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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Dalton, MA
    Posts
    8

    Question On-going issues, looking for advice/help

    Hey guys,

    I posted a little while back that I was getting a MAF error code P0101.

    I finally gave up on trying to figure out if my old sensor was bad and bought a new one. Installed a new one and still getting the errors.

    Lately there has also been more noticeable changes in how the car idles. Sometimes coming to a stop it will idle normally and the car will be smooth. Other times there is a noticeable vibration and i can see the RPMs fluctuate slightly.

    I have checked the fuse for the MAF itself and appears in good order. The signals from the MAF are good as far as I can tell (and it is NEW).

    I have noticed there is a crack in the top of my air box (above filter), Could this be a cause? Should I pull my air intake hose that goes from the MAF to the engine and look for cracks?

    I will get the CEL, and sometimes if I clear it, it will not return for a few days, other times right away, and occasionally it will not be there when I start the car.

    What other options can I try?

    I am not sure if is related as well, but lately (noticed it since I replaced the MAF) the radiator fan will turn on when the car turns on, but it will ramp up to fully on and stay there until the car is turned off. I know there is a coolant leak/issue that I am looking for the leak. It will be fine for 2/3 weeks and then will eat 2 bottles of coolant (coolant low CEL, fill it to max, drive a day or two and it will need more). I have had the car running to keep the coolant pressurized and still cannot find a leak. I am going to try to pull the bumper this weekend to get a better look.

    ANY help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    1,921

    Default

    On the MAF, did you replace with Bosch or Volvo OEM (which is Bosch)? There are lots of aftermarkets electronics parts from China, I'm at 3 faulty part in 3 purchases including 2 MAFs for 01 V70 T5. The other one was a throttle position sensor for a Chrysler mini van.

    On your intermittent CEL, is it still P0101? or a new code?

    On the crack in the air pathway. A crack in front of the MAF should be okay since MAF will measure the air it introduces. A crack after MAF (towards the turbo) would be a problem. It would introduce air unmeasured by the MAF.

    On coolant loss, does temperature gauge act normal? (goes to middle quickly and stay there) I had mystery coolant loss before and was caused by bad thermostat. Instrument panel engine temp gauge needle would sit below typical. I guess it periodically got purged out of the overflow. After replacing thermostat, no more mystery loss and temp gauge shows normal. You might put a container at the end of the coolant overflow purge line and see if catch anything.
    Last edited by howardc64; 08-05-2015 at 08:43 PM.
    Past Volvos : 01 V70 T5, 01/02 V70XC, 02 V70 NA, 00 V70XC
    Current EV/Hybrid : 13 Tesla S85, 11 Gen3 Prius
    Friends cars under my care 17 Audi A4 Quattro DSG (B9) 05 Audi A4 Manual 6sp Quattro (B7) 04 e320 V6 Auto, 05 Accord 2.4, 08 Element 2.4, 08 Camry Hybrid
    Past Others : 01/03 VW MK4 Turbo/NA/01M. Gen1 Prius, Gen1 CRV, Gen2 Rav4, 02 Town&Country, 06 Corolla, 12 Audi A4 Quattro (B8), 07 Civic 1.6
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    603

    Default

    It is worth checking the air intake ducting for anything that would leak or let unmetered air into the system.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    P0101 -- ECM-1210 -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too high
    P0101 -- ECM-121B -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too low

    Would be good to know of it's either high or low, but it's most likely a leak.

    If it's idling noticeable poor, try unplugging the MAF. Does the idle smooth out?
    If yes then it's a vacuum leak (low signal)
    If no then it's a boost leak (high signal)

    A Boost leak will generally only affect on throttle performance, but can also throw off the calculations in the ECM when decelerating and coming to a stop.

    You can check for leaks using carb cleaner:
    https://youtu.be/9CPqbaSgcok

    Or the cigar method:
    https://youtu.be/zMok2y05jNE

    Or my method:
    Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post
    If you're looking to test for boost leaks the easiest way I think of doing so is using a air compressor (or even a bike pump) on the hose that leads from the throttle inlet tube to the vacuum connection to the right of the intake manifold. What I do is:
    1. Remove this hose and duct tape to open port on the gated valve (ejector).

    2. Remove the intake pipe from the MAF and cover it with either duct tape or a 3" pipe test cap and use the hose clamp to secure it inplace.
    3. Remove the hose from the PTC on the intake pipe and cover the open port on the PTC with duct tape using the hose clamp to secure it inplace.

    4. Remove the oil filler cap
    5. Insert the compressor fitting into the 3/8" hose from the turbo inlet pipe and pressurize the system to 5psi - 10psi max.
    6. Listen for leaks and remedy any issues.
    You will naturally lose pressure through the system as the valves will leak, so if you hear any hissing from the oil filler cap or area and are noticing a slight pressure loss that's acceptable, but any other leaks should be easy to distinguish.

    This test excludes the PCV system. If you want to pressurize the whole system skip step 2-4, just make sure you keep the pressure to 5psi max as you will be pressurizing the block as well and will damage seals if too much pressure is applied.

    As for common leaks, I've noticed leaks where the injectors seal on the manifold (new seals and seats), from the IAT/MAP (used RTV to seal it), from the CBV cover, loose clamps, and split hoses

    Good Luck
    Smoke is the most effective and safest means of finding a leak. If you're a non-smoke, or just don't like the cigar method, you can DIY a paint can smoker for cheap and use it with my method. Here is my favorite DIY build.
    http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com...opic35820.html

    Obviously try to look all things over, there are quite a few places where vacuum leaks can occur that are not in plain view.

    Good Luck

    I am not sure if is related as well, but lately (noticed it since I replaced the MAF) the radiator fan will turn on when the car turns on, but it will ramp up to fully on and stay there until the car is turned off. I know there is a coolant leak/issue that I am looking for the leak. It will be fine for 2/3 weeks and then will eat 2 bottles of coolant (coolant low CEL, fill it to max, drive a day or two and it will need more). I have had the car running to keep the coolant pressurized and still cannot find a leak. I am going to try to pull the bumper this weekend to get a better look.
    If it's eating that much coolant the leak should be quite noticeable, the radiator end tanks are known to leak at the seam. If you were eating that much coolant internally you'd notice it for sure by now in the oil, white smoke out the exhaust, or a dead transmission.
    Last edited by Antherzoll; 08-05-2015 at 09:31 PM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Dalton, MA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    On the MAF, did you replace with Bosch or Volvo OEM (which is Bosch)? There are lots of aftermarkets electronics parts from China, I'm at 3 faulty part in 3 purchases including 2 MAFs for 01 V70 T5. The other one was a throttle position sensor for a Chrysler mini van.

    On your intermittent CEL, is it still P0101? or a new code?
    It is a Bosch part, brand new. Yes, the error code is still the P0101.

    On coolant loss, does temperature gauge act normal? (goes to middle quickly and stay there) I had mystery coolant loss before and was caused by bad thermostat. Instrument panel engine temp gauge needle would sit below typical. I guess it periodically got purged out of the overflow. After replacing thermostat, no more mystery loss and temp gauge shows normal. You might put a container at the end of the coolant overflow purge line and see if catch anything
    The temperature gauge shows normal, ramps as usual with the engine coming to temperature.

    P0101 -- ECM-1210 -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too high
    P0101 -- ECM-121B -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too low
    How would I check the ECM code to tell is too high/low? I thought it was P0101 was low and P0102 was high? (maybe I misread something someone when researching it).

    Your method seems very interesting Antherzoll, and I may have more questions for you on how you did it. I will try and see what works best for me this weekend when (if) I have to time to search for the cause.

    If it's eating that much coolant the leak should be quite noticeable, the radiator end tanks are known to leak at the seam. If you were eating that much coolant internally you'd notice it for sure by now in the oil, white smoke out the exhaust, or a dead transmission.
    Seems a little hopeful that is more likely to be a leak at the radiator and not internally. Don't have the money/time/tools for a head gasket/tranny leak at the moment.


    Thanks for the help. I will keep you updated with my results.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by YozenFrogurt View Post
    How would I check the ECM code to tell is too high/low? I thought it was P0101 was low and P0102 was high? (maybe I misread something someone when researching it).
    This is what i have for my cross reference.

    P0101 -- ECM-1210 -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too high
    P0101 -- ECM-121B -- Mass air flow sensor -- Flow too low
    P0102 -- ECM-121D -- Mass air flow sensor -- Signal too low
    P0103 -- ECM-121C -- Mass air flow sensor Signal too high

    Quote Originally Posted by YozenFrogurt View Post
    Seems a little hopeful that is more likely to be a leak at the radiator and not internally.
    Check everything.


    Hoses 15 and 30 go to the engine oil cooler which isn't pictured. The turbo also has coolant lines running to it.

    Coolant also runs through the PCV.


    Watet pump and heater core as well.
    Last edited by Antherzoll; 08-07-2015 at 04:59 AM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    11

    Default

    how did you fix the problem...?

    ECM1210 MAF Flow too high
    ECM-121C MAF Signal too high

    2 codes keep poping up... I did add a ground cable from MAF socket (pin 3 - center). It did not work.

    Please help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    521

    Default

    You could try to clean your MAF? I think RobertDIY has a video on youtube.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    You could try to clean your MAF? I think RobertDIY has a video on youtube.
    Codes are either 1210 MAF flow too high or 120C MAF signal too high, or sometime pop up together...

    I have done below, but problem not solved yet...
    1. New air filter
    2. New MAF
    3. Add ground cable from MAF socket

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    521

    Default

    Huh...

    Did you pull those codes using a VIDA/DiCE setup attached to your OBDII port?
    Once a code is registered, you can click on that code and VIDA will help you troubleshoot, giving you a number of things to check out to determine the cause of the code.

    Sorry, I don't have any experience with those MAF codes. I've heard it said that you can check to see if your MAF is working properly by unplugging your MAF cable while car is idling. If MAF is good, the engine should "stumble" a little bit.

    Are you noticing any performance issues?
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

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