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  1. #11

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    This is how you avoid an alignment with every suspension change.
    Pic I took is gone... Basically I strung it up myself with string and 4 jack stands.
    2.5" narrower in the rear.

    In my case nothing changed but the steering wheel alignment.
    1/8" toe in both sides was consistent.
    I just made equal turns on both tie rods to correct the wheel.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by NTXC View Post
    Have you thought about the subframe bushings? I know you did the inserts but in my reading up on them it seems like this clunk is one of the annoyances that a new set can potentially resolve.

    I’ll be doing mine once it warms up a bit and I currently have an occasional clunk at low speed hard turning (driveway mostly) clunk as well. Might be a little less pricey than replacing axles and you’ll get better handling out of it anyway vs replacing parts that don’t need it (axle replacements).
    ^^This...more and more reading and I'm leaning towards the subframe bushings. The kit IPD sells has the $11 "aftermarket" bushings vs the Volvo... I wonder if there is really a difference. One might assume not if IPD is using them in their "kit".
    At least I can still use the inserts I bought.

    The other thing thats leaning me to this is the continuous, over bump, sounds like everything is loose in the front end when it isnt sound......I'm exaggerating but thats how it sounds to me. Things sound loose that really arent so suspecting a bushing is likely and given the cost, might as well given the age.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    39

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    Seeing as it’s a pain in the ass job, I’d say go with the genuine stuff. You don’t want to have to do it again in only a year or two.

    I’ll be doing mine in the spring when I overhaul my suspension.

  4. #14

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    **UPDATE**

    First off - dont waste your time or money installing IPD subframe bushing inserts into Original bushings with over 200k miles on the car.
    Its just a waste of time.

    Second - Removing those inserts, even just a couple of weeks later is a total PITA and doubled the amount of time it took to do this job.
    No idea why as I used grease on the inserts to ease the pain of insertion but they were terribly stubborn about coming out.
    I did reuse them though since I already had them.

    For the bushing replacement -

    Did one at a time with the front end of ramps. When doing the rear bushing, I did raise the rear with a jack for a bit more room to wiggle around.
    Took bolt out, removed the insert, drilled and woller'd it out as best as possible then used a jigsaw to finish it off and get the center section out.
    Flat head screwdriver 90* to the plastic casing, tap until it breaks then turn the driver vertical and continue taping until it gets behind the plastic casing.
    Pry both directions to break the casing and pry the bushing out - this part was really not that hard.

    Clean up the subframe with wire brush on drill.
    Put a little WD40 on the new bushing to assist with install.
    Put two nuts between the subframe and frame as the bushing casing sticks out about 1/4" or so on the other side.
    Jack up the subframe - insert the new bushing with bolt and washer and slowly tighten to seat the new bushing in the subframe.
    Loosen, remove the nuts, tighten back down and move to the next one.

    Hope that all makes sense.......

    After several days and trips in the car, it cured all of my clunking and strange "sounds like the entire front-end is loose" noises.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,854

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    I appreciate the update. Thanks.

    I did the IPD inserts on the XC at about 180,000. The car is developing a few clunks now and then and I fear that this repair is in my near future....

    Disappointed that it didnít fix your clunking, however.

    Wish you were closer. I would like to give it a listen/look...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Which subframe bushings did you end up going with? Aside from the noises being gone any appreciable changes in the front end? I have no clue how the rest of your suspension is but I’m planning on a total overhaul with the IPD sway bars and can’t decide on the inexpensive bushings/genuine Volvo/ or those Delrin ones I’ll likely never have to replace again.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by NTXC View Post
    Which subframe bushings did you end up going with? Aside from the noises being gone any appreciable changes in the front end? I have no clue how the rest of your suspension is but I’m planning on a total overhaul with the IPD sway bars and can’t decide on the inexpensive bushings/genuine Volvo/ or those Delrin ones I’ll likely never have to replace again.
    I very recently replaced the following with the subframe bushings being last -

    End Links
    Lower ball joints
    Lower control arms
    Spring seats and tops
    subframe inserts
    - then the bushings and reused the inserts

    All of the above made a noticeable difference in how solid everything felt in a very general sense - nothing earth shattering.
    The subframe bushings, even with reusing the inserts seemed to make no real noticeable difference other than clearing up the noises I was hearing/feeling.

    I went with the Rein bushings From RockAuto for $6 each - since I already had the inserts and planned on reusing them, I couldnt justify paying 4x as much.
    They "appeared" to be exactly the same as the Volvo ones I took out, plastic casing and all......

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Awesome, thanks. I have the inserts in my old ones right now so I might do the same and put them back into the new ones.

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