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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    The cam sensor in that video is the early one used in the 1991-1998 cars. Have seen (and replaced) many bad ones that eventually prevent the car from starting. Usually a cam sensor code appears first. If cleared may take a while to come back, or the car may fail to start at some point afterward, so I learned to replace them BEFORE the car was towed in for a bad cam sensor.

    Also the plastic wiring harness connector falls apart -

    The 99+ cam position sensors are a different design, and I have never seen a bad one.
    Ok, thanks for the information.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    First off, I was mixing Camshaft Position Sensor with the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
    Both sound and look almost the same. My bad!

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    I am still trying to find out why the car still won't start after previous startings.
    The car worked well after replacing the Throttle unit. I must admit it runs smoother and is very responsive with the new Throttle; the cost is worth it. The car started responding with both the key and remote starter. Then it died.

    I replaced both outside temperature sensors. The dash temperature gauge started reading and the car started responding with both the key and remote starter. Then, it dies again.

    Now, trying to see if it's the Camshaft Position Sensor.
    https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...ensor-Location
    But one of them is too expensive to purchase for a test run since am not really sure it's the culprit. $430 is too much for a test.

    Trying too get it running before winter sets in and put on my studded rims/tires.

    Thanks

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

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    Oka, can you be more specific when you say "Then it died." and "Then, it dies again."?
    Will the car turnover and start after it dies?
    Are you using VIDA to troubleshoot your issues? If often will give you steps to follow to determine if a certain part, like the Camshaft Position Sensor, is faulty or if something else is the possible culprit. Even if you don't get a code, you can research in VIDA on Camshaft Position Sensor to get a list of symptoms for when its not operating corrrectly.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...osition-sensor

    I just saw this link. 1 through 6 of these symptoms, I have had (or noticed).
    Last edited by Oka; 11-15-2019 at 02:09 PM.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    Through all this - chasing fuel pressure and sensors, did you ever replace the MAF?

    Your symptoms sound more like MAF than anything else. "not enough fuel" was how this thread started...well, yeah...

    The ECU measures air going in by the MAF signal. It adds the amount of fuel proportional to the amount of air.

    So, low air flow reading from a bad MAF = not enough fuel going in. Erratic idle. Poor start when hot. Poor throttle response. All symptoms of a bad MAF.

    FCP Euro, IPD sell the MAF. I've even bought one on Amazon. You don't really need a genuine Volvo part, but you MUST get a genuine Bosch part. No off-shore junk.

    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6581...18108-31342362
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    I just very curious. What if, the new ETM from XeMODeX is faulty; it's not impossible.
    They are not opened on the weekend to call them. Am sure VIDA would have a way to test it.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    Stop guessing about what it "might" be.

    Go back and read all the responses to your musings and questions. Hoonk (and me) have given you some simple, real, things to check in this, and other, threads.

    Until you've done that (and my money is still on cracked or improperly installed intake pipe), all the musing, wondering, and posting, won't get you any closer to a running car.

    Get a mirror, get a flashlight, and check.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,420

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    my money is still on cracked or improperly installed intake pipe
    That or lack of fuel due to being out of gas or a fuel pump that's not working properly!

    (you start with the basics, and places someone has touched previously)

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    587

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    I just very curious. What if, the new ETM from XeMODeX is faulty; it's not impossible.
    They are not opened on the weekend to call them. Am sure VIDA would have a way to test it.
    In my defense about being "curious", since I don't know as much as you all so, my curiosity gets the best of me.
    In other many situations, it has resulted in solutions, from the car, computers to other areas I have sort help from forum members.


    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Stop guessing about what it "might" be.

    Go back and read all the responses to your musings and questions. Hoonk (and me) have given you some simple, real, things to check in this, and other, threads.

    Until you've done that (and my money is still on cracked or improperly installed intake pipe), all the musing, wondering, and posting, won't get you any closer to a running car.

    Get a mirror, get a flashlight, and check.
    On November 23, Sunday morning, I starter going through the posts. It's been time consuming to re-read all posts, make notes and gather information. Got them done though. Being busy with that and family dynamics does not help. Yep, so, am already on going through the posts. I have already the trouble shooting with all the information I have gotten.


    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    That or lack of fuel due to being out of gas or a fuel pump that's not working properly!

    (you start with the basics, and places someone has touched previously)
    With more than a quarter tank of gas, low gas issues would be ruled out. Fuel pump, that's on my list of things to troubleshoot.

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