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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    I would add HFM, external ATF cooler and Magnefine filter or some other reputable magnetic inline filter first. Maybe flush it once again, now with Toyota Type-IV or Idemitsu Type-TLS.
    Thanks for the advice Vtl,but do you think I should flush or d&f. I'm asking this because of the inside non changeable filter clogging more if debris are caught with the flush and not be released?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanaleksov View Post
    Thanks for the advice Vtl,but do you think I should flush or d&f. I'm asking this because of the inside non changeable filter clogging more if debris are caught with the flush and not be released?
    Whatever you do, internal filter can't unclog once it's clogged. Clogged filter equals to loss of pressure and death of transmission. You notice it is clogged when the car drops out of gear and can't move

    Do whatever is simpler, you won't get extra clean ATF on a flush machine using same amount of ATF, because of how the internal ATF flow is organized (only a part of it is directed to the cooler, the rest is still mixing with ATF in sump and in torque converter).
    Last edited by vtl; 07-25-2019 at 05:27 PM.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    You've mentioned that B4 cap was not replaced. Erratic problems around third gear (to third gear and from third gear) can be attributed to failing B4 piston cap. I would replace it. In my 02 V70 it was bad, you could tell the piston pin was banging against it a lot.

    Also B4 pin itself can become too short. B4 band wears out, the piston travel increases and it can leave the tolerance limit of the TCM. The way to fix it cheap is to weld a bit of metal on tip of the pin. I did that - the +0.5 mm mod, however didn't have enough motivation to install modified pin into transmission. At 250k miles it shifts nearly perfect and barely irritates me.






    Work above is doable with a simple MMA/arc welder, stainless steel electrodes and a shop grinder.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  4. #34

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    Thanks for the illustrations vtl.
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...50-51-30751262
    I suppose this is the whole b4 update kit,is this kit good enough or I should order from someplace else.I will order it,along with the HFM lubegard. I'll measure the pin thanks for the guide.the pin is not included in this kit from fcp,do u know another better option, or I'm good with this fcp kit?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    That’s the kit. All you need to replace the servo cover.

    Now, you WILL need a good set of snap ring pliers to install it. Installation isn’t easy, you lever off another point on the transmission (I installed a bolt) to compress the cover into the housing against the servo spring, and while it’s pressed in, install the snap ring.

    It takes some force to compress the spring and cover.

    Be certain that snap ring is fully seated.

    Otherwise, on your first drive, you’ll hear a “bang” when it shifts into 3rd...and the car won’t move any more...

    But at least you’ll be able to follow the fluid trail back along the street to find your servo...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    C-clamp makes it easier to hold the cover in place: the threaded rod pushes the cover (may need to cut and remove the lever), the clamp pushes against tie rod boot (put some wood to protect the boot).

    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    Very clever - that C-clamp is the third hand I was desperately needing...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #38

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    Thanks guys, I ordered the HFM lubegard and b4 servo kit,but they'll arrive in one month time (f.....g communist country). Astro made me laugh about the "bang" in 3Rd gear,and the atf trail hahahaa "priceless".(thanks for the illustrated advice astro and vtl). Yesterday I got my hands bloody, and the mosquitoes got my legs bloody, and I just manage to put the magnefine filter on the return line...I struggled with the atf cooler (bumper on the car) and didn't fit in. The pipes were given me a headache and couldn't fitt in tight place. I need to cut them and twist them and they are metal pipes,it's a GM oil coller (I have it in my garage from my beloved C20XE red top engine) omg I'm all in wounds,and just manage to putt one atf filter in place :-)
    Last edited by dejanaleksov; 07-29-2019 at 01:00 AM.

  9. #39

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    Guys what do u think about bypassing the factory cooler/heater and go only with the external atf cooler...more hot weather in my region. How the other manufacturers who drive this aisin box managed to control the heat. Is it the same way as volvo's design with a built-in tank in the engine radiator(looks more like heater than cooler to me). Yesterday I drove the car after installing the magnefine filter,and one D&F,and after 30 min driving on 35+c I got the same jerking and pinging like ringing sound coming from under the car,not like front of the car or gearbox.so got under the car, and the only thing the is ringing when I move it with my hands left and right was the awd propeller shaft,the first section of the awd shaft was ringing when I put centrifugal force left or right on the shaft...the shaft coming out of the angle gear to the centar bearing was having a play and rings like pinging on full left and rings then full right and rings again? Its like the same sound when I drove it,but in a much faster rate sequence? Any thoughts

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    +35 is what is a typical summer in *northern* parts of US. In such a weather I get about 90C for the ATF temperature on highway speeds (120-140 km/h) and towing lots of kgs.

    What you describe is an almost stripped collar gear that connects transmission to bevel gear. Splines on the bevel gear's shaft can be bad too, but I know they restore the splines in Germany, Poland, Belarus and Lithuania.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

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