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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Should listen to your Dad always, "He always said "Start with the simple things first." " , Good advice. even for your "wobbly wheel"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Yes, I had all tires balanced. Improved situation. It's now reduced to a shudder at 60mph. Smooths out at higher speeds. I'm guessing its inner cv joint.

    I ordered a cheap replacement from Rock Auto, but I'm on the hunt for lower mileage Volvo from Salvage yard.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I did verify both spark at coil, fuel injector operation and fuel before jumping to conclusions. I then drove the car to local indy shop who suggested burnt valve independent of any suggestions from me. I paid for 1 hour of diagnostic fees, and would have to pay more for leak down/compression testing.

    I had lent my compression tester/ leak down tool to a friend at work. I was waiting for him to return it. I sincerely apologize if I offended Astro14 with my question.

    I came here because I was curious about the difficulty of removing the engine. I wanted somebody to share their experience of removing the engine, and pro/con of pulling it from top or bottom. I was also curious about pulling engine separate from transmission. I was just gathering info.

    I have R&R Engines and Transmissions both ways, but I don't have a lift and prefer the top method.

    Thanks for help.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    I wasn't offended.

    Just surprised and very concerned that you were barking up the wrong tree...an expensive tree at that...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Wobbily wheel problem described by my wife was Passenger side inner CV joint. Replaced with Cheap Cardone Axle, but on the hunt for good Volvo axles at salvage yard.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    10

    Default Engine swap questions

    Curious, since original thread was about swapping engines, let me ask this. I have 11 XC90 3.2 and I have the same question, which is best method to pull engine. I have presumed burnt valve as compression is only 40 lbs. on cylinder 5, so I was debating buying a low mileage head verse low mileage engine from '13. I have 189K and engine I found has only 37K, so I have a few questions some might know on this thread. Can I remove engine from top leaving transmission, or must both come out together. Searched for head, best I found was $400. plus $70. shipping with 109K on it. Would still have to buy cam locking tool set, head gasket set, etc., so the price of doing head alone goes up quickly. I can buy engine for $750. delivered, so I am looking for advice, anyone pull an engine on XC90 from top or bottom, with trans. or without from top.

    Thanks

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