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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2

    Default “No Oil Pressure-Stop Safely” message.

    Hi All,
    While driving today, I got this message “No Oil Pressure Stop Safely” I pulled over, checked the oil. Plenty of oil. 190K on the Odometer. Tune up done at 172. Suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Forgot to say, she’s an 02

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    500

    Default

    You got a plugged up oil pick up screen, don't think about driving it until you drop the sump (oil pan) and clean it out, drive it and it will need an engine, more expensive remedy.
    Last edited by AKAMick; 04-17-2019 at 04:47 PM.
    Current fleet: Couple of worthless old clapped out Volvo XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    368

    Default

    Oil volume and oil pressure are two completely different requirements. You can have your 7 qts. of oil sitting in the oil pan and the level will be right on the dipstick. But if the oil pump is not pumping oil into the bearings at a sufficient pressure, metal-on-metal friction will destroy the engine very rapidly. When Volvo console says "Stop engine safely"....it means get over to the side of the road ASAP and shut down....call a tow truck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I had this recently, fortunately I was just pulling into my house. After I verified the level and it cooled down I tried again and the light didn't come back. Circumstances forced a couple of days of nervous commuting with no light on until I could change the oil. I found quite a bit of carbon gritty stuff in the oil and filter housing. No warning so far in the 50 or so miles since the oil change. Trying to figure my next move, I'm going to change the oil again in a few hundred miles and see if that tells me anything. Has anyone done any sort of flush with success ? Or am I being far too casual and I need to stop driving and drop the pan ASAP ?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    500

    Default

    Drop the pan or buy another engine as a spare for when yours self destructs because the oil pickup plugged up completely. You will find the PCV channel is plugged up too, the operation is easy, there is no magic in a bottle as a substitute for a good clean out of the pan.
    Last edited by AKAMick; 04-30-2019 at 07:51 AM.
    Current fleet: Couple of worthless old clapped out Volvo XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks, you are right, having thought about it trying to do a flush offer no peace of mind. However as no good deed goes unpunished I have a more questions.

    I read somewhere about some rubber o-rings for the oil pump that are part of the pan, seems silly not to replace these. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there ?

    Have you got any favorite DIY's to link to ? Parts lists ?

    Thanks again

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    500

    Default

    The pan requires O rings for the pump end and the oil cooler as well as thin film of anaerobic sealant such as "Hylomar" or the Volvo brand, the O rings can be easily misaligned on the filter end during fit up which will cause a good leak, the long transmission end bolts need close attention in fitting correctly. That being said i have dropped the pan and used only fresh sealant reusing the O rings, While in there clean out the square PCV channel in the pan and block, Brake clean will work well for this. Plenty of bolts hold the pan on, no high torque required for fastening up. Easy job, no worries.
    Last edited by AKAMick; 04-30-2019 at 11:28 AM.
    Current fleet: Couple of worthless old clapped out Volvo XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thank you !!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I read a DIY, any idea why they say ramps only not jack and jack stands ?

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