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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default 2004 XC70 Engine removal (swap) - Top or Bottom removal advice

    Hello,

    I'm looking for advice on removing the engine from my 2004 xc70.

    I believe that my 2004 XC70 has a burned valve. The car has 220,000 miles, but has been pretty well maintained.

    I'm considering replacing the engine with a lower mile engine from local parts recycle. Current options are 83,000 miles fro $1200, or 155,000 miles for $950.00.

    I'm leaning toward 83,000 miles option. The week before Christmas (i had a few days off work) I did timing belt, tensioners, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, plugs. The battery & tires are also a few months old. The list of new parts is discouraging me from junking car.

    I'm in Cincinnati Area and most of the small local shops don't want to work on Volvo's. There are a few Indy Shops that specialize in European cars, but it would be cost prohibitive for them to swap the engine.

    I'm thinking that I need to DIY, or junk the XC70.

    I don't have a lift, I have swapped engines and transmissions but not Volvo's. Can I remove the engine from the top with cherry picker. I have read that removal from bottom is recommended, but I'm having a difficult time visualizing getting the car high enough with a normal floor jack. I would appreciate advice, or even experience from anyone who removed an engine from this style xc70.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    514

    Default

    Bottom removal on the subframe does appear to be the easiest but that as you mention it does need to raise the vehicle quite high, and is best done with a lift. Replacing an engine for a simple valve job seems a bit extreme, but if the replacement is cheaper than the repair and you have the time to R&R the engine, I suppose it is the way to go. The top removal is your only real choice without a lift, I have never have removed an XC70 engine myself, so good luck with the process

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    I would be certain of the diagnosis before swapping engines.

    What's wrong with this engine?
    Current Fleet:
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    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
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    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    xc70 is my wife's car. It has 220K miles on engine. It has a lot of new parts, but engine has a lot of miles. I can buy salvage engine with 83k and i year warranty for $1200.00.

    I swapped coil pack & injector. Verified spark & fuel. Everything is indicating loss of compression on cylinder 5. I will do leak down test this weekend before replacing engine.

    If i do a valve job with new valves and machine shop charges, I'm getting close to cost of entire engine. I'm working a ton of hours, and keep hoping I can find a shop that will swap engine for reasonable price.

    I have even considered scrapping car. There seems to be a remote chance I could sell it for parts, but that is extremely remote in my experience.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    514

    Default

    Compression test, and then use a bore scope to verify the valve, a exhaust valve most likely as intakes almost never ever burn, check for broken valve spring,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Wait, let me get this right: you're thinking of doing an engine swap.

    But you haven't put a compression gauge on the engine to see if it needs to be done?

    THAT is a test of compression. "Everything is indicating" is still a guess on your part.

    Buy or borrow a gauge and be certain.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Windy Manitoba
    Posts
    631

    Default

    He did say he's doing a leak down test before making a decision on replacing the engine....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Covington, KY
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Compression test came back good. I had previously replaced coil pack & injector. Verified both spark & fuel. It ended up being a bad spark plug. The OEM Volvo plugs that I ordered from FCP had a plug that failed after 400 miles. I have been working on cars my whole life, and have never seen this before. When I was a kid my Dad owned a Auto Machine Shop, and raced SCCA. He always said "Start with the simple things first." I can't believe this was the last thing I checked.

    Now, I just need to hunt down the "wobbily wheel" sound my wife keeps describing. I have checked wheel bearings, and suspension components... nothing obvious loose or noisy. I'm thinking it might be tire, and made appointment with tire shop for review.

    Thanks for all the help!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Andover, MN
    Posts
    230

    Default

    Ha-ha, talk about going full circle. Going from complete engine swap to a spark plug. Have never heard of that before, glad you figured it out and solved the issue.
    TomK
    2006 xc70 Blue/tan 160,000 miles
    2002 BMW 530i Sterling/Black 97,000 miles
    2001 Mazda Millenia Sand Mica/Tan 190,000 miles
    2003 VW Passat 1.8T 146,000 miles

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,132

    Default

    Yeah - the evidence for "engine replacement" was circumstantial at best.

    It was a cylinder misfire. Swapped injectors, swapped coils. Then leapt to the conclusion that the cylinder had no compression and the engine must be replaced, before examining all the other possibilities, e.g. Broken wiring to coil, broken wiring to injector, or...bad spark plug...

    I'm glad this worked out for the OP.

    The lesson is this: new parts aren't always good parts. If that concept is foreign to you, you've not been working on cars long enough...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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