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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Calgary, AB
    Posts
    20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Iroll_ View Post
    I had a minor leak here too.
    I used a regular hammer and rubber tipped tool from the oem tool kit to move the part "one notch".

    Why one notch?
    It's my understanding that this device is apart of a preloaded mechanism in the transfer case- so I only felt comfortable going with a "notch".

    20k miles and it's still leak free (knock on wood).
    So, you just removed locking pin #4, and tightened down the adjusting nut while the drive shaft was still on the vehicle? Also, are you still running 75W-90, then? It's been awhile. Any issues to date?
    '06 XC70 (Ice White) - 2.5T-Auto -102K Miles to-date
    '93 850 GLT -2.4L-Std - the Red Rocket - gone
    '80 240DL -B21F-Std - killed in 2015 by a Mazda outside our house @282k kms

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Sammamish
    Posts
    424

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    Quote Originally Posted by imst0ked View Post
    So, you just removed locking pin #4, and tightened down the adjusting nut while the drive shaft was still on the vehicle? Also, are you still running 75W-90, then? It's been awhile. Any issues to date?
    Running 75-140w Amsoil with Liqui Molly differential additive(MOS2)...At 208k-smooth running.
    Lots of hilly terrain and freeway driving (70mph-tops).
    Would you mind being a bit more specific about the hammer and notch procedure?

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Calgary, AB
    Posts
    20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Iroll_ View Post
    Running 75-140w Amsoil with Liqui Molly differential additive(MOS2)...At 208k-smooth running.
    Lots of hilly terrain and freeway driving (70mph-tops).
    Would you mind being a bit more specific about the hammer and notch procedure?
    So, I was wondering about the hammer and notch procedure. Can you simply put the car on ramps, remove the locking pin (#4), and then proceed to tighten the nut (#12) by one notch? Thanks.
    '06 XC70 (Ice White) - 2.5T-Auto -102K Miles to-date
    '93 850 GLT -2.4L-Std - the Red Rocket - gone
    '80 240DL -B21F-Std - killed in 2015 by a Mazda outside our house @282k kms

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Sammamish
    Posts
    424

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    Quote Originally Posted by imst0ked View Post
    So, I was wondering about the hammer and notch procedure. Can you simply put the car on ramps, remove the locking pin (#4), and then proceed to tighten the nut (#12) by one notch? Thanks.
    Do not remove anything. Move the notched piece over by one tooth to the right ( right tight).
    That's it.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Calgary, AB
    Posts
    20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Iroll_ View Post
    Do not remove anything. Move the notched piece over by one tooth to the right ( right tight).
    That's it.
    I'm confused. There's obviously something I'm not getting. The purpose of the locking pin (up at 12 o'clock position) is to prevent the adjusting nut from turning, so how then, do you manage to turn it without removing the locking pin first?
    '06 XC70 (Ice White) - 2.5T-Auto -102K Miles to-date
    '93 850 GLT -2.4L-Std - the Red Rocket - gone
    '80 240DL -B21F-Std - killed in 2015 by a Mazda outside our house @282k kms

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Sammamish
    Posts
    424

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    Quote Originally Posted by imst0ked View Post
    I'm confused. There's obviously something I'm not getting. The purpose of the locking pin (up at 12 o'clock position) is to prevent the adjusting nut from turning, so how then, do you manage to turn it without removing the locking pin first?
    Go to post 18 of this thread..Tighten the notched ring by one tooth.

    ( part 14 on the part(s) diagram of the Angle Gear.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    A month later and few road trips, the 75W140 has close to 1800 miles on it.
    AG exterior is dry - no vapors or accumulation.
    It is now close to 46 months since the switch to 75W140. The wetness at the bottom of AG has returned. Is this a sign that AG needs fluid change?
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    It is now close to 46 months since the switch to 75W140. The wetness at the bottom of AG has returned. Is this a sign that AG needs fluid change?
    It needs to be resealed: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/an...-leak-fix.html
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    The adjusting nut sets bearing preload. I wouldn’t touch it.

    Time to pull it and reseal your angle gear. Not a hard job.

    Do the collar sleeve while you’re in there.

    I did mine a few years back. I also modified the angle gear a bit to add a drain plug. I found that very worthwhile.

    https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...d-modification
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

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    Is it a must to file off 3mm at 30º of the inner edge of the cover? What is the rationale since this chamfered edge wasn't there at first?
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

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