04 XC70 Propshaft Removal

[mitel]

Hi

Just joined the forum. I'm a retired engineer who has been doing all his own car work for 50 years, but I am struggling here.

I lost all wheel drive about a year and a half ago, and finally decide to do something about it. Its the dreaded AOC pump and DEM failure. I decided to try to remove the prop shaft, took out all the bolts from the flange, but it would not pop out of the damper. I even tried tapping around the protrusion with my baby sledge to no avail. Is there anything else holding it in, or is it just rust? The prop shaft looks a little flimsy, so I'm hesitant to remove the center bearing and levering the flange out, as it seems to suggest in vadis.

any help would be appreciated.

[howardc64]

6 hex bolt/3 washers are all there is. Looks like its rusted on pretty good since you are in salted road region. Might use some penetrating stuff. Here are pics from my prop shaft removal and CV joint replacement (2001 so viscous coupling rather than Haldex but I think prop shaft is pretty much similar design) to give you a good view on what the CV looks like.

Looks like quite a few people gets stuck where you are and end up separating parts of the CV. See post #5 here. cattlecar is a Volvo tech.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...eshaft-removal

Here is another one that use the engine power to break it loose.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...t-removal-help

The CVs will loosen but I think center bearing has to come off to shorten the overall shaft length for the CV's to clear the flange.

[mitel]

Thanks for replying so quickly! I had no idea there were CV joints in there. I thought it was just a spline, like American cars.

Can the damper be held somehow so engine power can break loose the flange? right now, the damper just spins on the haldex

bill

[howardc64]

Can the damper be held somehow so engine power can break loose the flange? right now, the damper just spins on the haldex

I'm not familiar with how to lock the AWD system on Haldex (never owned one) to break it loose with engine power. Front CV can't be done using this method anyways but might be a lot less rust then the rear. You might consider cattlecar's chisel method.

[Antherzoll]

Attack it with penetrating oil on both side and through the bolt hole. Look at the back side of the flange there should be extra holes that you could poke a punch through to hammer out the CV joint. To get the CV joint to clear the flange you'll need to drop the carrier bearing and supporting bracket.

The flange nut on the AOC is a bear for two reasons, it's torqued down to 150nm and getting a proper counterhold can be tough. I'm in the middle of servicing my AOC pump, but haven't tackled the flange yet. I plan on using a heavy-duty strap wrench as a counter hold.

[volvospeed70]

Hi

Just joined the forum. I'm a retired engineer who has been doing all his own car work for 50 years, but I am struggling here.

I lost all wheel drive about a year and a half ago, and finally decide to do something about it. Its the dreaded AOC pump and DEM failure. I decided to try to remove the prop shaft, took out all the bolts from the flange, but it would not pop out of the damper. I even tried tapping around the protrusion with my baby sledge to no avail. Is there anything else holding it in, or is it just rust? The prop shaft looks a little flimsy, so I'm hesitant to remove the center bearing and levering the flange out, as it seems to suggest in vadis.

any help would be appreciated.

If you look at the back of the flange there are 3 extra threaded bolt holes that don't line up with the holes that allen head bolts went into. All you do is screw the bolts into the back and they will push the flange of the shaft right out. Took me maybe 3 minutes to do it. VIDA instructions tell you about the extra holes.

As for the nut for the flange, i just used a strap wrench to hold the flange and took the nut right off.

[mitel]

"If you look at the back of the flange there are 3 extra threaded bolt holes that don't line up with the holes that allen head bolts went into. All you do is screw the bolts into the back and they will push the flange of the shaft right out. "

Cool!

must the front flange be removed as well or is there enough flex to allow the shaft to drop without bending anything?

bill

[Antherzoll]

The front CV does not need to be removed, only the carrier bearing and supporting bracket.

[Jcz26]

Are you absolutely positive it's the haldex unit? I was a GM tech for many years and I fell into the volvo world back in Jan. of this year, first with an S60, and the latest addition the xc70. I too thought the haldex was the issue with mine, until I found a website that showed the haldex pump wiring configuration , whereby I jumped it and the unit locked as it should. A friend works at the local volvo dealer and he hooked me up with a tech who checked a couple other things and found the sleeve was stripped out on the angle gear. Replacement part was 172.00, although I later found out that it had been replaced once already. When the angle gear (box) was out and the sleeve was removed, I looked down inside at the splines on the shaft and noticed that there was a hump at the tip of the shaft and then the diameter of the shaft got thinner. What I was actually seeing was the splines were stripped and there was just a small bit left at the tip. I suspect yours is no different since the angle gear assy, if I remember correctly, fits 04 to 07, mine is an 06. The tech at Volvo told me that it's more feasible that the sleeve strips rather than a haldex unit failing, he said the splines were a weak link and that they strip long before anything goes wrong with the haldex motor.

Hi

Just joined the forum. I'm a retired engineer who has been doing all his own car work for 50 years, but I am struggling here.

I lost all wheel drive about a year and a half ago, and finally decide to do something about it. Its the dreaded AOC pump and DEM failure. I decided to try to remove the prop shaft, took out all the bolts from the flange, but it would not pop out of the damper. I even tried tapping around the protrusion with my baby sledge to no avail. Is there anything else holding it in, or is it just rust? The prop shaft looks a little flimsy, so I'm hesitant to remove the center bearing and levering the flange out, as it seems to suggest in vadis.

any help would be appreciated.

[vtl]

2004 should have the sleeve addressed long time ago, I don't think the original weak sleeve may last for so long.

On the other hand, it looks like AOC pump dies in about 10 years on every vehicle. Especially mitel mentions DEM errors.