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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

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    Good reading and happy that it worked well for you, my 02 had AT issues and I just rebuilt the VB and solenoids myself, It was successful and cheaper and quite satisfying to correct the problems on my own, though I did add a filter and AT cooler as Astro suggests, I used this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSGO-SHI...53.m1438.l9372

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    182

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    You may also find that adding a cooler and filter helps with the life and performance of your transmission.
    Now, to go flush the fluid on my MB so we are not having this discussion about the NAG-1 in that car...
    Cheers,
    Astro
    I am considering a cooler based upon your posts I have read. The XC is a back up and winter road trip vehicle for me. It will probably only get around 5,000 miles a year, but it will usually be long highway hauls laden with ski or camping gear.

    I had a 1997 W140 S600 from 2004-2013. Loved it.

    Brett

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Every car guy should own a V-12...

    Back on topic.

    I installed a transmission temperature gauge in my 1990 Toyota 4 Runner after the transmission overheated (it had a "transmission hot" light on the dashboard) one cold winter night on the highway. Several years of driving that old truck with a transmission temperature gauge demonstrated, to me, in my driving, that load, not outside air temperature, was the key factor in transmission heat.

    Around town in the summer heat, no problem.

    Heavy throttle for sustained periods on the highway in the winter = high heat load and hot transmission.

    Now, it wasn't locking up anymore, it needed a torque converter, but I had added a big transmission cooler to it. So, torque converter slipping was happening all the time, and ostensibly, that isn't the case in our Volvos, but the experience was educational.

    So, do cars driven only in the winter need a transmission cooler?

    My answer is yes.

    Better still, for cars in a cold climate, is a transmission cooler with thermostat. That way, the fluid will warm up enough for proper operation when it's really cold, while still being kept from getting too hot. The setup that I have on the T5 (which was installed prior to taking the car to Colorado for a few years) is exactly what Toyota put on my new Tundra: thermostat controls flow to a big cooler.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #24

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    I'm wondering whether crimp connectors would be acceptable? Thank you.. !

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    182

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    Quote Originally Posted by weems085 View Post
    I'm wondering whether crimp connectors would be acceptable? Thank you.. !
    That's what I used. Butt connectors, crimped and then heat shrink tubing used to insulate the joint in the usual manner.
    Brett

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett San Diego View Post
    That's what I used. Butt connectors, crimped and then heat shrink tubing used to insulate the joint in the usual manner.
    Brett
    This tubing is not oil-resistant:



    The right way is to get an appropriate harness...
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    182

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    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    This tubing is not oil-resistant:



    The right way is to get an appropriate harness...
    And that's not a picture of my harness. FWIW, I pinged the temperature of the transmission case and valve body cover at operating temperature with an IR thermometer. It was 85 degrees C. I then heated a sample of my heat shrink tubing in some transmission fluid at 95 degrees C for about 20 min. then took it out and tried to tear it apart. I couldn't. The tubing maintained its integrity.

    Brett

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    This tubing is not oil-resistant:



    The right way is to get an appropriate harness...
    Transmission is a very harsh environment so the heat shrink tubing type used must be heat resistant and with excellent chemical resistance too like Polyvinylidene Fluoride (PVDF, Kynar®) Heat Shrink Tubing.

    You can get PVDF tubing in 4 ft lengths here...

    https://www.mouser.com/Wire-Cable/Wi...yzs3m3Z1z0jnfk


    From you photo the red wire heat shrink tubing looks okay, was it a different type than what was used on the blue wire?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Northern Masachusettes
    Posts
    23

    Default

    So I'm about to try the GM part 24228787 but I'm a little confused about this casting id thing. No letter or A, B, or C. So what I'm gathering is that the casting letter or perhaps phrased as "Early" or "Late" doesn't really matter, AS long as the whole Valve Body is the same version. I.e. you cant interchange an A body parts with C body parts, BUT you can use a C casting in an early AW50/51 like my 2001 XC AWD? THE thing to note is that in the early AW valve bodies this "B5" spring should NOT be there and you should have the flat top S2 N.C. solenoid.

    The ATSG guide puts it this way:

    "INTERCHANGE: It is a recommended practice to use the “C” stamp valve bodies on earlier
    vehicles that may have had a “B”, “A”, or “NO ID” stamp valve body installed. when using
    the “C” stamp valve body it may be necessary to use the late internal wiring harness because
    of the difference between the connector locations of the two linear solenoids. It may also be
    necessary to have the vehicle re-flashed with the latest PCM software updates and also have
    the adapts reset. The shift solenoid S2 may be interchanged as well as long as the correct
    “open/closed” state solenoid is utilized. In other words a valve body from a Saturn vehicle
    with the “dome” top “normally open” solenoid may be used on a Nissan or Volvo vehicle
    providing the “flat” top “normally closed” solenoid is used in the solenoid S2 position, and
    vice-versa.
    WHAT WILL NOT INTERCHANGE: It is not recommended to interchange valve body
    sections because of worm track differences in the front control valve body and middle
    control valve body as well as differences in hole locations in the front control valve body
    separator plate and gaskets."

    So I guess my question is, the rest of the transmission must be the same? And differing early late valve bodies don't matter? Or perhaps I should be looking for a C type valve body as seems to be recommended by the ATSG manual? Is the GM part a C type valve body? I am not to worried about the wiring harness issue, just looking for the or perhaps a more reliable transmission fix considering this will be the 4th one!

    Thanks if anyone has any updates or insight into this C valve body recommendation.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    This tubing is not oil-resistant:



    The right way is to get an appropriate harness...
    Does anyone know the volvo part no for the correct harnesses?

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