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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default P2111 (Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Open)

    It was idling rough this evening and wasn't showing a CEL so I hooked up my code reader. P2111.

    Bad throttle body or perhaps the MAF sensor? (I am not sure where the MAF sensor is located btw.) Ironically, I just had everything disassembled last month when I replaced the PCV system.

    Thanks for any input folks.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    The MAF is located right next to the airbox. It's a cylinder, about 3" in diameter and 3" long, with a 4-pin weatherpack connector in it.

    The first thing I would check is the weatherpack connector from the wiring harness to the throttle body. Quite possible that yours has come loose, so the computer is seeing an open circuit. Get in there with a mirror, and make certain that it's snugly seated and has clicked into place.

    BTW - did you get my reply on BITOG about removing the bumper?

    Cheers,
    Astro
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Yes sir I did. Thank you.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default

    I disconnected the battery last night and let it sit for about 30 minutes. After reconnecting the battery, the car started and ran fine until I turned it off. I went to start the car today and it's back to its old self. Still a rough idle.

    I checked and rechecked my connections. They are still good.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Just an update on this.

    For the heck of it, I had Oreilly's test the battery.. and it turned out to be bad and would not even take a charge. Unfortunately, I bought it at Advance Auto Parts and according to the employees, their tester does not have as many capabilities at the Oreilly tester does. According to their machine, the battery is good. Volts were good, but slightly low on amps. I might as well get the alternator checked out too while I am waiting on the TB to come in.

    I have no idea if this would cause the rough idle and P2111 code, but it is rather coincidental.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    You wouldn't be the first to experience driveability problems as the result of a dying battery. The car seems voltage-sensitive. I've read lots of posts on this forum about weird electrical issues that were cleared up by a new battery.

    My Mercedes is the same way - very particular about voltage stability. The W220 S-Class needs a good battery or electrical/driveability issues show up.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
    Posts
    165

    Default Batteries or Bust

    Quote Originally Posted by dlundblad View Post
    Just an update on this.

    For the heck of it, I had Oreilly's test the battery.. and it turned out to be bad and would not even take a charge. Unfortunately, I bought it at Advance Auto Parts and according to the employees, their tester does not have as many capabilities at the Oreilly tester does. According to their machine, the battery is good. Volts were good, but slightly low on amps. I might as well get the alternator checked out too while I am waiting on the TB to come in.

    I have no idea if this would cause the rough idle and P2111 code, but it is rather coincidental.
    Somewhere in the Volvo specs there should be a number for minimum cold cranking amps (CCA) capacity of a battery in service. That is, not the spec for the new battery but rather the spec for a battery that's in use. Typically a battery in use needs to have at least 40 - 60% of the new-battery CCA capacity. When the battery is below that capacity then the voltage sags when loaded. When the voltage sags, many of the sensors that signals the car's systems via voltage level (instead of simple on-off) start talking nonsense.

    Best way out is to replace the battery. However, people don't typically junk their cars over a bad battery so an inexpensive way to get a good one is from a junkyard or pick-n-pull. The yard should have a tester that will read the CCA capacity of their battery, takes a few minutes of course but the closer the battery is to new spec the better deal it will be for you. Point is you can get a good, working battery that way usually for around $25 if you trade in your old core and $35 if you don't. You will probably have to go to the yard to get it, many yards don't deliver to individuals but they susally do deliver to repair shops so you may be able to get an indie shop to accept it for you, you'll have to work out the payment though.

    Also, your nearby Enterprise battery dealer may have blems cheap. I read on a Prius site:

    An Interstate "blem" battery is a new, never sold battery that has been in dealer inventory for what Interstate considers too long.(possibly a year) The dealer will strip off the Interstate decals and substitute an "Econo battery" or some such label. It is sold for 30%-50% of new price with only a 90 day warranty.

    That's another way to save $$.

    Good luck with your battery.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Still waiting on the throttle body. The 3 day shipping turned into 6 day shipping.

    We removed the alternator last night and it looked pretty sad. Not a bad job once the e fan, PS pump and air ducts are out of the way. Lots of black soot all over it with a bit of bearing noise. Sadly, the guys at Oreilly's couldn't test it because of it's unique and non traditional design. These have a clutch bearing too I guess? I haven't touched a vehicle with one of these yet. They seemed to have a decent price compared to Rock Auto so I just went with them on a new reman'ed unit.

    Still trying to decide if I should try to start up the car with a new alternator or just wait until the new throttle body is on too. A bad battery on top of a questionable alternator make sense. If this is related to the TB failure, I am just surprised it threw the original P2111 code.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    The over run clutch on the XC alternator is still good. FCP sells a replacement for about $70. When the clutch went out on the T5, at about 170,000 miles, my local shop welded it solid, and rebuilt the alternator, for about $105. Cash.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Replaced the TB and the alternator today. No issues whatsoever and she runs great. Since it threw a TB code, I want to say the alternator had nothing to do with it, but who knows.

    I'll keep you guys updated if anything changes.
    2002 S60 2.4T 173k

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