Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    588

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Does your professional installer have any ideas what the problem may be?
    Nope.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Does the engine crank/turn over with the remote when it's cold out? If so, how many times or how long?
    How many times or how long does the engine crank/turnover before starting with the key when it's cold outside? Does it take longer than when warm?
    In other words, does the engine need more time to crank before starting when it's cold? If so, can the remote start be adjusted to crank longer if this is the problem?
    Yes, the engine "crank/turn over with the remote when it's cold out"
    Can't really say how many times, I think the cranking is just like using the key. This remote is set to try three times, that it, stop and try again.
    This part about needed more time before starting is what I plan on discussing with the Viper techs and the installer.

    Thanks for all the critical questions!
    Last edited by Oka; 09-14-2019 at 10:26 PM.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    588

    Default

    I have a side question on the same issue. I don't know exactly how to ask this question, but I'll do my best.
    What are the differences between starting the car with the remote starter (fob) or with the key (ignition), with respect to getting fuel?
    I believe both uses different processes.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Oka; 09-14-2019 at 10:53 PM.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

    Default

    Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me has a better feel for the different starting requirements of a cold engine vs. a warm one. Different fuel amounts? Longer cranking time? These are just guesses by me.

    My old 2002 had a remote starter and it worked when temps were in single digits after sitting 8-10 hours. When I used it, after pressing the button there'd be a momentary pause, the door would unlock, a click or two heard from inside the engine compartment, and then it would crank. I'm guessing the remote start somehow activated the solenoid switch for the starter motor. The same darn thing that I believe your key does when you turn it in the ignition cylinder.

    If the remote start needs to do more than engage the starter motor (activate the fuel pump?), your installer should be able to provide details. Otherwise, if a cold engine will start with your key but not with your remote, I'm thinking the remote start isn't allowing the car to crank long enough? Maybe you can do a test to see how many seconds the car cranks each time with the remote on a cold engine and then how many seconds it has to crank with the key before starting.

    I've learned a lot on these forums but far from being an expert. With starting issues, people talk about CRANK, SPARK, and FUEL. If one of these things isn't adequate, no start. Well, in your case, SPARK is the same for both the remote and your key. So for your cold starting with the remote, either car's not getting enough CRANK or the amount of FUEL is off?

    I think it's your right to ask your installer all kinds of questions. When you press the button on the remote, what electrical signals are being sent to the various modules of your car? Let's face it, if the remote start won't work when the engine's cold, what good is it? YOUR ENGINE STARTS FINE WITH NO PROBLEMS WHEN YOU USE THE KEY. Why won't it start with the remote? If your installer has no ideas, answers or explanations, maybe he should give you your money back!
    Last edited by Xfingers; 09-15-2019 at 05:58 AM.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Vt
    Posts
    1

    Default

    My quick thought would be the ignition interlock bypass is not set up correctly. Maybe try just putting your regular key in the switch without turning it and then try the remote starter?

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •