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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

    Default cam seal oil leak arter rebuild

    I just wrapped up the rebuild from the head up of my 2007 Volvo v70 xc. It runs great, the turbo kicks in and it't the fastest xc I've ever had I'm very proud butI have just one problem.

    I'm leaking a reasonable about of oil (well, unreasonable arguably) from the CVVT hub on the exhaust. I'm all but certain the seal is not seated properly.

    This engine has CVVT on the intake and exhaust cams. I replaced all 4 cam seals as part of this job. My question is do I need to take the entire valve cover off, or is there any way I can setup the engine so I can attach the cam locking tool, take off the cam bolt cover, take off the CVVT hub and reach in there and line up the seal?

    Or so I need to remove the valve cover and all that that entails, clean off old gasket etc..

    I already missed one of these seals when I was putting her back together and had to redo this, I'm just a little burned out; I've been working on this for months on and off and I'm so close to the finish line.

    Ahe she runs so well!! But I can have all this oil leaking out..
    Last edited by drgian; 09-05-2019 at 06:27 PM. Reason: typos
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    Attach the locking tool, remove the hub cap and undo the bolt. No need to pull the valve cover.

    You may need to clear up some space for the ratchet/breaker bar. For me it was enough to raise the cable going to ECM/TCM and move it aside.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

    Default

    This is totally great news, thank you. I'm doing this tomorrow and I was literally just thinking there was no point in tryint to fix this without removing the valve cover.

    I actually have plenty of room over there if I remove the rad and the power steering bottles and that allows me to move the cables up and out of the way to get the breaker bar in there.


    One question, once the gear is disconnected from the cam, how to do ensure it's back to the same spot so the timing marks on the gear are accurate. I will mark it all up and take pics as I usually do out of an abundance of caution, but there must be a way to ensure the gear is on the cam properly.

    thanks for the comeback, let me know how to ensure I don't render the cam untimable.

    Thanks,

    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...412868#p412868

    Or download VIDA, it has the instructions. If you have DiCE, you may check CVVT hub angles, desired vs actual. I was able to align one at 1 degree, another at nearly zero.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

    Default

    So here is where I wound up. I tried to access the PDF referenced above (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...412868#p412868) but I get this message

    -----
    "IMPORTANT NOTE! REVISED DOCUMENT ATTACHED

    CVVT Hub Setting Guide - Rev2.pdf
    The earlier revision misstated some of the rear cam slot alignment details on Page 2 which have now been corrected in Rev.2.
    You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
    -------

    So I can't access this doc, maybe someone can help me?

    I was able to find a really good write up that after I implemented, after which my car (2008 v70 xc T5 2.5) was kicking all sorts of ass it pickup like I've never experienced in a turbo v70. This write up was here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...c90-dual-cvvt/

    Everything was awesome, except the oil leak. Turns out both my cam seals behind the vvt hubs were not pushed in all the way. Using the article as a baseline, I took off the cam hubs, pushed the seals in so they were seated properly and I was very excited. put everything back together and now it won't start at all. It turns, seems to have plenty of battery (I have it on a 2A charge overnight now) but there is no action at all. No backfire, no nothing at all. no codes at all either.

    This car has 245K mile on, I replaced the head gasket and all other seals and whatnot. The wiring to the coil packs has lots of exposed wires and at one point I had a short. I was really surprised to find a blown fuse (labeled coil packs) and once I replaced that I was back in business. But all fuses are fine now.

    At any rate, here's where are we are now. I went back out today and rechecked the timing and it all looked perfect. So I started with the basics, spark and gas.

    I'm getting a good spark out of 3 of the 5 cylinders and none from the other two. I swapped the plugs so that's not it, but I didn't switch around the packs to see if that's what it is. I also pressed down the shrader valvle while my wife was turning the key and we certainly have fuel pressure.


    So I'm pretty much lost. If I had no spark at all I feel like I'd know where to start. But WTF? 3 cylinders, at least I'd expect some backfiring or sputtering or something, but I don't get any indication of combustion at all.

    My plan (if you can call it that), is to get new plugs, new coil packs, new battery and hope for the best? I haven't switched #5, that sparks, with #1 that doesn't and try to nail down if it's the coil pack or the wiring, but I don't know if it even matters. With perfect timing, fuel and spark on 3 cylinders I expect something, some sort of backfire, sputter, something.

    Can anyone tell me where to look, where to start?

    Thanks,


    drGian
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    123

    Default

    update: I was able to find the referenced PDF and I don't know how I managed to remove both hubs and get this thing running in the first place. I figure there is a 50% chance that the cams were respectively aligned properly, I didn't understand that the slot at the drivers side of the cam were different (one is slightly above the centerline and one is slightly below). So I tore the whole thing down and I'm going through step by step based on those very good .pdf instructions. I'm hoping that resolves my issues.

    I still have no clue why a timing issue would cause 3 plugs to fire and 2 not to. But with this latest tear down I'm replacing the timing belt (as it's been covered with oil for 3 weeks now) and I'm just going to buy 5 new coil packs and 5 new plugs. And then I can rule that out. I for the plugs that are not firing I need to switch the coil packs to see if those two are blown or if there is a wiring problem somewhere. I'm thinking though if it were a sensor somewhere I would NO spark, not 3 out of 5.

    If after all this it still won't start I think I'll look at the crank sensor (even though I don't where that is, but I suspect it's also had oil poured all over it). If that doesn't do it and I don't get any other ideas from this forum I'm just going to take it to the shop with my tail between my legs.
    current lineup: 2001 Volvo v70 2.4 Turbo, 2014 Ford Flex AWD, 3.5 V6 Turbo, 2017 F-150 3.5 V6 Turbo

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    115

    Default

    A good chance the vvt is the leaker or soon will be with 245k. But what do I know,mine is running like a top.

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