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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

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    yes, this is the '07 with the burnt valve that I replaced. I took it took a trans shop and they seemed fairly thorough going over the trans and a bunch of other stuff. They didn't crack it open, but based on all the symptoms, the reading, my history they told me I need a new trans.

    I'd love to tackle this myself, I don't care how long it takes, but I wonder if it's possible for me to do it. I don't have a lift, if I know someone who does can I pull it, bring it home work on it there and then reinstall? Or can I can put the front wheels on ramps and jack up the rear and do it on my back (that sounds like it would not be fun).

    I know I should junk it, or part it out, it's such a nice car. But I'm not ready to give up.

    how much skill, special tools, $$ and time would I need to try to repair that tranny?

    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    yes, this is the '07 with the burnt valve that I replaced. I took it took a trans shop and they seemed fairly thorough going over the trans and a bunch of other stuff. They didn't crack it open, but based on all the symptoms, the reading, my history they told me I need a new trans.

    I'd love to tackle this myself, I don't care how long it takes, but I wonder if it's possible for me to do it. I don't have a lift, if I know someone who does can I pull it, bring it home work on it there and then reinstall? Or can I can put the front wheels on ramps and jack up the rear and do it on my back (that sounds like it would not be fun).

    I know I should junk it, or part it out, it's such a nice car. But I'm not ready to give up.

    how much skill, special tools, $$ and time would I need to try to repair that tranny?

    drGian

    I just completed a transmission rebuild and it took me 4 1/2 days, 1 day to remove and begin disassembly, 2 1/2 days to rebuild the transmission (my 1st time) and 1 day to re-install and put everything back together. This is with a lot of planning up front and having everything I could think of ready ahead of time.
    Cost was $535 for the rebuild kit, $150 for the torque converter rebuild and 3 years, 25,000 miles ago I put in a new $500 valve body so just reused the VB.

    For tools it depends on what you already have, I have a good set of tools including an engine support bar but still needed some items for this job. I bought a worm drive hand winch to raise and lower the transmission, spring compressor for the clutch packs, ATSG manual, chain and hardware for the engine and transmission, wood to build a support frame and support the subframe.

    Overall this is a major job for a DIYer and I only did it because I had the time and interest to do it and fortunately it worked out but I wasn't prepare to do it over again if something when wrong. If you do decide to do it yourself I'll provide all the details I can although my car is a FWD V70 T5 so there will be additional work for an XC. Not sure I would recommend doing this because it's so much work and much could go wrong and it does take a bunch of tools so could cost a lot if you're not starting out with most of them.

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    Last edited by FirstVolvo; 04-17-2020 at 11:23 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,420

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    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    I know someone who does can I pull it, bring it home work on it there and then reinstall? Or can I can put the front wheels on ramps and jack up the rear and do it on my back
    To get the trans out it is easiest if you remove the front subframe w/control arms.etc - so ramps will not work, and a brace has to be above to hold the engine up with the trans out of the car.
    Last edited by hoonk; 04-17-2020 at 06:36 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

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    Hello, First Volvo,

    I have exhausted all other options here. I have 100 hours and $5000 into this car. I can’t sell it for much more than scrap and I can’t just can’t give up. So I’m in. If you’ll still help me I’ll pull it, rebuild it, and put it back in. I’m working from home so I have 2 hours a day or so and most of the weekends.

    As I understand it, first step is to pull it. I can pull both left and right transaxles and the driveshaft. I’ve had all those out already and I have a replacement passenger side transaxle as the outer boot is cracked on the one I have now. Otherwise I can pull the coolant lines and I’m not sure what else. But I’ll get started on that.

    Next I guess I need to build or borrow a hoist. Where I live in western MI everyone has an engine hoist, I bet I can borrow one.

    Let me know if that sounds like a good start. Sounds like you spent just over a grand on parts and tools. Which I can manage.

    But before I start what other tools will I need?


    I have a garage where this car sits and I can work on it and then leave right where I left off. I’ve got heat there for when I work in the winter.

    lmk - I’d be forever indebted to you. I don’t see any other viable option here. I’ve successfully replaced the head gasket on this car, it’s got the CVVT so that wasn’t trivial. And I’ve done that job 3 times now (on the different V70 XC’s). This one is slated for my daughter. My first was for my older daughter and she’s driving it now. My 2nd went fine but was totaled (by my older daughter going 40 looking at her phone). This was the 3rd.

    drGian

    Thanks in advance and for your advice so far.
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    Hello, First Volvo,

    I have exhausted all other options here. I have 100 hours and $5000 into this car. I can’t sell it for much more than scrap and I can’t just can’t give up. So I’m in. If you’ll still help me I’ll pull it, rebuild it, and put it back in. I’m working from home so I have 2 hours a day or so and most of the weekends.

    As I understand it, first step is to pull it. I can pull both left and right transaxles and the driveshaft. I’ve had all those out already and I have a replacement passenger side transaxle as the outer boot is cracked on the one I have now. Otherwise I can pull the coolant lines and I’m not sure what else. But I’ll get started on that.

    Next I guess I need to build or borrow a hoist. Where I live in western MI everyone has an engine hoist, I bet I can borrow one.

    Let me know if that sounds like a good start. Sounds like you spent just over a grand on parts and tools. Which I can manage.

    But before I start what other tools will I need?


    I have a garage where this car sits and I can work on it and then leave right where I left off. I’ve got heat there for when I work in the winter.

    lmk - I’d be forever indebted to you. I don’t see any other viable option here. I’ve successfully replaced the head gasket on this car, it’s got the CVVT so that wasn’t trivial. And I’ve done that job 3 times now (on the different V70 XC’s). This one is slated for my daughter. My first was for my older daughter and she’s driving it now. My 2nd went fine but was totaled (by my older daughter going 40 looking at her phone). This was the 3rd.

    drGian

    Thanks in advance and for your advice so far.
    I'll just say this up front, be sure you're really committed to doing this, it's a ton of work, time consuming and a lot can potentially go wrong that would require the transmission to be pulled, repaired and reinstalled again and I'm far from an expert on doing this job. After I completed the job I was very tired and sore and told my wife if the transmission doesn't work the first time I'm not doing it over again.

    For tools I'll need some idea what you already have but I'll start with what you might not have and must have or optional but highly recommended.

    Engine support bar (see photos). What's important about the engine support is that the engine hangs from the lift points without twisting the engine. This means chains from the two lift points are vertical up to the support bar and this was a challenge with a single bar. The lift points are offset and I had to add another bar piece to get directly over the passenger side lift point but I wasn't directly over the drivers side lift point so the support chain was at an angle and twisted the engine some. This makes things more difficult when installing the transmission and why it's important. It's also not good to flex the exhaust flex coupling too much.
    Getting the support bar, chain and misc bolts, washers and nuts ready ahead of time is worth the effort. Same for the transmission. It's important to do a good job supporting the engine as you'll be doing some working underneath with the engine hanging only by the support bar and hardware. After the subframe was out I did place a jack under the oil pan for added safety.

    Floor jack and 2 x 6 board long enough to support the subframe, see photo. I also has a couple of furniture dollies to rest the subframe on and move it around but these would be optional.

    Powerful impact; optional but highly recommended for subframe bolts, front strut bolts, wheel lug bolts and others. Big labor and time saver.

    Good quality torx bit set, up to T50 for the flywheel to torque converter bolts.

    Good set of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 extensions and universal joints.

    Engine hoist you mentioned you can get. This will be used to raise and lower the transmission from the engine bay. Have the strap or chain and hardware on hand and checked out ahead of time. In my case I used the a hand winch for this task but a hoist or a transmission jack can also be used.

    30mm socket to hold the front crankshaft bolt while loosening and tightening the flywheel bolts.

    For the transmission rebuild I'll take a picture of the tools I had to purchase and post later. Not much really but must haves, spring compressor, couple of snap ring pliers and busing driver kit. I should also mention I have an air compressor and I used this for air checks of the clutch packs.

    ATSG manual for this transmission. Must have for the parts diagrams, torque values, clearances, general operation, etc.

    Furniture dolly or equivalent to rest the transmission on for moving it around.

    If I think of anything more must-have items I'll post but this is a start for now. Next I'll list the steps of what's needed to remove the transmission and highlight things to really pay attention to. I'll include many more photos too but I'll need to resize them since I'm having some problems uploading them now.


    Here's a first cut at the steps to remove the transmission. Just a list of everything I can remember doing and not much detail but want to give you an idea what's required. I have some photos but not many during the transmission removal. I'll post those later.

    https://app.box.com/s/ztpjs9gqd8a64tg3tx1ox1r9cjet5vub
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jack and 2X6 under subframe for lowering.jpg   OTC stinger support bar, middle opening ideal for winch II.jpg   Added support bar for front liffting point.jpg  
    Last edited by FirstVolvo; 05-30-2020 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Added link to trans removal doc

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    631

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    If it slips going into third gear - isn't this a symptom of a loose third gear band caused by someone removing the bolt from the top of the trans that so temptingly looks like a plug you can remove to refill fluid? There's a thread here on that...

    bit 'o googling: https://www.atsg.us/atsg/blog/nothir...ntransmission/

    You can fish around and recapture the end of the band without taking the trans apart.

    https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...NE-PLEASE-READ!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

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    I'll check that, but there are other symptoms. It's throwing all sorts of tranny codes, it takes 2-3 seconds to thunk into reverse and it never gets into 5th. To refill fluid I used the yellow dipstick that has trans fluid marks on it.

    When I got her she ran fine and this all started after the rebuild of the engine, alternator replacement, Xemodex computer replacement and my daughter using her as her daily driver for about a month. During that month, I didn't go near her.

    But yeah, I'll read that thread and look for that bolt.
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

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    Thanks for getting back to me; I'm sorry for the delay but this project is not going to be a summer project. My back garage (pole barn) is heated and there is plenty of room back there. I had been painting my house, but I finally gave up on that and hired a crew of professionals. And so I spent last week looking over there shoulders and on may 5 I got a new job so I've been busy trying to make that good 1st impression so this has taken a back seat. With the lockdown, I have nowhere to go, so my daughter has been driving my car.

    But I'm in if you are and while I'm aware there are no guarantees, but let me say up front I appreciate your willingness to help. I'm going to go through the tools you call out in your post and let you know what I already have and I'll work on getting that I don't between now and the fall when I intend to start this project. Could be sooner, but there is so much critical work outside this house, you know how it is..

    Furniture movers and dolly's I have some lightweight stuff and some heavyweight stuff so I'm good there. I don't have any engine hoists or bars or chains or whatnot. Can I just buy an engine hoist that will handle the offset lift points? Would something like this work? (https://www.amazon.com/Partsam-Elect...972221&sr=8-12) . Presumably, I could adjust it so the engine didn't get twisted or torqued on the way out. I was confused by your comment about the exhaust extension, wouldn't that be removed at an early stage? It came off with 3 bolts when I pulled the head.

    I'm not sure if I have a T50, but I very well might. I have a 30mm socket that I needed to remove the crank pulley when setting the timing and swapping the timing belt on the engine rebuild. I think you can get buy without it, but i wanted to see those timing marks up close.

    I have a ridiculous amount of tools all things considered. I have a small pancake compressor for my brad nailer, but I also have a gas compressor with the two tubes on the bottom and a hardcore (although not 3/4") impact driver that has gotten most bolts of I've been able to get it on. When I can't get that in there I use a breaker bar and a series of black pipe extensions to get as much torque as I can. I have a full set of metric 12" sockets and various ratchets, extension, angle extension and wobble extensions that are great cause you can sneak in without losing a lot of torque. So I think in general, with regard to tools I'm pretty well set.

    Since I last posted, I asked around if I could find anyone to do it and I couldn't, I called two local shops, they don't want the job and I put in a quart of some sort of lucas oil that will fix slips and what not and it's just steadily getting worse. I have pulled the insurance on it and it's now all set back in the garage.

    So I guess the first step is for me to read what you've posted and for you to let me know if that eletric winch engine hoist will do the trick.

    Thanks again for the help. I think it will be good to take this nice and slow, read up on it first and collect the necessary tools before I'm knee deep in grease.

    -drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    One of the challenges I had was supporting the engine from a support bar without it twisting, which meant you have to have the support chains or hooks directly over the engine support brackets. The four point support bar I've linked to should provide the adjustability to get directly over the engine brackets. You could also make something yourself and I looked at doing this and using the front struts cross bar as support and a support frame resting on the cross bar and radiator support area. The engine doesn't need to move up and down just hang there without twisting or tilting.
    The electric hoist you linked could work to support the engine with a hoist leveler or to raise and lower the transmission if you get the hoist positioned correctly. With an overhead hoist though you'll likely have to remove or position the hood back far enough. I think an engine support bar would be better for hanging the engine though, more stability overall. The hoist would work well for raising and lowering the transmission.

    here's a four point support bar that I think would work well
    https://norcoindustries.com/products...port-tool.html

    For the transmission rebuild I purchased the following tools.

    Driver set to install new bushings. I also purchased several internal snap rings sizes to drive out the bushing. I'll post more about this later.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Clutch spring compressor

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Lock ring horseshoe washer pliers. I already had regular snap ring pliers.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Transmission RTV
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The clutch spring tool I purchases works through a hole and for those clutches without a through hole I used bar clamps and the compression legs from the tool, see photos. I did have a problem compressing the forward clutch springs with bar clamps I had because I couldn't compress the stronger springs. I'd recommended using at least medium duty clamps with the screw type clamp for more clamping pressure. The one handed clamps didn't provide enough clamping force for the one clutch. 16 inch or longer bar clamp is needed for the 3rd gear band servo.

    https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Tools-F1...65&s=hi&sr=1-4


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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

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    I didn't even know that an automatic trans HAS a clutch so clearly I have a long way to go here. I spend today organizing tools and cleaning up after my last job (which was the head gasket on this same car and 3 bent valves. What bugs me so much now is that she runs like an atomic clock, she starts and idles and (except for the shifting issues) drives great, you can hear and feel the turbo whine. So I can just give her away and the mechanics I've called either won't touch her or want outrageous money to buy a reman trans and put it it ($5000).

    So I'm committed. What you're describing makes sense about the engine, I didn't realize it doesn't come out, just needs support and no twisting around. I'll gather up the parts and other stuff you describe here and there so the wife won't notice one large cash layout (I've learned that's the secret). I have enough projects around the house to keep me busy till deer season and then I'll be hunting until I fill my 2 tags. After that I'll dive into this trans. I will collect the tools and whatnot until then and start and run here every few weeks so she stays healthy.

    I'll hit you up here when I start buying stuff. Thanks, in advance, for your help, I sure hope I can pull this off. It's a really nice car; she'll be 18 in November (my daughter) I'd like her to have it by summer so she can use it to get to work and then (hopefully) college in 2021. I think she's got another 100K in her easily once I fix this trans and a few other small things (front right driveshaft and CV joints, and a few other codes I need to chase down)

    You can reach me at giandiloreto (at) gmail directly maybe when we get into the meat of this project we can just communicate via email, but it's up to you.

    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

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