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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    38

    Default Serpentine belt/timing belt replacement 2006 xc70

    Hi all,

    I'm going to replace my timing belt, water pump, and the other associated parts. I've searched for youtube guides here and elsewhere and don't find one exactly on my vehicle, a 2006 xc70.

    Anyone know of a comprehensive guide or tutorial for this task for my specific vehicle?

    Thanks --

    Harold

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    2001-2007 are basically the same.

    Some good information here: http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
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    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Thank you Astro14, lots of good info there!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    364

    Default

    FCP Euro also has a Youtube video that is typical of the job. I found it easier to remove the crank pulley in order to readily view the crank timing mark and insure correct belt installation. Others don't remove the pulley. Dealers choice.
    Also, the cam timing marks are very faint scribe lines, not bold "marks", at least on mine. With the crank pulley removed, I used the more obvious crank mark when aligned with it's witness on the block to find the cam marks and then make white marks over the light cam marks. Also note where they coincide on the plastic cam cover, it is not in perfect alignment with the cutaway.
    I did not use a cam locking tool, but I think I would consider it next time, as it relieves the concern of moving a cam off location while fiddling with belt.
    There are two different tensioner designs, engine serial number specific, make sure to get the correct parts.

    Not a difficult job, but the timing obviously has to be perfect. Take your time, and it's easy!
    PDX-Vancouver, USA

    2005 XC70 140,000

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    414

    Default

    Have a white marker handy. Before you remove the old belt, align the markings, and mark on the old belt where the timing marks are. Then transfer those marks to the new belt.

    Its just an extra layer of safety to help reassure you that everything is lined up correctly.
    14xc60 3.0T
    03xc70 (Killed 12/16)
    1998 v70 (retired)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    I take off the crank pulley. Makes seeing the marks easier and I can't seem to get the belts on/off with the pulley in place due to interference with the cover/shielding under that pulley. Go in through the right front wheel well.

    Highlight the marks on the cam pulleys and on the crank pulley. I used a red sharpie.

    They only line up exactly when viewed dead on - I use a mirror. Looking from above the fender creates a parallax error. Everyone says they're not exact. They are, but the angle of viewing matters.

    Then, and this is critical and should be done EVERY time you do a belt, rotate the engine twice at the crank (which is once at the cams) and CHECK THE MARK ALIGNMENT AGAIN. From the forum results, about half of the people trying this job get the belt on wrong, and fail to do this step, resulting in poor running and engine codes. Once you've rotated the engine, and checked the marks, be certain that the tensioner is set properly, then button it all back up.

    You'll need a counter hold tool for the crank pulley. Buy or build one. A very big breaker bar is a must.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    I take off the crank pulley. Makes seeing the marks easier and I can't seem to get the belts on/off with the pulley in place due to interference with the cover/shielding under that pulley. Go in through the right front wheel well.
    The last two cam belt changes I did, I unbolted the passenger-side motor mount and raised that side of the engine a couple of inches. Then I removed the lower belt guard leaving the crank pulley in place. With the engine raised that wee bit it made getting the cam belt around the crank gear and pulley fairly easy. As a side benefit, it also made getting the serpentine belt on and off a whole lot easier.

    The one thing that I think is crucial and is mentioned in the "official" instructions in regard to aligning the timing marks is to rotate the engine clockwise about 90 degrees past the marks for the cams, then rotate the engine anti-clockwise back to the marks. Apparently this is to unload the cam timing actuators and minimize the possibility of cams jumping from the correct position when the cam belt is removed.

    And most importantly and as Astro has mentioned, CHECK and DOUBLE-CHECK your work before you button everything up. Nothing worse than having to re-do everything because you jumped a tooth and didn't catch it before you finished up.

    Have fun,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    364

    Default

    As for the large crank pulley bolt, I used an impact. It came right off without moving the crank, reinstalled the same way. Even if it does move the crank, the belt is still on and timed. I reinstalled the bolt so that I could rotate the engine as required.
    A counter hold tool is a good idea, but I did not find it necessary.
    PDX-Vancouver, USA

    2005 XC70 140,000

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scopeman View Post
    As for the large crank pulley bolt, I used an impact. It came right off without moving the crank, reinstalled the same way. Even if it does move the crank, the belt is still on and timed. I reinstalled the bolt so that I could rotate the engine as required.
    A counter hold tool is a good idea, but I did not find it necessary.
    I'm concerned about the counter hold tool -- not sure what it does, actually. I'm assuming it prevents the cam gears from turning, or the crank gear from turning, while you're setting the timing? Hate to buy one at $120 and find out I don't really need it, but as uninformed as I am about this procedure, hate to not have one if I turn out to need it. Any guidance on this? Thanks -- Harold

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Please read through the link I provided. Quite clear that the counter hold allow you to loosen/tighten the crank bolt.

    Maybe you can do the job without removing the crank pulley, I can't, but some members have.

    Cam pulleys will still move.

    Have you done a timing belt on any other car before? This one isn't easy...it's not hard to do, it's just hard to do correctly and get the marks lined up properly...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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