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  1. #31
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    Jun 2013
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    Northeast
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    Uhh, I was in the thick of all this business about a month ago. Maybe you've seen my thread?
    http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...sion+diagnosis

    I've made some progress as of late but not sure I'm out of the woods just yet. One of these days I'll update the thread but it's been a back and forth battle for me so I don't want to jump the gun. My thread is a lesson in mistakes to avoid and potential pitfalls when doing the VB replacement. All in all, it's not a bad job if you're careful and pay attention to what you're doing.

    Chrisd, I have a 2002 XC70 with an A stamp. Your 2001 will have an A stamp or no stamp on its valvebody. The new late model GM VB you purchase will most likely have a B stamp. This will work with the rest of your transmission so long as you follow the instructions in this thread: replace the S5 solenoid (dome top) with the S5 (flat top) from your original valvebody AND remove the spring from the B5 valve. To access the B5 valve, you'll need to unscrew the cover from the rear valve body. This also gives access to the Lockup Relay Valve which you don't need to mess with. However, when screwing the cover back on, make sure that the indent on the top of the Lockup Relay Valve aligns with the edge of the cover. Otherwise, you'll have no TCC lockup in 5th gear, get a P0740 code, and your car will go in Limp Mode (thanks for the PM, FirstVolvo!!).

    jgjones095, I'm not sure what year your car is. Volvo did change the harness design in 2004 or 2005. In my 2002, the transmission harness was one long piece that went all the way to the gang of connectors in front of the airbox. I ordered the new harness, #30713954 ($150 + shipping), but this shorter harness only went to the top of the VB housing and was incompatible. I guess another section of wiring is required to run from the VB to the connector in front of the airbox. I talked to a Volvo parts dept. tech but he was at a loss. I'd have to look inside a 2005-07 XC70 to see how the new trans harness is situated. In my case, I extended the wires of my original harness using some Molex crimp connectors. Details are in my thread.
    Last edited by Xfingers; 04-13-2018 at 04:22 AM. Reason: corrected new GM VB to be a B model
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisd View Post
    So I'm about to try the GM part 24228787 but I'm a little confused about this casting id thing. No letter or A, B, or C. So what I'm gathering is that the casting letter or perhaps phrased as "Early" or "Late" doesn't really matter, AS long as the whole Valve Body is the same version. I.e. you cant interchange an A body parts with C body parts, BUT you can use a C casting in an early AW50/51 like my 2001 XC AWD? THE thing to note is that in the early AW valve bodies this "B5" spring should NOT be there and you should have the flat top S2 N.C. solenoid.

    The ATSG guide puts it this way:

    "INTERCHANGE: It is a recommended practice to use the “C” stamp valve bodies on earlier
    vehicles that may have had a “B”, “A”, or “NO ID” stamp valve body installed. when using
    the “C” stamp valve body it may be necessary to use the late internal wiring harness because
    of the difference between the connector locations of the two linear solenoids. It may also be
    necessary to have the vehicle re-flashed with the latest PCM software updates and also have
    the adapts reset. The shift solenoid S2 may be interchanged as well as long as the correct
    “open/closed” state solenoid is utilized. In other words a valve body from a Saturn vehicle
    with the “dome” top “normally open” solenoid may be used on a Nissan or Volvo vehicle
    providing the “flat” top “normally closed” solenoid is used in the solenoid S2 position, and
    vice-versa.
    WHAT WILL NOT INTERCHANGE: It is not recommended to interchange valve body
    sections because of worm track differences in the front control valve body and middle
    control valve body as well as differences in hole locations in the front control valve body
    separator plate and gaskets."

    So I guess my question is, the rest of the transmission must be the same? And differing early late valve bodies don't matter? Or perhaps I should be looking for a C type valve body as seems to be recommended by the ATSG manual? Is the GM part a C type valve body? I am not to worried about the wiring harness issue, just looking for the or perhaps a more reliable transmission fix considering this will be the 4th one!

    Thanks if anyone has any updates or insight into this C valve body recommendation.
    From the pictures I've seen of the AC Delco valve body part and the one I received it is a B casting. Also in the ATSG manual it states the latest C casting is similar to the original no letter casting and the A and B castings are similar. The B casting replacement VB in my car (2001) is performing great and depending on what's wrong with your transmission I don't think the casting revision should be a major concern (assuming being able to handle the wiring harness differences), what will make the difference is if your transmission problem is related to the VB or not. If the problem is related to the VB or solenoids the B version should work fine based on my experience even though a C version might be more ideal, just not sure you can get the C version with the AC Delco replacement part. Even with the B version you do get a completely new valve body including new solenoids, which will solve all the various problems caused by older worn valve bodies and sticking solenoids.

    What are your current transmission symptoms?

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    54

    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Uhh, I was in the thick of all this business about a month ago. Maybe you've seen my thread?
    http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...sion+diagnosis

    I've made some progress as of late but not sure I'm out of the woods just yet. One of these days I'll update the thread but it's been a back and forth battle for me so I don't want to jump the gun. My thread is a lesson in mistakes to avoid and potential pitfalls when doing the VB replacement. All in all, it's not a bad job if you're careful and pay attention to what you're doing.

    Chrisd, I have a 2002 XC70 with an A stamp. Your 2001 will have an A stamp or no stamp on its valvebody. The new late model GM VB you purchase will most likely have a B stamp. This will work with the rest of your transmission so long as you follow the instructions in this thread: replace the S5 solenoid (dome top) with the S5 (flat top) from your original valvebody AND remove the spring from the B5 valve. To access the B5 valve, you'll need to unscrew the cover from the rear valve body. This also gives access to the Lockup Relay Valve which you don't need to mess with. However, when screwing the cover back on, make sure that the indent on the top of the Lockup Relay Valve aligns with the edge of the cover. Otherwise, you'll have no TCC lockup in 5th gear, get a P0740 code, and your car will go in Limp Mode (thanks for the PM, FirstVolvo!!).

    jgjones095, I'm not sure what year your car is. Volvo did change the harness design in 2004 or 2005. In my 2002, the transmission harness was one long piece that went all the way to the gang of connectors in front of the airbox. I ordered the new harness, #30713954 ($150 + shipping), but this shorter harness only went to the top of the VB housing and was incompatible. I guess another section of wiring is required to run from the VB to the connector in front of the airbox. I talked to a Volvo parts dept. tech but he was at a loss. I'd have to look inside a 2005-07 XC70 to see how the new trans harness is situated. In my case, I extended the wires of my original harness using some Molex crimp connectors. Details are in my thread.

    Xfingers... great read on your thread. ... did you sort your locking code in 5th?

    I have a UK v70xc 2001with vb that has no casting numbers.



    I've been in and changed the 3 solenoids a few years ago and fitted an inline filter.
    My next plan is a vb replacement but the only version i can find is a remanufacture in the uk. (Until reading about the new GM bodies in this thread.)
    The harness is my concern as I know it needs lengthening due to its routing. I did post a thread here a few years ago enquiring on part no's as my volvo dealership was also unable to identify which part no was for what vb version.

    I don't suppose you have a photo of your extended loom routed around the VB?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

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    jgjones95, my P0740 code so far has not returned. I had incorrectly replaced the rear VB cover when removing the B5 spring on my first install of the new GM valvebody. I don't have a pic of my wiring harness routing but looking at your photo above:

    1. The blue connector of the middle SLT solenoid will be on the bottom of the solenoid housing for the new GM VB. With the wiring harness removed from the black retaining bracket at the very top of the photo, I was able to just barely get the original blue clip to snap into the new connector location. This was the very first solenoid I connected when reattaching the wiring harness. No wire lengthening was needed.
    2. The green connector of the lower SLS solenoid will be on the bottom of the solenoid housing for the new GM VB. No way was my original green clip going to reach the new connector location. I had purchased a used 2009 GM Equinox wiring harness off Ebay ($30) hoping it could replace my existing harness. It wasn't compatible but I was able to cut off its SLS clip with attached blue/red wires at a sufficient length and then make two crimp connections to the blue/red wires of my original harness to extend the wiring to the new connector location.

    I was able to connect all of the other solenoids using my existing wiring harness with no modifications or lengthening of wires required. After all solenoids were connected, I was able to fit the wiring harness back into the black retaining bracket at the top of the VB. A photo of my wiring harness would look very much like yours above except the SLT and SLS connectors would be at the bottom of the solenoids and you'd see two crimp connectors on the blue/red wires going to the SLS solenoid. Also, the crimped blue/red wires are now outside the clear plastic wire guide/sheath.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    2004 XC70
    Posts
    8

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    I'm in the middle my GM valve body replacement. I've removed the metal plate over the B5 control valve. I guess there's a circlip holding the B5? Just want to be sure since it hasn't been mentioned. I'd hate to open Pandora's Box.
    Thanks!
    This has been a very helpful thread.
    Last edited by vedipus; 11-08-2021 at 09:46 PM. Reason: additional text

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by vedipus View Post
    I'm in the middle my GM valve body replacement. I've removed the metal plate over the B5 control valve. I guess there's a circlip holding the B5? Just want to be sure since it hasn't been mentioned. I'd hate to open Pandora's Box.
    Thanks!
    This has been a very helpful thread.
    No circlip, once the plate is removed the valve should slide out. You could turn the valve body and let gravity and tapping on the VB to help you out. Be careful not lose any of the parts from the other valve under the plate and also be careful with the reassembly of the other valve to make sure higher part of the step in the outer sleeve is aligned with the edge of the plate. The other valve (TCC lockup) high part of the step cannot be under the plate. This valve can be compressed and rotated so the step is under the plate, you don't want this. Also be careful with the gasket, if bent to much the gasket material is brittle and can crack.

    https://app.box.com/s/mlaw01sxmzssj8r9tg7s7v909avr6t9o
    Last edited by FirstVolvo; 11-09-2021 at 08:50 AM. Reason: added link to notes and photos

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    2004 XC70
    Posts
    8

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    Thank you for the advice and helpful link! Was able invert the valve body and gently tap the valve out. Really did appear to be a circlip in there. Not having done this before is concerning because I'm not sure how things are supposed to look. Much appreciated. Now on to the re-assembly.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by vedipus View Post
    Thank you for the advice and helpful link! Was able invert the valve body and gently tap the valve out. Really did appear to be a circlip in there. Not having done this before is concerning because I'm not sure how things are supposed to look. Much appreciated. Now on to the re-assembly.
    When you install the valve body back in the transmission be sure the two sealing rings stay in place. Some say you can use Vaseline to hold them in place (transmission case) but it's better to use transmission assembly lube if you have it and even better to also have some guide pins (bolts with heads cut off) to align and slide the valve body in place.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    2004 XC70
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by FirstVolvo View Post
    When you install the valve body back in the transmission be sure the two sealing rings stay in place. Some say you can use Vaseline to hold them in place (transmission case) but it's better to use transmission assembly lube if you have it and even better to also have some guide pins (bolts with heads cut off) to align and slide the valve body in place.
    I've got the valve body in position with the bolts finger tight. Used Vaseline to hold the sealing rings in position. It has occurred to me that it isn't really possible to see if the seals are still in place. I understand your idea about the pins. I guess the concept is to avoid any wiggling as it is placed in position?

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by vedipus View Post
    I've got the valve body in position with the bolts finger tight. Used Vaseline to hold the sealing rings in position. It has occurred to me that it isn't really possible to see if the seals are still in place. I understand your idea about the pins. I guess the concept is to avoid any wiggling as it is placed in position?
    Yes, the pins are to keep the valve body aligned and from moving around, which can dislodge the seals. I remember I had my doubts too about the sealing rings staying position, what I did was to carefully acpply the tacky trans assembly grease to one side of the seals and the case and then installed the valve body and snugged down the VB bolts, then backed out the bolts as much as I could with out removing them and pulled the VB away from the transmission case just to check one more time the seals were still in position. It was difficult to see between the VB and case but if you position yourself just right and use a good light you can see if the seals are still in place.
    One seal is in the path to the reverse clutch so if that seals gets knocked out of place you'll know right away with no reverse, but if the other seal is knocked out of place, which is lube to the bearings, bushing, gears and clutches of the transmission you won't get immediate feedback something is wrong. Check and double check those seals stay in place.
    '

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