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Slow down, you're playing "Parts Darts" now. Throwing parts at a problem, hoping one will hit bullseye.
Gets really expensive....not to mention frustrating.
If you're really stuck on this - see my post in your other thread - I would go for the MAF long before a cam sensor or crank sensor. I've replaced the MAF on all my P2 Volvos when they get upwards of 120,000 miles. They wear out. Cleaning does absolutely NO good. The fix for a bad MAF is a new MAF. They take like 5 minutes to change, including opening the hood.
"All points to a bad cam sensor"
"All points to low fuel pressure"
You've reached a couple of "firm" conclusions on this that have yet to be true...
MAF is common, MAF is simple, MAF is cheap.
I would take aim at that target first...
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
Hello back again.
Got a Bosch MAF, installed it, all went well so I decided to test the car again.
It remote started very well at 31F. At work, tried it again, it remote started well and drove very smoothly.
AFter twelve miles, I felt the car start to hesitate again. I managed to turn back but was just two miles from home when it gave up.
It won't start, just like previous times. I could hear it want to start but it won't. Got it towed home again.
Please what else should I try?
Thanks for you'all patience with me.
Last edited by Oka; 11-18-2019 at 07:28 PM. Reason: More clarification.
As a shop owner/tech I did not allow anyone to "Try" stuff that might fix a car. (unless i could keep it in stock or return it) I would not allow myself to rip off people and sell them stuff they did not need, for I saw that happen with my previous employers many times. I had my employees diagnose things and ONLY replace the parts that were really needed. I believed that was the only way I could stay in business (and sleep at night) for 38 years.
So my only advice is to diagnose the real problem and stop just replacing parts.
If your car fails after driving for x miles (or x time) - let it run for x time and try to duplicate the problem. And keep trying to duplicate the problem until you can detect a failure (with VIDA or whatever other methods you have available). And then replace the sensor or fuel pump or muffler bearing or left hand thread rod sleeve or slippery valve pan or whatever is causing your failure!
I think I am doing my best. I have posted lots of reports from VIDA in other post regarding the same issue.
I replaced the throttle unit. That was pricey, but after that, I am glad I did that since the car drives a whole lot better.
The other part I have replaced are spark plugs which it needed and the MAF. Way back I was asked to replace the MAF
since I replaced the throttle. The outside temperature sensors were not working anyway. I have checked fuel pressure at
the rail and at the fuel filter.
Forgot to mention, once, I got the IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL error while trying to start the car.
I believe I have always scanned the car after every failure and posted my results in other posts relating to the same issue.
Do I have to scan it again?
Thanks
Last edited by Oka; 11-18-2019 at 10:56 PM.
It sounds like you have an aftermarket remote starter setup? If so, I would disconnect that if possible, at least temporarily bypass it, and see if the problem changes.
PDX-Vancouver, USA
2005 XC70 140,000
"The outside temperature sensors were not working anyway."
Does anyone know if this can have an effect on driveability?
2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car
At the moment, starting the car is not an issue anymore. However, it won't start now since the hesitation and complete stalling won't make it start anymore. Both key and remote starter would start it when it is ready.
When I get to start the car, it will drive for some some 12-20 miles and start hesitating, then few miles, it will stall and won't start again. The starting sounds like an air or fuel issue. When I say "fuel", not lack of it but not getting into the system 'fast' enough for the car to start; same as for air system. Sometimes, it would want to start or start then stalls.
I don't know if the aftermarket would cause such symptoms.
Yes there are two sensors, I think the one that DOES NOT send a signal to the outside temp gauge is the one that reports to the ECU. And if it thinks it is 150 degrees outside when it is 32 - the mixture will be wrong and hard to start/run. Also the AC compressor will not run if below x degrees, and I have replace some (one of them, not both) to restore power to the compressor. (I'm pretty sure the outside air temp was correct in those cases)
The temperature readings are easily monitored with VIDA
I am sympathetic, sometimes problems are difficult to diagnose.
You should check fuel pressure after (or shortly before ) it fails - you could have a fuel pump that is not delivering enough pressure/volume after it gets hot. Many times I have taped a connected fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and driven the car (for as long as it takes to properly diagnose the car) Or a boost pressure gauge or voltmeter or what ever is needed to diagnose the car.
Yes, you should scan the car every time you have a problem. To see what codes (if any) come back.
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