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Thread: PCV kits?

  1. #11
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    South West Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    I included oil sump service during complete PCV -- a 100% PCV success. Laborious but minor cost of seal.
    The MPG is up from 13.2 to 16.6.

    Would a seafoam treatment before PCV an alternate to oil sump service?
    I think the oil sump service is good idea.

  2. #12
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    Dec 2010
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    South West Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    It helps me to count the notches on the old belt between the timing marks before I remove the belt. Then when you put the new belt on, count to make sure you've got the same number of notches between the marks. This can avoid the problem of being "one notch off."
    Will do. Thank you for that suggestion. I've read about the one tooth off. I'm gaining some confidence. There's always the thought that it will never run again.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Boston, MA
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    While the old belt is still in place, mark the belt and all 3 pulleys with white fluid correct. Transfer marks to a new belt, install it. Paper clips will help to hold the belt on cam pulleys. This way it's impossible to miss the notch.

    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  4. #14
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    South West Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    While the old belt is still in place, mark the belt and all 3 pulleys with white fluid correct. Transfer marks to a new belt, install it. Paper clips will help to hold the belt on cam pulleys. This way it's impossible to miss the notch.

    Did you pull the motor mount bolt and lift the motor to get to the intake pulley? Thank you for the pic.

  5. #15
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by olevolvo View Post
    Did you pull the motor mount bolt and lift the motor to get to the intake pulley?
    Uhm... No. Why?
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  6. #16
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    Feb 2013
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    Oh, I see... You are going to do the cam seals. Do they leak? If not, don't touch them. Some oil traces can be there due to worn VVT hubs, but cam seals leak a lot.

    Greasy hub:



    Dry seal:



    No problems with intake hub. Exhaust is more difficult. You may need a low profile torx bit and/or torque wrench to get to exhaust hub. Removing ECM/TCM wiring also helps to get some extra space:



    Also exhaust seal hardens a lot and it was a total PITA to take it out in that crimped space, I was full of fears to scratch the head by the aand effectively toss it to the bin.

    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    106

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    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    Oh, I see... You are going to do the cam seals. Do they leak? If not, don't touch them. Some oil traces can be there due to worn VVT hubs, but cam seals leak a lot.

    Greasy hub:



    Dry seal:



    No problems with intake hub. Exhaust is more difficult. You may need a low profile torx bit and/or torque wrench to get to exhaust hub. Removing ECM/TCM wiring also helps to get some extra space:



    Also exhaust seal hardens a lot and it was a total PITA to take it out in that crimped space, I was full of fears to scratch the head by the aand effectively toss it to the bin.


    I meant to get to the exhaust. There was a lot of oil coming from one, If not all the seals. Figured I'd pull both cam pulleys and inspect/replace ones needed. Very possible the crank seal is puking too. Thanks again for the pics and advice.

  8. #18
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    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
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    106

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    Homemade steel cam lock tool does not hold. Waiting on the manufacured tool. I noticed about a 1/4" of in and out play on the exhaust vvt hub. Thoughts? Thank you.

  9. #19
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    Dec 2010
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    South West Michigan
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    Vvt hub was blown out. No in and out movement with the new one. I suspect that's the biggest part of the gusher I had going on. With 275,000 miles, I've got all the seals. Just gonna be careful and replace them. Hub was pricey. 325.00 but necessary. Cam lock tool ($55.00) worked well. Home made welded ones are a waste of time and effort.

  10. #20
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    Dec 2010
    Location
    South West Michigan
    Posts
    106

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    Pcv kit all replaced, valve seals, crank seal, exhaust vvt hub. Installing the main seal required mangling the first one. Second one in lieu of the volvo main seal installer I used a 1" o.d.pvc pipe. Added a few wraps of duct tape to spread the inner lip f the seal beyond the step on the shaft. Greased it to slide off the duct tape and pushed it in with a paint roller skin that slide over the 1" pvc.

    Only other tip would be to keep the timing belt on and with a he cam lock tool together when removing the t55 cam bolts. The $50.00 cheap cam lock tool is a one time. Especially if the t55s were over torqued.

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