Object in cylinder #3

[BrickDriver]

My 2007 XC70 experienced a loss of power and began making a noise as if a piece of metal was bouncing around inside the upper engine. A generic code reader showed a misfire at cylinder #3. I removed the #3 spark plug and found that the bottom electrode had been crushed against the plug base.

Had it towed to the local Volvo dealer. They've been investigating and are thinking that something may have been sucked into the cylinder. The next step is to pull the cylinder head to check it for damage and to better see the status of the cylinder wall and the cylinder head itself. It seems that they have looked through the plug hole and they don't see damage on the piston head or walls, as far as they can tell.

I'm debating whether to proceed (something like $1500 for this next step). I'm afraid this is going to get really expensive if I continue at the dealer.

Should I have it towed somewhere for further diagnosis?
Would it make sense have a used engine installed without spending on further diagnosis, or should I continue at least this next step to better understand the cause and resulting damage?
Does anyone know of a good indy in the north or west suburbs of Chicago?

Thanks for your help,
BrickDriver

[8pack]

If you think you are leaping to a new engine, get what is in there out if you can, button it back up and drive it.....

Otherwise what is the mileage?
What key maintenance has been done?
What s the repair history?
PCV update?
Oil changes in bevel gear, haldex, rear end?
Throttle body cleaned?
Transmission oil Gibbonsed or drained and filled to freshen up trans fluid?
Plug change?

If you have a good repair history,and depending on mileage, then it may be worth it to spend the cash to verify the damage. I would see if that if you have a problem you can get the dealer to credit you some of the labor towards a new engine install. If you know a REALLY good indie I would get a quote and compare to dealer prices.

But like I said above if you are going to jump to a new motor, button it up and drive it and keep an eye on oil consumption or if it keeps throwing codes.

[BrickDriver]

Thanks 8pack. That's a good idea. I'll see if we can get what is in there out with minimal spend.

Mileage is about 91k miles.
All scheduled maintenance performed on time.
The car has had no problems, other than an occasional indication that the anti-skid is disabled.
No PCV updates, but I did check it last summer using the rubber glove over the oil filler test.
No trans or bevel/haldex/rear end oil/fluid changes.

[pittsjock]

Thanks 8pack. That's a good idea. I'll see if we can get what is in there out with minimal spend.

I too lean towards making sure the debris is gone, buttoning it back up and seeing what happens. If I had the car, I would button it up, turn it over by hand to make sure there was nothing horrible going on and also do a "finger" compression test on #3 just to see there is any.

I have read reports of the PCV "banjo" bolt/valve in the intake failing and dropping a small piece of metal (the valve) into the intake where it gets sucked into the motor with bad consequences.

As I understand it, there were design changes to the banjo bolt to prevent this from happening, although I am not sure if this was a production change for this series or something that happened on later models.

Unfortunately, there is no really good answer here, but I would try and find an indy because the dealership will make this cost prohibitive very quickly.

[8pack]

Thanks 8pack. That's a good idea. I'll see if we can get what is in there out with minimal spend.

Mileage is about 91k miles.
All scheduled maintenance performed on time.
The car has had no problems, other than an occasional indication that the anti-skid is disabled.
No PCV updates, but I did check it last summer using the rubber glove over the oil filler test.
No trans or bevel/haldex/rear end oil/fluid changes.

Thats a low mileage car for its age. I would make the investment to sort it out either way. you can't even buy anything used close for less than $7-$10k.

[DYZ]

I would put in a new plug first to see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't go away, I would do a compression test (dry/wet) next to check for possible valve or ring damage. You can buy something like this for $20: http://www.harborfreight.com/compres...-pc-69885.html.

DYZ