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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    94

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    Thanks VTL.
    This is an '01, so its not a Haldex. The holes on mine are unthreaded. Unless I can find a bolt that might bite enough in the unthreaded hole to give me some help.
    That might be my next best option.

    gg

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary g View Post
    Thanks VTL.
    This is an '01, so its not a Haldex. The holes on mine are unthreaded. Unless I can find a bolt that might bite enough in the unthreaded hole to give me some help.
    That might be my next best option.

    gg
    I may be wrong, but the VC's flange still should have these threaded holes too. I'm asking a friend with V70XC...
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    The friend said he used a cold chisel to separate it.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    94

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    Yeesh.
    Any chance of damaging the angle gear like that?
    Desperate times call for desperate measures I guess. I'll give it a shot.
    Thanks
    gg

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

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    Just thinking off the top of my head. I had to mess around with some long bolts to separate a rear wheel bearing. If the hole you're putting the bolt thru isn't threaded, but you place the bolt thru the hole and then thread a nut on either side of the bolt and tighten them up against the hole, and then turn the bolt while holding one of the nuts with a wrench, will it deliver the pressure you're looking for? Come to think of it, maybe you'd only need one nut?
    Apologies if this is confusing or doesn't apply to your situation.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    94

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    Im not surw how that would work since i can only get at one side of the unthreaded hole.
    I think i will have to admit defeat on this. Tried heating/banging several times and cranking on the shaft with a pipe wrench but no movement in the front
    I put everying back together withiut the front flange bolts and will try to drive it around the block a bit. May e that will break it loose. I think it is pretty safe since i have a newish bearing support to keep the shaft from falling (it was only the top of the support that rotted - the ring that hold the bearing directly)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,442

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    Use the flanges that come off the front side of the coupling and 2 of the bolts. Put a 3rd longer bolt through the unthreaded hole, and mount the flange and 2 bolts so as to press the 3rd bolt through the unthreaded hole. Do one in each hole if you're being extra careful. Tighten the bolts and the joint will press out.
    Last edited by sjonnie; 11-16-2018 at 10:26 AM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    94

    Default

    Interesting idea.
    By "flanges", do you mean the crescent-shaped washers between the allen-head bolts and the drive-shaft CV joint?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,442

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary g View Post
    Interesting idea.
    By "flanges", do you mean the crescent-shaped washers between the allen-head bolts and the drive-shaft CV joint?
    Yeah, part number 14a in the diagram below

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    9

    Default

    That's interesting!

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