Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Default Clunking - Series of events in detail

    2003 XC

    I've searched and read many threads but looking for possibly updated input since most threads on this are older.

    i had a clunk in the front end........

    Each note below was done one at a time, clunk remained but has changed or so it seems... lol

    Replaced End Links - end links were clearly toasted and needed replacing - clunking went away for awhile - believe this new clunk is unrelated
    Replaced lower ball joints - ball joints were spent as well - boots missing, just assumed it was time since clunk returned
    Replaced lower control arms - bushings didnt look "bad" per se, but visibly splitting when drooped so figured it couldnt hurt given the mileage and more clunk.
    TIGHTENED loose drivers side end link - no comments...........
    Added subframe bushing inserts - car has over 200k miles now so figured couldnt hurt and cheap.

    NOW - the clunking has changed to a low speed only - usually if i back out of a parking space then turn the wheel to start moving forward I get a solid clunk.
    Other times its just completely random.

    I've checked everything and nothing seems loose.

    I read in one thread that you should NOT be able to turn the top nut on the strut. When I put a wrench on that top nut, either side, the entire piston and spring move.
    Is this expected or is the spring seat busted maybe?

    Cheap replacements, just more time than anything, would be the spring seats and mount and inner/outer tie rods.
    Passenger side axle boot split during all of this work, no doubt due to some error in my handy work.
    I've also noticed what I believe to be more torque steer than usual on heavy throttle. I thought some of this could be due to alignment but not sure.

    Car seems to drive fine otherwise. I dont feel I have a life or death issue here, but want it fixed and curious of any input.
    Thanks in advance.......

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,910

    Default

    Spring seats last 60-80K, tops. Id start there...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Spring seats last 60-80K, tops. I’d start there...
    Roger that - Mine have about 100k on them now so I guess thats next in line...

    I feel like I'm just creating a weakest link scenario by slowly replacing worn parts and I'm now on the final stretch - hopefully.......

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,910

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    Roger that - Mine have about 100k on them now so I guess thats next in line...

    I feel like I'm just creating a weakest link scenario by slowly replacing worn parts and I'm now on the final stretch - hopefully.......
    When I first got some clunking on my XC - I did the same - replaced each part as it failed. But it cost me a couple of alignments along the way, and I had to do the whole job (struts out) a couple of times...

    Now, my advice is this: you get up to 80K from the last rebuild, just do everything, all at once, and you're good for another 4-8 years (depending on miles driven) and you're only out the cost of one alignment and you've only had to pull the struts once.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5

    Default

    To clarify for others that might read this - Just my findings anyway.

    The "spring seat" is NOT what will go bad - thats a thick solid piece of rubber thats highly unlikely to ever wear out.
    Mine with 100k miles looked new.

    Its the "Strut Mount" with the bearing that will wear out - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...upper-30714968
    My bearings had play in them and needed replacing.

    **YOU CAN REPLACE THE STRUT MOUNT WITHOUT COMPRESSING THE SPRING** Just take the top nut off and swap it out - there is a second nut holding the spring seat down independent of the top nut.

    HOWEVER - none of this fixed my clunking.

    Example from last night -

    I parked at the AutoZone to return the spring compressors - backed out of the space - almost full lock turn to swing out of the parking space and CLUNK - almost full lock and moving seems to be consistent.
    No clunking during normal driving.
    When I back out of our garage, I have to almost full lock to turn around a brick wall - rolling slow, I kept turning till it CLUNKed on the way out.

    Only thing I havent replaced is the tie rods and axles, but I cant quite wrap my head around what about either of those would be causing this.
    Could this be caused by the sway bar at all? Thats an easy test I might do today, but curious of your thoughts....

    Any input is helpful....Thanks.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,910

    Default

    Spring seats absolutely DO go bad....and often.

    The rubber rips/tears, and the central bushing is then loose. Then the strut, which is bolted tight into that bushing, moves up/down over bumps and bangs/thumps. Spring stays in place, but the top of the strut is moving up and down instead of being held in place.

    In fact, I’ve got a picture of a torn spring seat. Can’t seem to get it to upload.

    The strut is pushing up through it and sits about an inch higher than it should. It almost hits the hood. The rubber dust is from the strut shoving that bushing up and down through the damaged seat over bumps.

    PM me and I’ll send you a copy. It’s from one of my Volvo’s.
    Last edited by Astro14; 01-19-2020 at 08:02 PM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7

    Default

    Not arguing with you, just offering my opinion based on what I saw.
    Seat that was removed had about 100k on it and looked new.

    I can only imagine that if the rubber tore, the top nut to the seat wasnt tightened correctly and things were moving that shouldnt of been.
    Just a thought is all.....

    It seems MUCH more likely that the bearing in the strut top would go bad like mine did.
    Its a moving part thats certainly going to wear over time whereas the rubber seat shouldnt be moving, ever....

    My next swap will be the axles - its the only part highly impacted by near full lock or full lock turns that could be causing this noise.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    Not arguing with you, just offering my opinion based on what I saw.
    Seat that was removed had about 100k on it and looked new.

    I can only imagine that if the rubber tore, the top nut to the seat wasnt tightened correctly and things were moving that shouldnt of been.
    Just a thought is all.....

    It seems MUCH more likely that the bearing in the strut top would go bad like mine did.
    Its a moving part thats certainly going to wear over time whereas the rubber seat shouldnt be moving, ever....

    My next swap will be the axles - its the only part highly impacted by near full lock or full lock turns that could be causing this noise.
    Have you thought about the subframe bushings? I know you did the inserts but in my reading up on them it seems like this clunk is one of the annoyances that a new set can potentially resolve.

    I’ll be doing mine once it warms up a bit and I currently have an occasional clunk at low speed hard turning (driveway mostly) clunk as well. Might be a little less pricey than replacing axles and you’ll get better handling out of it anyway vs replacing parts that don’t need it (axle replacements).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,366

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    The "spring seat" is NOT what will go bad - thats a thick solid piece of rubber thats highly unlikely to ever wear out.

    Its the "Strut Mount" with the bearing that will wear out - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...upper-30714968

    HOWEVER - none of this fixed my clunking.
    Spring seat or strut cushion - My shop has replaced hundreds of spring seats (maybe per year in the early years), beginning with the 1992 850 (same part # was used on 850, s70, s80, s60, xc/v70 until xc90, then updated with thicker rubber)

    As others have said the steel sleeve in the center on the mount breaks loose and makes noise over bumps or when simply steering.

    I have replaced 0 strut mounts (unless damaged in an accident) Sure, I have seen many with suspect/stiff bearings but customers wanted the NOISE FIXED, and the strut cushion did that.

    Easy test for a spring seat - put a wrench on the nut on top of the shock - try to turn wrench. You will be able to turn the wrench if the spring seat is broken (and it maybe noisy). If you can only move the wrench less than 45 degrees and it springs back into place the seat is not torn.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NTXC View Post
    Have you thought about the subframe bushings?
    I'm torn on what to do TBH - my axles are NOT oem and several years old, about 100k miles on them. I've always had the initial vibration on acceleration since these are not OEM, I just never worried about it because its minor in my case.
    However, during some of the previous work, ball joints and control arms for example... sometime during that, I managed to rip the passenger side boot. I was wondering if the now lack of grease could of exacerbated an issue? Or created a new one?
    I cannot afford even the $350 axles from FCP so I'd be experimented with a cheaper brand I found. Worst case, I send them back and put the old ones in as they have a 10 year warranty.
    Not sure what to do yet.......

    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    Easy test for a spring seat - put a wrench on the nut on top of the shock - try to turn wrench. You will be able to turn the wrench if the spring seat is broken (and it maybe noisy). If you can only move the wrench less than 45 degrees and it springs back into place the seat is not torn.
    I actually did this initially but given the relatively low expense of swapping the parts and the age, I figured I'd go ahead and do it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •