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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    418

    Default A/C System Refill Issues

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am in the process of recharging my AC system. It's not that cold inside the car.
    From the vent at full blast, I get 48F.

    With car stationary and running in full blast, the compressor engages and disengages
    in ten seconds intervals. When driving, it does not seem to engage and disengage.
    Isn't the ten-second intervals abnormal; the intervals are also consistent while stationary.

    I have AC/Pro refill cans. With my readings, I could not fill the system with the
    refrigerant with UV so as to use the black light to search for possible leak. So, I do
    not know if there is a leak somewhere.

    Thanks in advance.
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles (Brown)
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles (Maroon)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K (Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Jeez, Oka, AC up your way? Over this way we just open the windows a bit since the temp rarely gets above high 70sF. Beauty of that is, is that the AC clutch and compressor last nearly forever.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    Jeez, Oka, AC up your way? Over this way we just open the windows a bit since the temp rarely gets above high 70sF. Beauty of that is, is that the AC clutch and compressor last nearly forever.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    I must confess that my body is kinda unique, I sweat easily which is why I feel comfortable in Anchorage. Whenever I go home to Africa, I don't use handkachief, I use small towels.
    One other big factor is, I ALWAYS listen to music in the car. It's been kinda a little windy for use lately. So my option would be, put the windows up and turn on the A/C to be able to
    hear every part of the music. Just a habit!
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles (Brown)
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles (Maroon)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K (Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	8622
    . . . With car stationary and running in full blast, the compressor engages and disengages
    in ten seconds intervals. When driving, it does not seem to engage and disengage.
    Isn't the ten-second intervals abnormal; the intervals are also consistent while stationary.
    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    . . . Beauty of that is, is that the AC clutch and compressor last nearly forever.
    Bill
    Just checked the AC clutch engages about every eighteen seconds, runs for three seconds and continues with the same cycle. That that a sign of a broken clutch? I have concerns about he clutch before refilling the Freon.
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles (Brown)
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles (Maroon)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K (Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    499

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    Just checked the AC clutch engages about every eighteen seconds, runs for three seconds and continues with the same cycle. That that a sign of a broken clutch? I have concerns about he clutch before refilling the Freon.
    Sign of a clutch that needs to be adjusted, my 02 did that before i pulled the clutch and adjusted the clearance, they do wear and need readjusting,
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo XC70's 02, 04 (no more Volvo's after these two bricks die) & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    Just checked the AC clutch engages about every eighteen seconds, runs for three seconds and continues with the same cycle. That that a sign of a broken clutch? I have concerns about he clutch before refilling the Freon.
    That is a sign the system is low on freon.

    With a low system - compressor engages, low side pressure drops, low pressure switch shuts off compressor, pressure comes back up, compressor is switched back on, and repeat. Pressures are easily checked with a gauge set. $27 and up on Amazon -

    A worn clutch causing compressor shut off usually happens after the clutch/compressor gets hot, with the failure starting first on the hottest days of the year, after driving for a period of time. And usually does not happen with such timed regularity (18sec off, 3sec on)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    That is a sign the system is low on freon.

    With a low system - compressor engages, low side pressure drops, low pressure switch shuts off compressor, pressure comes back up, compressor is switched back on, and repeat. Pressures are easily checked with a gauge set. $27 and up on Amazon -

    A worn clutch causing compressor shut off usually happens after the clutch/compressor gets hot, with the failure starting first on the hottest days of the year, after driving for a period of time. And usually does not happen with such timed regularity (18sec off, 3sec on)
    The ambient is near 78F, where inside the car is warmer with windows up to help lowering the affects of seasonal allergies. The center vent air is relatively cold 52F with RECIRC, MED FAN, AC ON, and NEW CABIN FILTER. But the compressor goes ON and OFF frequently, NOT quickly. What ON and OFF cycle is time for adding R134a?
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ Instant MPG 12 - 63/ Pirelli P4 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ 190K-mi/ Great Lakes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    NOT quickly. What ON and OFF cycle is time for adding R134a?
    Normal ac operation is the low side pressure will drop when the clutch engages, if the system is low enough - the low pressure switch will turn the compressor off. The only way to tell if it is the low pressure switch causing the compressor to cycle on and off is put a set of gauges on the system, and monitor all parameters in Vida. You might just have a bad low pressure sensor. The only way to really know if the system is low is to weigh the refrigerant and there is not really an easy to do that.

    There can be other things causing the compressor to cycle - high pressure too high, (radiator fan not blowing enough/bad sensor) ac evap temp too low (bad sensor, clogged expansion tube/valve), a bad outside air temp sensor - a few of the choices.

    As far as "adding" r134 - r 134 systems are more sensitive to refrigerant levels than the r12 systems. Too much or too little r134 causes the same problem - not cold enough. Any air mistakenly injected into the system due to poor charging techniques causes performance problems also.

    What all that means is adding r134 MIGHT help bring the 52F temp down if you don't have guages/VIDA. If the system is clicking off every 3-8 seconds @2000 rpms and it's at least 80 degrees outside - More refrigerant MIGHT help (but it did leak out from somewhere!)

    To be sure - check parameters in VIDA and your gauges, then if everything looks good evacuate the system with a good vacuum pump for a minimum of 20 minutes and install the specified amount of r 134 (.9kg I think)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    404

    Default

    Oka, what was the outdoor ambient temperature when you got 48F at the vent? If it was 55F, you have a problem. If it was 75F, it's working well.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pbierre View Post
    Oka, what was the outdoor ambient temperature when you got 48F at the vent? If it was 55F, you have a problem. If it was 75F, it's working well.
    Think it was about 62F.
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles (Brown)
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles (Maroon)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K (Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

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