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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    138

    Default leather conditioner and Foggy Headlight lenses- Help

    1. What's the best leather conditioner? I'm starting to see wear on the side bolsters.
    2. Best Headlight lens refinisher? Foggy lens.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    163

    Default

    I did my headlight lenses today, I had the bumper cover off to install a trans oil cooler, so it was a good time. My method, found on YouTube, uses Windex, 0000 steel wool and clear acrylic spray. It actually worked quite well, though the acrylic was tricky to spray in the right amount. This guy says to wipe them with acetone, I tried and didn't like the results, so I used the acrylic spray.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2ZRKPshPVM

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    91

    Default

    I've had good results with Lexol products on my leather.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Lexol or Griots for leather conditioners.

    Polishing headlights takes elbow grease and patience. Don't skip grits. Any of the kits work.

    Get a UV blocker to coat them when you're done. When they were new, they were coated with a UV blocking finish. You'll be removing the haze by cutting down into the plastic (on a microscopic scale) so it's exposed and will haze quickly without protection.

    I've used Meguiar's on our Corolla.

    https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G178...F0H7008P56TA3R
    Last edited by Astro14; 08-16-2017 at 07:29 AM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Roanoke, VA
    Posts
    4

    Default

    I used Mother's Mag & Aluminum Cleaner. Each headlight took maybe 5 minutes. The results were fantastic.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_UE7mz_vj8&t=1s

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlanS View Post
    2. Best Headlight lens refinisher? Foggy lens.
    Don't bother. Exactly *no* headlight "restoration" is worth the money. Replacement is the only way to go.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    My XCs have glass lenses, but my truck has plastic lenses that where quite foggy, used my finishing buffer, lambs wool bonnet, rubbing compound, polishing compound, waxed them, one hours labour, done!, clear as the day it left the factory, yes some of the
    "headlamp refinishing" products don't really cut it, so I just got out the big guns, actually buffed the headlamp aiming lugs almost off!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKAMick View Post
    My XCs have glass lenses, but my truck has plastic lenses that where quite foggy, used my finishing buffer, lambs wool bonnet, rubbing compound, polishing compound, waxed them, one hours labour, done!, clear as the day it left the factory, yes some of the
    "headlamp refinishing" products don't really cut it, so I just got out the big guns, actually buffed the headlamp aiming lugs almost off!
    Remember to coat the lenses. (from experience)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    Best leather care is Volvo's one (part number 31375177). I tried many alternatives, of course, even more expensive than Volvo.

    As for the headlights polishing, the most satisfying result was after using Sylvania headlights restoration kit, but it decayed in no matter of time, under two weeks. I tried it 2 or 3 times. Resorted to polishing with sandpaper and using Wipe New, which does not return look to near new (like Sylvania does), but stays in place way longer.
    2002 V70 (sold)
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default follow-up to the question

    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    Best leather care is Volvo's one (part number 31375177). I tried many alternatives, of course, even more expensive than Volvo.

    As for the headlights polishing, the most satisfying result was after using Sylvania headlights restoration kit, but it decayed in no matter of time, under two weeks. I tried it 2 or 3 times. Resorted to polishing with sandpaper and using Wipe New, which does not return look to near new (like Sylvania does), but stays in place way longer.
    I had used the 3M headlight kit, got OK results, but was thinking of using the SEM spray (See LINK) after removing and resurfacing/polishing the lights. Was thinking of building a UV light box to do the cure (the SEM spray requires a UV cure). I agree with the Reverend that replacement is best; I think that one can avoid the need for replacement by avoiding automatic car washes, at least the ones that use aggressive chemicals and/or the whirling brushes, but I have only empirical evidence (both ways) and guesses/suspicions.

    As for leather. There are many, many cleaners and protectants available. I use Lexol (separate cleaner and protectant solutions) and Protectant 303; except sometimes as an alternative to the Lexol cleaner/protectant, I use saddle soap (comes in cans, follow label directions). Saddle soap works best but is fussy/specific to use. You get a buildup of grime over time using the combination cleaner/protectant solutions, some worse than others, but generally reversible with one round of saddle soaping, or several rounds of saddle soaping a week or so apart. The Lexol and 303 conditioners do each help keep the leather supple although they work differently. The Lexol will darken some leather slightly, enough for me to notice but it actually never bothered me. Lexol can't be used on vinyl (the PVC artificial leather) but the 303 can. Neither is suitable for suede. I use the saddle soap when I notice the natural creases in the leather becoming somewhat dark, which means they are holding dirt. The issue there is that generally dirt is abrasive and holds excess moisture/chemicals. If you don't get it out, that dirt/fine grit will eventually (may take years) cut thru the crease and make a crack or split.

    Fun & games..

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