2005 XC70 Engine Swap - $400 car purchase

**dmackey** · 04-21-2017, 06:42 PM

Posted several weeks ago and got busy, so the seller kept dropping his price until it was too good to refuse - I'm sure you've heard that before. 2005 Volvo XC70 with 180K on the clock and looks like the PCV system plugged and it blew out an oil seal. Oil coats the passenger side of the engine bay and is a mess. The car came with a replacement motor from a reputable yard and the seller was in over his head on this project. I happened to know him through another person and he's a stand up guy, so for $400, why not. Replacement motor already has new waterpump, idlers and timing belt installed, but not timed since they did not have the cam locking tool. Previous owner gave up since he did not have air tools or and engine lift and the indoor space the car occupied became too valuable.

Already purchased the emission items and radiator hoses since I'd rather drop the old motor and install these with the replacement motor. Holding off on the needed front end suspension items that are also needed, but want to confirm the engine install before purchasing those items.

Car is for my son to drive now that he has his license and I already have a 2004 XC70 with 185K and love the car and love to tinker.

Now some pics.

**dmackey** · 04-21-2017, 06:44 PM

PCV can was clogged and there was burnt oil debris on the piston in addition to the valves having contacted the pistons, all 10 intake valves were stuck open.

I'll plug away and upload pics as I go along.

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**hoonk** · 04-22-2017, 08:44 AM

Originally Posted by dmackey

valves having contacted the pistons,

If the belt came off and bent the valves, why is the engine being replaced? Why not just do a valve job? (and PCV)

**dmackey** · 04-22-2017, 01:46 PM

Originally Posted by hoonk

If the belt came off and bent the valves, why is the engine being replaced? Why not just do a valve job? (and PCV)

Cams didn't look good and pistons had 1/8" of flakey carbon built up on them. There was no way I wanted to trust the bottom end of this motor based on what the top end looked like. I've also read the compression starts heading south at 250K, which isn't that far way. Since a lower mileage motor came with the car, it seemed like an easy decision. This motor failed from multiple issues and was not worth saving.

Replacing the bent valves and a valve job would have just run the cost up over the cost of dropping in the good motor is came with.

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**hoonk** · 04-22-2017, 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by dmackey

Replacing the bent valves and a valve job would have just run the cost up over the cost of dropping in the good motor is came with.

Yes the machine shop bill would be more than the cost of the car

**dmackey** · 04-23-2017, 07:53 PM

Grabbed my engine crane and almost have everything ready to drop. I decided to remove the front suspension before dropping the subframe since I've ordered all new struts, bushings and more and plan to install when the new motor is in.

Hope to have the motor out midweek to end of week.

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**vtl** · 04-24-2017, 04:54 AM

Do as much work as possible on transmission too while it's out. If the original engine is shot because of lack of proper maintenance, transmission didn't see fresh ATF too often. I'd refurb valve body, torque converter and replace the seal behind it.

**dmackey** · 04-25-2017, 07:53 PM

Originally Posted by vtl

Do as much work as possible on transmission too while it's out. If the original engine is shot because of lack of proper maintenance, transmission didn't see fresh ATF too often. I'd refurb valve body, torque converter and replace the seal behind it.

Thank you and the reason for my post is to get feedback much like what you've offered - thank you.

I purchased the transmission input seal and was also thinking of doing the angle gear seals and collar since it is easy at this point. I need to closer inspect the collar to check wear.

I never considered the torque converter, but after looking they run about $160 rebuilt and if that is a item of concern, I may just spend the extra and purchase. Shift solenoids have been in the back of my mind and I ready several thread on how to clean, but wondered if that may be enough, or just spend the $ and buy new. Tranny fluid looks better than what I've seen in my past XC70s, so I'm hoping it was replaced at some point and with the proper spec fluid, but you never know with a used car.

Purchased all the wear items for the front and and they arrive this week. Engine is ready to drop later this week when I have time.

I welcome all feedback.

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**vtl** · 04-25-2017, 08:29 PM

Originally Posted by dmackey

I never considered the torque converter, but after looking they run about $160 rebuilt and if that is a item of concern, I may just spend the extra and purchase. Shift solenoids have been in the back of my mind and I ready several thread on how to clean, but wondered if that may be enough, or just spend the $ and buy new.

TC collects clutch material residue on the walls, over the years it goes out of balance. TC refurb is splitting it, cleaning, welding back, balancing. This is why it's cheap.

VB has wear items inside, needs to be resurfaced, cleaned, new gasket, calibrated on the bench, etc. Can be done later, of course, but much easier with transmission taken out.

As far as body is in a good shape and interior is not completely ruined this car can be restored to a near new condition. I don't see this old Swedish quality standards in our year old XC60

Ford spoiled it.

**dmackey** · 04-26-2017, 11:54 AM

Thanks vtl.

I may purchase a new TC and also look into a set of new solenoids before the trans in installed back into the car. I agree that spending the $$ now is cheap insurance not having to pull the transmission down the road - TC for $160 and the shift solenoid kit for $120 isn't that bad. Fluid color is not clean red, but based on my current XC70, it doesn't stay clean red for long. I've seen worse colors in 3309 fluid, so I'm hoping everything is fine.

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