Having successfully replace the head gasket on a 2001 V70 T5 for my older daughter, I figured it was time to try the same job on the same car for my next daughter, she's 2 years behind. However, this one is a 2007. There are a few changes Volvo (ford?) made that made the job easier, but one that made it considerably harder.
This is addition of a non spring loaded hub on the end of each cam in the 2007 rather than a single spring loaded hub on the exhaust cam of the 2001.
It's done, but before I close it up I want to solicit your all's opinion on how the timing was set. I did what I did based on a write up If found here (
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...c90-dual-cvvt/), the salient points cut and paste below...
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'First, have the crank in the correct position with the notch in the crank gear matching the bump in the oil pump housing. .
Exhaust cam: leave the screws that hold the gear to the VVT center loose. Push the VVT onto the cam. Install the center screw, and tighten slightly. turn the VVT unit counter-clockwise as far as it will go. Remove the center screw. Put the upper timing cover. Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws on the holes are at the limit position. Continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1 gear tooth before the marking on the upper timing cover. (That means 1 tooth counter-clockwise from the marking) The timing gear pulley should still be in the limit position in the mounting holes. Tighten the center screw in the VVT unit. to 120 NM (you MUST have the cams anchored with the cam tool to do this) Check that the VVT has not rotated when tightening the center bolt. Install the center plug (65 NM). Turn the VVT unit clockwise to the limit position. turn the timing gear pulley so that the markings match the upper timing cover. tighten the bolts on the VVT unit to the exhaust cam gear. (10 NM)
Intake Cam: same start, loose screws on the gear to VVT. press the VVT unit and gear pulley onto the cam. Install the center screw and tighten slightly. Turn the VVT unit counter-clockwise as far as it will go. Remove the center screw. position the upper timing cover. Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws at the oval mounting holes are at the limit. Continue turning clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1.5 gear teeth clockwise of the marking on the timing gear cover. The VVT should still be in the limit position in the mounting holes in the gear. Tighten the center screw in the VVT unit and the cover cap (same torque). Don't let the VVT unit rotate while tightening. Turn the vVT unit clockwise to the limit position. Turn the timing gear pulley so that the marking matches the timing gear cover."
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So here's how it went down, it was more of less the same on both cams. I set the crank so the marks are lined, up. I have a really cool endoscope so I have no doubt the crank is aligned correctly and I checked it periodically to make sure it didn't move. I also have the cam locker tool on the drivers side end of the cam so they weren't moving, all this was done with the valve cover installed and torqued to spec (also using the special, the two big ass wing nuts to compress it after which I installed the 24 bolts to 7 NM).
I loosed the 3 bolts holding the hub to the gear (I never removed the hub from the cam so I ignored all the text about installing onto the cam). I move the hub as far Counter Clockwise as it would go, then I turned the gear so the bolts holding to pully to the hub were at their limit. Here's where things started to fall apart. At that point I was already (exactly) 1 tooth PAST the mark on the timing cover (on the exhaust cam, 1.5 past intake), there was no way to get it 1 tooth BEFORE at that point without turning the cam which I would not do, and couldn't do as it was locked down.
Not sure what do to at this point I had no choice but to assume a typo. I rolled the gear back so that the timing mark on the gear and the timing cover lined up with the mark on the gear and locked down the three bolts that hold the gear to the hub. I did this on both intake and exhaust, rotated the engine by hand 2 twice (by turning the crank pully) and all stayed lined up and it moved smooth with no interference.
I hope I did it right and that there is just a typo there. Or maybe that play is just so the computer can make minute adjustments.
on the 2001, the spring loaded hub made sense to me, but these free floating hubs... it's like 15-20 degrees... I just don't understand the design and so I don't know if I did it right. I moved forward on the job, I reconnected the airbox to the turbo, the drivers side cam sensors, but time is running out before I have to torque down that nut on the crank and seal it up and I'd love some feedback that I did it right. Noone I know knows and I can't find a good you tube or write up besides the one I quoted.
Thanks for your input, in advance,
drGian
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