP, tensioner, and idler last weekend. Didnt take off the crank pulley. It was slightly more difficult, had to contort the belt thru some narrow gaps. The most difficult thing was locating the TINY timing marks on the crank gear, but I figured as long as the cam marks were both right, the crank would be too. It went very smoothly, the most challenging thing was getting the tensioner slacked off just right to get the belt over the WP gear. Id give this job 3 wrenches, out of 5.