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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    1,927

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    What brand MAF did you put in there? This all sounds like a MAF problem. Using anything other than Bosch or Volvo means you will STILL have a MAF problem...
    +1, tried 2 aftermarket no brand cheap MAFs from ebay awhile back. Both just changed from one problem to another. Only Bosch/Volvo on this car.
    Past Volvos : 01 V70 T5, 01/02 V70XC, 02 V70 NA, 00 V70XC
    Current EV/Hybrid : 13 Tesla S85, 11 Gen3 Prius
    Friends cars under my care 17 Audi A4 Quattro DSG (B9) 05 Audi A4 Manual 6sp Quattro (B7) 04 e320 V6 Auto, 05 Accord 2.4, 08 Element 2.4, 08 Camry Hybrid
    Past Others : 01/03 VW MK4 Turbo/NA/01M. Gen1 Prius, Gen1 CRV, Gen2 Rav4, 02 Town&Country, 06 Corolla, 12 Audi A4 Quattro (B8), 07 Civic 1.6
    https://sites.google.com/view/howardsvolvos

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    486

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Are you certain there IS an idle air control valve? Haven't seen one of those since my 1985 Volvo 245 GLT with a B-21FT that had K-jetronic injection.
    On this engine, the idle air bypass path is built onto the Throttle Body, an appendage called the Idle Air Controller.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    486

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    What brand MAF did you put in there? This all sounds like a MAF problem. Using anything other than Bosch or Volvo means you will STILL have a MAF problem...
    I replaced it with a Bosch MAF Sensor, exact same part number that was built into this car.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    41

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    Definitely get some MAF cleaner and spray it down if you haven't yet. If you have the old MAF, you could clean it up and swap it in (could have just been dirty in the first place), or try running the car without the MAF plugged in. ECU should revert to 'safe tables' with conservative air/fuel and timing.

    Then pull the throttle body and give it a cleaning. Make sure all the intake hoses are well secured when re-assembling.

    I'm not convinced that this is an intake problem given the lean air/fuel mixture. I don't know about that gurgling sound in the tank but it could be related.

    How much and what quality gas to you have in there right now?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    486

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    The Volvo dealer figured this one out:

    It was a multi-component failure in the EVAP system (sucks up fuel fumes from the fuel tank, so they don't pollute the atmosphere.)

    These two solenoid valves were both failing to actuate:

    30670448 Turbo Boost Pressure valve

    8653908 EVAP Vapor Canister Purge Valve

    When I got the car back, all the reported problems seem to be fixed. There engine shutoff "kick" is gone, and the idle RPMS is steady at 650-700.

    They used the individual solenoid valve testing feature in VIDA to figure this out, where you actuate one valve at a time, and listen for the audible click.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    163

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    Thank you for the follow up!

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