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  1. #11

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    Walmart Super Tech and Amazons new syn oil are just fine as well, just get the proper weight.
    Project Farm on youtube does tests on these oils if you have any doubts......

    My 02 had 111k miles when I bought it - PCV was already a disaster and had to clean/replace parts.
    Been running synthetic ever since with zero issues.
    I'm at 200k miles now.....

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4

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    No, but....
    My experience is, after a garage replaced my flame trap, I switched to full synthetic. 2 years later, the throttle actuator was fouled with oil and went into limp mode due to a clogged port between flame trap and the oil pan. So, I believe if there is crud build up in your oil system, synthetic may loosen it up and clog flame trap, pressurize crank case and create leaks from front or rear seals.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,817

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    Quote Originally Posted by utc15 View Post
    No, but....
    My experience is, after a garage replaced my flame trap, I switched to full synthetic. 2 years later, the throttle actuator was fouled with oil and went into limp mode due to a clogged port between flame trap and the oil pan. So, I believe if there is crud build up in your oil system, synthetic may loosen it up and clog flame trap, pressurize crank case and create leaks from front or rear seals.
    Your issue sounds like it has more to do with poor service than synthetic oil.

    That port should have been cleaned when the flame trap was replaced the first time. It gets clogged with carbon as the result of oil vapor moving through it, but it takes a long time. That port took over 150,000 miles to get clogged up on my cars (it was still clean at 75,000 on the 2001 T5, for example).

    If yours clogged up in two years, it's because it wasn't cleaned when the PCV work was first done. It's easy to overlook, hard to do properly, and because vapor is moving through it, not liquid oil, no gunk from the engine is being added, so a good oil (synthetic) will prevent it clogging, not add to the clogging.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Your issue sounds like it has more to do with poor service than synthetic oil.

    That port should have been cleaned when the flame trap was replaced the first time. It gets clogged with carbon as the result of oil vapor moving through it, but it takes a long time. That port took over 150,000 miles to get clogged up on my cars (it was still clean at 75,000 on the 2001 T5, for example).

    If yours clogged up in two years, it's because it wasn't cleaned when the PCV work was first done. It's easy to overlook, hard to do properly, and because vapor is moving through it, not liquid oil, no gunk from the engine is being added, so a good oil (synthetic) will prevent it clogging, not add to the clogging.
    I went to a popular volvo indie but I have to agree. The trap was clogged. Popped the dipstick out. The oil pan wasnt dropped and cleaned the first time, but it was the second time. Fcp euro has a video where they just sell a new pan and advise against cleaning the old one. It isnt just a pan. The oil pan is very sophisticated compared to what I have seen on other cars. If there is build up of crud in the pan, synthetic could loosen it and move it back into the ports.

    I believe that's what happened to me.
    Last edited by utc15; 11-17-2019 at 03:58 PM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,127

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    Quote Originally Posted by utc15 View Post
    I went to a popular volvo indie but I have to agree. The trap was clogged. Popped the dipstick out. The oil pan wasnt dropped and cleaned the first time, but it was the second time. Fcp euro has a video where they just sell a new pan and advise against cleaning the old one. It isnt just a pan. The oil pan is very sophisticated compared to what I have seen on other cars. If there is build up of crud in the pan, synthetic could loosen it and move it back into the ports.

    I believe that's what happened to me.
    Oil pan is a pan.

    Years of Castrol:



    1.5-2 hours of cleaning in DMSO:


    DMSO was like $38. New pan at FCP is $469.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    4

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    First, thanks for the photos but that is no ordinary oil pan!

    Second, you demonstrate my point perfectly. After the first flame trap replacement, which was clogged, the mechanic told me he didn't need to drop oil pan because he was able to clear the port. I won't call a man I have gladly done business with for twenty years a liar, but I will concede that he may have mistakenly thought he cleared it. Lord knows, we all make mistakes!


    However, if that amount of crud in your photo were to loosened up after using synthetic, The sludge could be entrained in the air as it is vented. If the port is , let's say 8 " long and you ram a twelve inch rod through it, it should be safe to say the port is clear. (I don't anything about the port, I'm just guessing at how a mechanic would clear it). Why bother cleaning the pan if you did remove it to attack this port from both ends if that crud has no chance of re-clogging the port? That just adds to the labor.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,127

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    This varnish is from 7 years of base oil used by Volvo dealer and 7 years of Amsoil Signature and Red Line used by me. Synthetic oil can't wash the varnish, even ester-based one. I even helped it a few times with SeaFoam and BF109, which washed out the rear main seal, but did not do much to varnish

    Crud has no other way to escape than through oil drain hole during regular oil change or through oil pickup tube, followed by oil pump and oil filter. It does not fly in the air All that gritty dirt you see in oil trap is a burnt off base oil. 2.5T is too hot for base oil.

    Oil drainage passage from PCV separator still can be cleaned with a compressed air in most cases. I did that using shop vac's exhaust and did hear oil bubbling inside the pan. The passage was free when the pan had been dropped 7 years later.

    Really the only reason of why the pan was dropped is replacing 14 years old oil O-rings. Even the O-rings were fine and still soft. The pan looked sort of ugly, but everything was functional.

    All said above does not say turbo-engine owner should use base of hydrocracked oil and ignore a proper and regular PCV maintenance
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    219

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Synthetic is better for keeping the turbo and PCV clean. You really want an oil that is rated A3/B4.

    You probably still need to do the PCV system.
    This right hurr.

    I've always changed over my cars (always high mileage too) to synthetic. A3/B4 for the P2s, full synthetic.

    If it leaks when you run it on synthetic, you do what you do with any leak, you fix it. A leak is a leak is a leak.

    My 110K P2 turbo was run on conventional (Volvo specified) Castrol until i got it, I changed to Mobil 1 full synth the day after buying it and it's been fine since. One MAJOR benefit to me was that the previous owner had an 80 mile r/t commute so he always ran the car fully hot. The PCV/drain was very clean when I changed it.

    I change my oil ever 12000-15000 miles (with the turbo, I am unwilling to go longer than that even if the oil can handle it - always good to have some margin) and the car is happy as can be. I'm at little over 170K miles now.

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