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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Worcester, MA.
    Posts
    4

    Default Newbie 2007 XC V70 Owner:

    First time poster: I just bought my Second Volvo last week. My first one, a 1994 5 speed 850 lilí red wagon just got decommissioned by my mechanic at RE-VOLV in Oxford, MA. Rear strut broke from frame. Nothing left to weld it back due to advanced sub frame rust. I put 280k miles on her. Iíll miss my trusty olí steed. Any way, Nick at RE-VOLVE showed me a 2007 XCV70 with 160k miles for $5000. I took her home last Friday. Lots of technical and safety advances in those 13 years. So far Iím very happy with this upgrade.
    Only two small issues:
    1. Fog light bulbs are out, checked fuse, itís ok. Wondering if I should go Halogen or LED.

    2. Discovered spare key / door remote sewn into the front bottom of the drivers side seat. It isnít programmed. I tried the 5 times ignition switch technique. No luck so far.
    (I may be doing it wrong). Suggestions would be appreciated.

    Anyway, Iím extremely happy so far with Power, Handling and overall performance.

    Thanks for listening,

    Dana Lewis

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,792

    Default

    Congratulations on the new car!

    I still miss my 850 wagon...great car...mine was red, too...

    So, no idea on the key, sorry.

    I would stick with halogen fog light bulbs. They are common failures, but LED tends to cause faults because the current draw is different.

    Other things to start considering:

    1. Engine oil. Stick with an ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 synthetic.
    2. Check your PCV system. Be prepared to replace it. All of it.
    3. Check your angle gear fluid. Search the threads for how to fill properly. I modified mine to make it easier.
    4. Haldex fluid and filter. I would change both to see how itís doing. My car has the viscous coupling, but yours will have Haldex.

    Cheers,
    Astro
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    628

    Default

    Nice one. I have a 2007 as well.

    5. Review ALL the steering and suspension components. I replaced the struts (and hardware), lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, sway bar and end links. Huge improvement in ride and handling.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Worcester, MA.
    Posts
    4

    Default

    MacNoob. My mechanic changed out the oil and filter, did timing belt and both control arms.
    Asrto14, I ordered Halogens from FCP and MAHLE oil filters.
    "angel gear" fluid?
    Thanks for the tips.
    Dana

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,792

    Default

    Dana - your car has an ďAngle GearĒ or forward differential.

    It has gear oil in it. 75w90 synthetic. It can leak, which destroys the unit. Very expensive.

    Itís easy to overfill. Itís difficult to remove the old fluid.

    If your mechanic is doing the work, they should know.

    I modified mine, and while Iím not suggesting the modification in your case, the pictures may help you see what Iím talking about.

    http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...d-modification
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Worcester, MA.
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Aastro14:

    Wow!
    That's very useful information. I'll be discussing this with my Volvo mechanic right quick.
    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    613

    Default

    Do a drain and fill on your transmission. 3.2 quarts of Mobile 3306 transmission fluid or Toyota T-IV. I use the Toyota fluid, way cheaper than Mobil or Volvo ($20quart!!! Vs. $10 vs. Mobil and $6-7 for Toyota). It is all the same stuff. The first time do the drain and fill 4x. So the first time you will use 13 quarts in total. Drive it at least 5 miles between flushes or you can wait and do it 3 weekends in a row. If you can do an oil change you can do this. After that Do the drain and fill every $15k miles (3.2quarts). Don't bother paying for a "transmission flush"

    Top motor mount and lower front torque mount. Cheap and an easy DIY. No knowledge or skills required and just a few nuts/ bolt for each.

    They are almost gauranteed to be worn. I thought I had several problems that turned out to be related to those 2 mounts.

    1. I was having rough transmission shifts and though I might have a transmission issue. Replaced those mounts, gone, shifts smooth as silk.

    2. I had clunking going over bumps and rough roads. Thought it was front suspension. Replaced the end links and it was still there. Replaced those mounts, gone. The motor was rocking around in the mounts.

    Good luck!
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione, Black Leather 17k miles
    2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 200k miles
    2001 Honda Accord V6 SE - 82k miles - Steady reliable transport
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

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