Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ft. Worth, TX
    Posts
    16

    Default 02 XC70 Transmission Flush From Bottom

    I was (am) underneath the front end replacing the driver's side fog lamp and found pulling the plastic bits pretty easy.
    While I wait for delivery of the fog lamp I am also doing all the brakes and planning a transmission flush.
    I found (and have now lost) a thread about pulling the lower tranny line from the radiator/cooler instead of the top, but I think it was for a different year model.
    Since I have all that plastic out of the way, is it easier (less messy) to pull the bottom line and slip a tube over the line than to get a tube to stick in the radiator?
    If so, is there any vacuum in the system that will keep the radiator from dumping when I pull the line or should I wear goggles and a snorkel while doing so?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    91

    Default

    I've always used a fiber reinforced clear hose pushed in the top port on the radiator. I think it's 5/8 inch. I have about 10 feet that I run into a container that I watch when flushing the fluid. I pump about 3 quarts out and then stop and refill. Pretty easy and only lose a few drops when pushing the transmission line back in.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Andover, MN
    Posts
    230

    Default

    You being in Texas I would cut the top hose, do the fluid transfer and add an ATX cooler to those hoses you cut. Mount that in front and keep things cool. That is exactly what I did and I am in Minnesota where we only get 10 hot days a year. Never heard of an ATX failing because it was to cold.
    TomK
    2006 xc70 Blue/tan 160,000 miles
    2002 BMW 530i Sterling/Black 97,000 miles
    2001 Mazda Millenia Sand Mica/Tan 190,000 miles
    2003 VW Passat 1.8T 146,000 miles

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    You can pull either line. Pulling the bottom line results in spillage of about 8 oz of fluid from the trans cooler, but the hose slips over the line. That's the way that I do it...

    I've added a cooler in the return line on the XC. I've added a cooler with thermostat and a spin-on filter in the return line on the T5. Time will tell if they make any difference, but the plumbing is relatively straightforward...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Astro,

    What cooler and thermostat did you use?
    PDX-Vancouver, USA

    2005 XC70 140,000

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Derale 13011 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit
    Derale 25750 Remote Filter Mount Kit
    B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler

    Had to use about 5 feet of hose to complete the routing. Fluid goes from Trans to radiator to return line/spliced to filter. Filter to thermostat. From thermostat to both cooler and return line into trans pan.

    So, as fluid flows out, it gets warmed/cooled by coolant, then goes through filter. Above 80C, it goes to B&M cooler. Below that, the filtered fluid goes back to the transmission. I used a K&N filter, a big one, but don't remember which size. The Derale filter mount fits a wide variety of filters...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	350 
Size:	90.6 KB 
ID:	7138Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	335 
Size:	88.6 KB 
ID:	7137Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	338 
Size:	88.4 KB 
ID:	7139Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	336 
Size:	92.0 KB 
ID:	7140

    From left to right: the cooler mounted below the bumper, the filter, the filter with thermostat in view, and the plumbing by the radiator.

    Some notes: I removed the bumper for access. I mounted the cooler in front of the condenser and intercooler to get the best/cool air. I used some aluminum bar stock, heated just enough to bend easily, that I pop-riveted into the bumper mount to mount the cooler. I did the same with the thermostat. I bolted the filter mount into the frame itself, and used a nut captured in a wrench. I slid the wrench into the frame so that the nut was on the inside, and the bolt went in from the outside. I also used lock-tite to prevent those bolts from ever loosening.

    I routed the lines so that there were minimal bends. I shot every bolt with some zinc primer to prevent rust. I used stainless steel crimp (Oetiker) hose clamps - far, far faster and cheaper than worm-type screw clamps. Took 10 clamps. The routing took the hoses close to the fog lamps. The cooler, filter, lines and hardware took nearly 2 quarts of fluid to get back up to the proper level. It should be easy to remove the plastic guard under the bumper (one screw) to get at the filter and the filter was mounted so that a filter wrench would be an easy swing to get it on/off.
    Last edited by Astro14; 05-20-2015 at 11:28 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I love Oetiker clamps but getting the torque to squeeze them in tight locations is nigh impossible.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    I've since changed the transmission filter on this set up, and it was easier than the oil filter on the car. A bit of fluid dripping (horizontal mount, can't help it) but it comes off and goes on easily and the wrench fits easily with good access. I did a drain and fill of the fluid, which was perfectly red and clear. I'll do another D&F next oil change and a flush/fluid exchange in another 15,000 miles.

    182,000 on the car and the original, much-maligned, 2002 AW-55 transmission shifts perfectly. The car is being driven by my 20 year old son in Virginia now, but I had it in Colorado through last winter and it shifted perfectly even in 0 degree (F) weather. The set up keeps the fluid from being too cold, as it gets warmed by the radiator, then cooled if needed via the thermostat. I really think that this is the ideal set up for both longevity and performance - but the extra expense probably keeps most manufacturers from this level of effort.

    On an interesting technical note: the transmission on my new Tundra has a thermostat for the cooler line. It doesn't open until about 120F and the cooler is BIG. It's a plate type, over two feet across, ten inches high, and sits in front of the condenser. The lines appear to route directly to the cooler, no loop through the radiator (the truck only has a thousand miles on it, so I've not spent a lot of time under it, just a bit of time checking things out). To flush/exchange the fluid, or even to check the level of the fluid (there is no dipstick) requires pushing in a plunger on the transmission and pinning it in place which keeps the thermostat open so that the fluid is flowing through the cooling loop.

    On a truck designed to tow (9,500# capacity, unless you're pulling the Space Shuttle for promotional reasons), Toyota has adopted a very similar setup to this one, sized up for greater capacity. I may add a spin on filter one day, but from the factory, it's a serious cooler.

    It also comes with an engine oil cooler, but that's another topic...
    Last edited by Astro14; 09-14-2016 at 04:43 AM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14
    From left to right: the cooler mounted below the bumper, the filter, the filter with thermostat in view, and the plumbing by the radiator. (...)
    Astro, thank you SO much for posting this. I have a 90 mile 2005 XC70, and have only recently installed a hitch. Was looking for a good aftermarket cooling solution; you have clearly done this right. Very helpful, especially with parts numbers etc.

    Regards,
    Duncan

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •