I take off the crank pulley. Makes seeing the marks easier and I can't seem to get the belts on/off with the pulley in place due to interference with the cover/shielding under that pulley. Go in through the right front wheel well.
Highlight the marks on the cam pulleys and on the crank pulley. I used a red sharpie.
They only line up exactly when viewed dead on - I use a mirror. Looking from above the fender creates a parallax error. Everyone says they're not exact. They are, but the angle of viewing matters.
Then, and this is critical and should be done EVERY time you do a belt, rotate the engine twice at the crank (which is once at the cams) and CHECK THE MARK ALIGNMENT AGAIN. From the forum results, about half of the people trying this job get the belt on wrong, and fail to do this step, resulting in poor running and engine codes. Once you've rotated the engine, and checked the marks, be certain that the tensioner is set properly, then button it all back up.
You'll need a counter hold tool for the crank pulley. Buy or build one. A very big breaker bar is a must.
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
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