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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    110

    Default No start, pulled codes, next step.

    Lost power and died on the side of the road. Pulled it home and did a VIDA DICE. Codes with yellow lights. CEM-4A31 and 35 Ejector signal and Fuel level . The other two were ECM-340B and 341B Inlet and Outlet cam sensor signal missing.

    i changed the cam seals and timing belt last summer. Wonder if I wasn't right on timing and it moved a little causing it to no send a signal.

    It fires once in a while when turning it over. Any suggestions? Thanks a bunch!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Ok, I'll post some of my thoughts. We know that there are splines on the crank shaft but there are none on cam shaft ends where they meet the vvt hubs/pulleys. Perhaps I did not torque those down enough to prevent the cam sensors from reading. If one cam sensor wasn't reading, I'd say it is the cam sensor. Both not reading, it seems that its something else. Or both cam sensors went bad at the same time.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by olevolvo View Post
    Lost power and died on the side of the road.
    It fires once in a while when turning it over. Any suggestions? Thanks a bunch!
    Compression, Fuel, fuel pressure, spark? Then cam timing.

    You would be surprised how many dead cars were towed to me because they were out of gas. Does the gas gauge work properly? (the fuel senders indicate 1/2 to full on one side of the saddle and empty to 1/2 on the other side.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Update: Put cam lock tool back on and timing marks all lined up perfect on all three cam gears. Noticed the crankshaft nut was missing. ( did not torque correctly on last timing belt job) Crank gear splines stripped so it was slightly out of time. Got a replacement gear that fits the crank but the roll pin is differnt and the harmonic balancer bolt holes don't line up. Looks like I'm on my way. I did pick up another 05 with 178k miles with a beautiful interior. Needs PCV and likely a haldex pump. Need a comfortable spare.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,877

    Default

    Quite a story.

    So, crank bolt came loose and fell off because it wasn’t torqued enough?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Quite a story.

    So, crank bolt came loose and fell off because it wasn’t torqued enough?
    Correct, I hate to admit it, but I can't tell a lie. I cheesed out on buying the crank locking tool. Could be a very costly mistake for not buying a 45 dollar tool.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,877

    Default

    I admire your honesty. I didn't have the crank tool the first time or two. It wasn't available. I fabricated a tool, that looked like a "Y" out of some 3/4" x 1/4" steel bar stock. It was about 2 feet long, and even with that, it was hard to get the proper torque. Now that I have the crank tool, I use it, but with a cheater pipe over the end...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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