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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    111

    Default continued 2008 xc 70 blues

    the '08 saga continues. I got the ECU back from XModex and she fired right up, I was delighted. Now she has 2 (although I'm sure they are the same root cause) trans issues.

    a) she will go into limp mode and throw the generic engine trans issue code (P0900) and the A/T will throw P0970 solenoid C circuit Low.

    b) I will get no A/T codes, I will get P0900 and she will slip like a standard with a totally burned out clutch.


    as a quick start I drained the fluid and I don't even think I'm doing that right. I have her up ramps and I got about 2 quarts out. the good news is that the fluid I got out had no observable metal after a thorough sweet with a magnet. Also (I don't know if this is good or bad) it has clearly never, or not in a long while, been changed as it was more of a rust color that bright red).

    I don't know where to start, you guys know me, I want to just start swapping parts like the trans ECU or find the 'C' sensor and swap that out. But I'm learning so I figured I'd ask first where to start. I did clean off the pins from the ECU and they look nice and coppery and none are bent but that's all so far.

    I have a boot legged copy of Vida but (it's Vida B) and I reset the clock but it came up with 'the last time logged in was later than the current time' so I need to research how to get back in there as a lot of the posts seem to indicate Vida will help me here.

    Lastly, I have a Volvo specific code reader that gives you more info than the standard codes, I'll run that and post anything that I can find.

    Thanks, as always for the help.

    To be clear this is a different car than the older model I have with the ABS issues.

    Thanks as always,

    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    the '08 saga
    a) she will go into limp mode and throw the generic engine trans issue code (P0900) and the A/T will throw P0970 solenoid C circuit Low.

    b) I will get no A/T codes, I will get P0900 and she will slip like a standard with a totally burned out clutch.


    I drained the fluid and got about 2 quarts out.
    IF, this is the 07 xc70 that had a dead cylinder you were trying to fix months ago -

    You have the 5 cyl engine with the known problematic transmissions.

    Draining the Trans fluid. - Whenever I drain this style trans I drain into a graduated container and usually get about 3.50 quarts from a full transmission. (that way I know how much to put back in) IF you removed the drain plug and got "about 2 quarts" - that could be your slippage - low fluid level = trans slippage.

    Unfortunately if the trans continues to slip when full I have found the only permanent solution is a replacement transmission.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    111

    Default

    exactly, this is the same '07 I have been struggling with for the last list 18 months. The plug drain yielded 3-4 quarts now now that I measured it carefully. the few I got out were visibly dirty.

    researching, i got the advice to keep pumping it out 2 L at ta time until it runs clean, add 2 fresh liters back and proceed. Is this a viable approach, a good idea?

    any advice would be great, thanks
    Gian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Landenberg, PA
    Posts
    224

    Default

    I agree with Hoonk, sounds like your fluid level might be off. See if you can get it to the correct level, then work on getting new fluid in.


    2005 XC70 - 50/35 Tint, Yakima Rack

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    exactly, this is the same '07 I have been struggling with for the last list 18 months. --- add 2 fresh liters back and proceed. Is this a viable approach, a good idea?

    New fluid is more "slippery" than old burnt fluid. So sometimes new fluid will make a transmission slip worse.

    You purchased the car with valve problems and a damaged ecu. Is it possible you purchased the car with a bad transmission also?

    Has the car been driven a substantial amount of time with the engine running normally at any point of your ownership? And did the transmission operate properly during that time? The last <07 i purchased had a bad transmission, it would drive normally for 10-15 minutes then would slip so bad you wondered if it would make it back to the shop. That car had 120k on the original trans.


    I suspect you can change the fluid all you want, but that won't fix the slipping transmission.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,876

    Default

    Before you can state that the trans is dead, the engine must be running properly and the fluid level must be accurate.

    If you’re measuring and saying you got 4 Liters out of it, or 2, then you need to really tighten up your measurements. 200ml of fluid is the difference between the top and bottom of the range and temperature makes an even bigger difference.

    Google the dipstick markings for this and understand what you’re reading.

    To check, either hot or cold, the car must be idling, on dead level ground, in park and have both D and R engaged after start. The acceptable range is about 4mm. That’s right. 4mm.

    If you want to change the fluid, OK, but the way you’re measuring isn’t accurate enough. I would get the IPD kit so you’ve got the hose and trans cooler line o-rings. You’ll need 14quarts of fluid. Make certain that the fluid is JWS-3309 or Toyota T-IV compatible. Personally, I would just go to your Toyota dealer and buy a case of T-IV. You won’t get a better JWS-3309 fluid, though you can pay a LOT more.

    Make certain that when you’re done that the fluid level is within tolerance.

    Then drive it and see how the transmission is doing.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    494

    Default

    If the Transmission is slipping it can be rebuilt pretty easily, no voodoo about these things, the hardest part is getting it out of a XC, you find a lot of vehicles use a variation of this Aisin transmission, I just had to replace the torque converter and open up the transmission on a Nissan Quest that use's a model of the Aisin AW55N,The Converter sprag failed and the resulting debris plugged up the pick up screen, which is not in the pan but buried in the case, opened it up and removed and cleaned the screen, cleaned out the transmission of aluminum derbris from the failed sprag and converter impeller. The clutch packs were accessible during the repair but as it was not slipping we opted not to refresh them. The Nissan Quest is easier to R&R than a XC plus the pan can also be removed to adjust the linear solenoids easily. The fluid level on AW55N needs to be correct.
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo bricks, XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Thanks to you all for the reply. With regard to the fluid level I was way off there. Before I understood the concept of flushing the trans, I Just pulled the plug and a small amount of fluid came out, which I replaced to the 'cold' line on the dipstick. After more research I ran 8 liters through the trans and by the end what was coming out looked as good as what was going in. After this I took it for a test drive (this was yesterday the 11th) and while I got no codes she would slip as soon as she passed out of 2nd gear.

    Based on Astro14's comments, I checked the level today and I was quite significantly overfull, like an entire liter. So I drained out enough and set her up, cold, on a flat surface and got the level dead center on the middle nub in the 'cold' section of the dipstick.

    I took her our and the behavior is just like before. Putting her into reverse requires a 1 second wait between gearshift and the trans to catch up. she'll shift right into 1st and smoothly into 2nd and as she leaves 2nd she slips and all the warnings come on.

    I believe the guy who sold this to me took good care of it. The broken valve wouldn't be a surprise for a car with 200k miles on it (and a turbo at that) and most of the other components I have interacted with myself seem to be in good shape, the timing belt was replaced at 160k, etc. The computer I blew up myself by replacing the alternator without disconnecting the battery (I move I'm very proud of).

    At this point I think it's got to be something inside the trans as the level is perfect, the fluid is clean and red and I'm not even always getting error codes, although I do I'd say every 3rd test drive, which is about 2 miles.

    I've worked on cars my whole life, but the XC 70 (this is my 3rd) is the only car I've ever done any serious work on and that has all been from the pistons up. I have replaced a couple of clutches on my old Rabbits and Golfs. If I can avoid the knucklehead mistakes (such as not disconnecting the battery) do you think I can open up the trans and clean it up as AKAMick suggests? I have a dedicated garage, all the tools and the time (as we all do these days). So I guess it boils down to:

    1) try to fix it myself
    2) swap it out with a 'new' trans'
    3) take it somewhere

    I'm once again, asking for your advice, thanks as usual,


    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,334

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drgian View Post
    1) try to fix it myself
    2) swap it out with a 'new' trans'
    3) take it somewhere

    A really nice 200k mile xc70 (with nothing wrong with it) is worth somewhere between $2500 to $4000 according to KBB.com.

    If you
    1. try to fix it yourself - you will have a long learning curve learning how to rebuild a transmission. And you may have to take it out and apart several times to get it right. You will probably want to replace the valve body while you are there, and that part alone is $$

    2. Swap out - Maybe a few thousand to purchase an aftermarket "rebuilt" trans and a few days installation. I've always used a lift and the special volvo tool to mount the trans to a trans jack with, so I can't imagine a replacement sitting on my butt or laying under the car.

    3. Take it somewhere - Retail transmission replacement could be $5-6000.

    After transmission or valve body replacement you (or someone) will need VIDA to set the transmission in adaptation mode - even a new trans may not shift properly without doing that.

    Many times I had conversations with my customers about how it was not economically sensible to spend more than the car is worth for repairs. For one thing you don't know what is going to break next considering the 200k on the car already.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    521

    Default

    Just to be clear, I would verify the ATF level when the car is warm using the HOT range on the dipstick. If you have VIDA/DiCE hooked up, you can read the ATF temp while you drive. Once you hit 80 degrees, now you can get an accurate reading in the HOT range which I think is more reliable than a COLD reading. Also, VIDA provides a graph which shows where the fluid should read on the dipstick for a whole range of ATF temps from like 50-90 degrees. If you really want to nail the level...

    Slipping and a delayed engagement in a garage shift - like Reverse - can be a sign of low fluid pressure from improper ATF level, or a worn valve body, or fouled up solenoids...or a lot of other things.

    With 130k on my 2002, I was getting major trans slippage after about 5 minutes of driving when the ATF reached 60F. This was remedied with a new valve body but I ultimately destroyed the trans due to a botched install. Astro has an excellent tutorial in the Resources section.

    The washer in the back of the transmission case fell out when I was seating the new valve body. Although the trans was shifting fine, I was getting a 2-second delay in garage shifts and going into LIMP MODE sometimes while in 5th gear. I saw a youtube video showing a guy adjusting the shift solenoids to increase pressure. I figgered either the washer had fallen out or a solenoid needed adjustment...decided to try adjusting solenoid first because it was easier to access than remove VB to see if washer was missing...big mistake...lost REVERSE! Now I'm driving an '07. Oh well.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

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