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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    22

    Default

    35 N-m is 26 foot pounds, NOT 176! Torque to 26 ft-lb, then tighten an additional 90 degrees.

    Back to the struts: I have the Sachs OEM-type from FCP. I couldn't get the ball joint out with the suspension at full droop, so I tried jacking the rotor/hub up to about normal ride height - thought that would gain me the downward travel I needed for the BJ to clear the knuckle. I'm not sure why, but with the A-arm level I couldn't budge the BJ downward at all. (And no, I wasn't jacking from under the A-arm!) I think this approach will work, and I have a couple of other thiings to try.

    On a whim, I contacted FCP for suggestions. They responded with 3 pages from the Volvo manual, pretty much what you attached earlier. Nice, but ultimately no more helpful then what I already knew. They suggested removeing the whole A-arm! Sure hope I don't need to go that far.

    Also, I'm still a little baffled by the Volvo cartoon. They show all the bolts that need to be removed - sway bar link, ball joint, and the strut top - nothing about the axle bolt. Do you interpret the instructions as meaning you have to pull the hub off the axle?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Corona California
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smitty View Post
    35 N-m is 26 foot pounds, NOT 176! Torque to 26 ft-lb, then tighten an additional 90 degrees.

    Back to the struts: I have the Sachs OEM-type from FCP. I couldn't get the ball joint out with the suspension at full droop, so I tried jacking the rotor/hub up to about normal ride height - thought that would gain me the downward travel I needed for the BJ to clear the knuckle. I'm not sure why, but with the A-arm level I couldn't budge the BJ downward at all. (And no, I wasn't jacking from under the A-arm!) I think this approach will work, and I have a couple of other thiings to try.

    On a whim, I contacted FCP for suggestions. They responded with 3 pages from the Volvo manual, pretty much what you attached earlier. Nice, but ultimately no more helpful then what I already knew. They suggested removeing the whole A-arm! Sure hope I don't need to go that far.

    Also, I'm still a little baffled by the Volvo cartoon. They show all the bolts that need to be removed - sway bar link, ball joint, and the strut top - nothing about the axle bolt. Do you interpret the instructions as meaning you have to pull the hub off the axle?

    I had to edit my previous post. Whenever there should be a degree symbol I'm seeing "&#176" which was confusing me.

    As for the axle bolt your right as for vida not showing it. They do show it for removing the control arm though.

    The way I interpret the cartoon is
    Pry control arm down
    Slide or rotate(tie rod is still connected) knuckle outward to clear ball joint
    Spread knuckle clamping around the strut and slide down.

    I think the knuckle needs to come out past the ball joint in order to come down enough to slide off the strut.
    Looks like you still need to keep the control arm pried down so it don't come up and pinch the cv boot.
    I also see in the axle removal section they are using a press tool to press it out of the hub.
    In the knuckle removal section there's a lot of the same cartoons pointing to nuts and bolts shown in other sections but nothing showing how to remove it.

    Vida for the P3 cars is really bad. The more I look the worse it gets.
    I get the feeling Volvo knows I'm not licensed and is feeding me a bunch of crap.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I think we're in agreement. I can not imagine needing to separate hub from axle for a simple strut replacement!

    It would help to have an assistant when I'm trying to get the BJ out of the hub, but that's not likely so I just have to get creative.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Corona California
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Have you tried soaking the ball joint with some PB Blaster? Sounds like yours is just stuck.

    When I tried my struts I had the front end up on stands. Disconnected only the sway bar links and the lower strut pinch bolts.

    I was able to drop the arm/knuckle down enough to get about 2" of the strut out. That's more than enough to to pull the ball joints out. you did remove the pinch bolts correct?

    This may give you some ideas http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...th-Some-Photos

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    22

    Default

    No, the ball joint isn't stuck at all. Some PB and using an oversized socket on the flanged nut with one rap from a 4-lb hammer was all the persuasion it took. With the A-arm at full droop I could pry the BJ stud out about an inch from the knuckle, but at that point I was at the limit of how far I could lever the A-arm down. Then when I jacked up the hub to get the A-arm level (essentially replicating the A-arm height with the wheel installed), the BJ resisted being levered out. That's the part I need to get clever with. I'll find a spacer to keep the BJ stud partway out of the knuckle at full A-arm droop, then jack up the hub.

    The strut pinch bolt was not a problem at all, and I tapped a cold chisel into the gap to spread the opening. With the upper bolts out, I could rotate the strut by hand.

    From the swedespeed link, I LIKE that ratcheting strap idea! I think that's going to be my third hand.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    22

    Default

    18 months later, the update...

    I tried 3 different times to change those dang struts. On my last attempt I had an assistant AND a 6-foot pry bar to lever the A-arm down - still no dice.

    This summer an engine mount went bad and due to time constraints I had a local shop handle it, and also had them do the struts. I told the mechanic about the trouble I'd had getting the A-arm low enough to get clearance to lower the strut and asked what he did. Turns out he pulled the axles! Seems way too complicated for a simple strut replacement!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    California
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smitty View Post
    18 months later, the update...

    I tried 3 different times to change those dang struts. On my last attempt I had an assistant AND a 6-foot pry bar to lever the A-arm down - still no dice.

    This summer an engine mount went bad and due to time constraints I had a local shop handle it, and also had them do the struts. I told the mechanic about the trouble I'd had getting the A-arm low enough to get clearance to lower the strut and asked what he did. Turns out he pulled the axles! Seems way too complicated for a simple strut replacement!
    Take a look at this video

    Its not a XC70 but it is a first cousin

    But it should be the same proceedure

    If there are differences please post here so that others will be aware

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyOnZl9yA1k

    Good Luck

    Paul

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    California
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Not an XC70

    But it is a close relative

    Procedure should be very similar

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyOnZl9yA1k

  9. #19

    Default

    I told the mechanic about the trouble I'd had getting the A-arm low enough to get clearance to lower the strut and asked what he did.

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