Geoff - first, when folks recommend that you use VIDA/Dice, you should listen. Your code reader, despite its claims, doesn’t cover even a fraction of what VIDA does. You may have a UEM, CEM, or REM problem. Only VIDA would know.
My VIDA set-up, including buying a host laptop on eBay, and an SSD to help with its durability in the garage, was under $300. That is not expensive, when compared with your long drive to the dealership, or what you spent on the code reader that doesn’t actually work.
Next, when you replaced the “upper unit”, did you use new? Volvo? Counterfeit? Used? In general, the look-alike parts do not work. Genuine Volvo only for electrical.
Finally, you’re long on complaints and short on details.
If readers have to wade through all of your “Volvo sucks but Subaru’s are great” and “I’m fed up” statements
to find details on your problem and actions, then you’ve placed the burden on the reader.
If you want help, make it easy on the reader, not hard, and not insulting to the owners of Volvo’s.
My wife’s XC has 249,000 miles on it, runs flawlessly, and has been a great car. I maintain three older Volvo’s, and they all work flawlessly.
So, obviously, I don’t share your opinion.
In my larger sample size, of three, all older than yours, it’s been my experience that Volvo builds a decent car, and competent mechanics, able to service them, exist.
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
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