Drivers side rear lights.

[Geoff69a1]

Thanks for the clarification Hoonk,I am not unfamiliar with wiring diagrams but this one sure had me beat. Yes,I did mean the upper set and I replaced the defective bulb,or tried to.It now turns out that there is some melting damage to the cluster itself making it impossible for the bulbholder to stay in place properly.I am going to pick up a replacement later and will report back on result.I also found some of the wires going into the harness with damaged insulation which I will deal with before switching on On another note this will be my last Volvo,too deep a money pit.I drove my Subaru for years and had to do nothing but routine timing belt replacement and though I love the car itself there is way too much unnecessary technology in it for my taste(or pocket) and I'm sick of the constant niggles. I will let you know how I get on .

[hoonk]

Yes,I did mean the upper set and I replaced the defective bulb,or tried to.It now turns out that there is some melting damage to the cluster itself

love the car itself there is way too much unnecessary technology in it for my taste

The heat from the brake light bulbs melts the sockets and the upper tail lamps. Unfortunately the permanent solution is usually a new upper tail lamp.

Your original question was about your position lamp warning - are the parking lights still not working in the LOWER tail lamps?

As far as unnecessary technology you will find that ALL cars now have CAN bus systems and multiple control units (computers). They are needed to reduce the number of wires used and control all of the safety systems.

[Geoff69a1]

Have replaced upper unit and reinsulated suspect wiring,all put back together neat and tidy but no joy.Nothing on that side is working except the turn signal.Tomorrow I will try to trace the wiring back through the various fuse boxes but as I said earlier,I have power to the three relevant fuses in the rear fuse box. Looks as if I may have to go down to the local European expert and give him the key to my bank account.

[nickbw]

The chief cause of your inability to fault trace the problem is your attitude. I have come accreoss something very similar many times over the years as others on this site. Yes the bulbs come in tailor made holders colour coded for the job even big hands can swap them but the key is noting orintation of holer on removal and then repeating process in revers for fitting. There is only a very small ark of movement necessary,perhaps 10 degrees but once you take a negative combative attitude with the car you will just break stuff. Mine has lasted 18+ years and been taken apart and put back together multiple times these lights are a hell of a lot more complicated than the average car period. Subaru is nothing special compared to Volvo.

[Geoff69a1]

Thank you Nickbw for your reply.First off, I have no problem getting the bulb holders in and out now that I have replaced the taillght section,some thing that should not have been necessary with a bit of thought at the design stage.Which brings me to my second point which is that we are talking lights here,they don't need to be controlled by a computer,they need to be easily accessible and easy to fix by the owner without having to go to some stealer and drop two or three hundred dollars for some computer to tell him the lights are out or the bulb has blown.Regarding Subarus you are right they are nothing like Volvos,Mine was 19 years old and I had to spend less money on it in that time than I have had to spend on my Volvo in just the last 18 months which is probably why there are ten times more Subarus on the road than Volvos. I have owned many cars and have been a lifelong Volvo fan but it is beginning to wear a bit thin. However,all this is not solving my problem which is that have nothing except direction indicators working on that side at the rear.Suggestions as to why would be welcome and as for taking it to a dealer,the nearest one to me is 260 miles away.

[Astro14]

Geoff - first, when folks recommend that you use VIDA/Dice, you should listen. Your code reader, despite its claims, doesn’t cover even a fraction of what VIDA does. You may have a UEM, CEM, or REM problem. Only VIDA would know.

My VIDA set-up, including buying a host laptop on eBay, and an SSD to help with its durability in the garage, was under $300. That is not expensive, when compared with your long drive to the dealership, or what you spent on the code reader that doesn’t actually work.

Next, when you replaced the “upper unit”, did you use new? Volvo? Counterfeit? Used? In general, the look-alike parts do not work. Genuine Volvo only for electrical.

Finally, you’re long on complaints and short on details.

If readers have to wade through all of your “Volvo sucks but Subaru’s are great” and “I’m fed up” statements
to find details on your problem and actions, then you’ve placed the burden on the reader.

If you want help, make it easy on the reader, not hard, and not insulting to the owners of Volvo’s.

My wife’s XC has 249,000 miles on it, runs flawlessly, and has been a great car. I maintain three older Volvo’s, and they all work flawlessly.

So, obviously, I don’t share your opinion.

In my larger sample size, of three, all older than yours, it’s been my experience that Volvo builds a decent car, and competent mechanics, able to service them, exist.

[Xheart]

My wife’s XC has 249,000 miles on it, runs flawlessly, and has been a great car. I maintain three older Volvo’s, and they all work flawlessly.

So, obviously, I don’t share your opinion.

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