Originally Posted by
AKAMick
Replacing the TB by itself is pretty simple job, adding camshaft seals complicates it quite a bit and the Volvo type cam locking tool is required to be fit from the opposite end of the head, skip the seals if they are not leaking and the PCV is clean, Replacing the tensioner, idler and water pump is optional too, but many do it as a precaution during the job,
I'll second the need for the cam locking tool (I have one) and the advice to skip the seals if your PCV is good.
The tensioner and idler, however, are most certainly required. They are the parts that typically wear out and kill the belt, not the other way 'round.
If my car had 213K on it, and had the original water pump, I would absolutely do that, too. My WP on the XC gave up at 170,000 miles. An excellent life. On the 2002 V70, I replaced it pre-emptively at 180,000.
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
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