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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

    Default Vibration while breaking on Freeway -- 75 MPH

    Even passengers can feel it. Where to begin?
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    I can't believe YOU are asking this!
    99% of the time is that you need rotors.
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Maryland, USA
    Posts
    762

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
    I can't believe YOU are asking this!
    99% of the time is that you need rotors.
    Are you related to Donald Trump? SMH! Lighten up Francis.
    Cheers, Gary

    2022 XC60 B5/Black
    2021 XC60 T5/ Osmium Gray (Wife's)
    2017 XC60 T6/ Bright Silver (Loaned to my Son)
    2015.5 XC70/Silver (Loaned to my Daughter)

    2007 XC70/Rubyred (RIP)
    2003 XC70/Platinum Green (RIP)
    2001 V70/White (RIP)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    42

    Default

    vibration through the steering wheel is likely to be front rotors. Up through the seats is likely rears
    Last edited by Goldarlene; 12-18-2017 at 08:30 AM.
    2003 XC70

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Rotors.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    Even passengers can feel it. Where to begin?
    When I've had vibration during braking, it was usually because for some reason there were deposits on the brake rotors or the rotors had warped. Check both front and rear.

    When I had warped rotors, they were cheapies. Never again. You could actually *see** the warp. I see you have Zimmermans so maybe warping is not the issue here.

    A little more about warping for others who come across this post: It's a good thing to check for runout/warping, before you feel it, at 2 times. One when you install new rotors to make sure they are spinning true. The other is when you replace pads so you can change out wonky rotors while you have things apart. If you don't already know how here is one way : http://www.tirereview.com/brake-rotors-measure-cut/ - They talk about lathing new rotors. Well, I say maybe. If they are only out like 0.001" or so you can often get improvement simply by moving the rotor hat one hole clockwise and remeasuring until runout is minimized. Then cut with the on-car lathe (I don't have an on-car lathe, for home use you could use something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Grizzly-Dis...r/263355563722). I hear the Kwik-Lathes are better, and more $$ even. Why no lathe here? Because what I find is with good parts there is usually no measurable problem and if there is then moving the rotor a hole or 2 fixes things. You might want to mark the rotor as to position.

    Here is what I've had to deal with most often. What can happen is that if you skimp on the break-in of new pads and rotors, if you brake hard, if you get road splash on the rotors and then brake just wrong, or if you replace pads and change brands without resurfacing or replacing rotors, you can get deposits on the rotors that cause pulsating when braking. The rotor effectively has spots with higher/lower coefficient of friction versus the pads (constant CoF) and although it will measure no runout, still pulsates. Sometimes you can fix this by burnishing the rotors with emery paper. Sometimes you have to replace the rotors.
    Lately I've used CRC 05080 (a conditioning spray) on the rotors when I just replace pads, or if I have enough lead time I will use EBC pads which have an abrasive on the face (downside is dust). I am sure you'll figure this out, but I figured while I was waiting for some paint to dry (I am making a toy for a small child) I'd take a look at Volvo XC, this post caught my attention.
    Last edited by albertj; 12-19-2017 at 07:03 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Or just place a magnetic Dial indicator on the caliper and measure the rotor runout, replace rotors if exceeds specs
    Last edited by AKAMick; 12-18-2017 at 07:08 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKAMick View Post
    Or just place a magnetic Dial indicator on the caliper and measure the rotor runout, replace rotors if exceeds specs
    Yes this is simplest, as long as that caliper dose not move (hint - a well lubricated caliper "floats." ). This is also why you measure runout upon install. Xheart (the OP) question was, "where to begin?" and an effective answer is "measure rotor runout." Watch out for radial variation in the amount of runout.
    Last edited by albertj; 12-19-2017 at 07:12 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Helpful!

    All four are Zimmerman Z-Coated rotors. Front rotors are running for close to 40K miles. I'll take the wheels off for a closer look at the rotors and pads. JRL prefers Zimmerman too.

    Meanwhile, all four tires are Pirelli, but in past few months two of the original four were replaced due to flat. Now the tread-depths are FRONT 9/32 & 9/32, REAR 12/32 & 11/32. Is this a problem?

    Happy Holiday!
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    Helpful!

    All four are Zimmerman Z-Coated rotors. Front rotors are running for close to 40K miles. I'll take the wheels off for a closer look at the rotors and pads. JRL prefers Zimmerman too.

    Meanwhile, all four tires are Pirelli, but in past few months two of the original four were replaced due to flat. Now the tread-depths are FRONT 9/32 & 9/32, REAR 12/32 & 11/32. Is this a problem?

    Happy Holiday!
    Theoretically if you run 40K miles and only stop once, and normally, your rotors will have no real wear. Miles don't grind away your rotors, stops do. There isn't really a substitute for pulling wheels and measuring While you are at it measure rotor thickness to assure that you're in spec.

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