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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,063

    Default Voltage Regulator (Brush Pack) Replacement

    Been noticing a very slight rapid but random flutter with the head lights and dome lights at idle, did a run around on my vehicle and decide that it could be attributed to the brush pack on the alternator. Was not having any other issues with the system, battery was charging, ground have a good connection, and the voltage drop was within the acceptable range >0.1 volts from battery to B+. I haven't check the system since the replacement (kid's nap time and other holiday hang-ups), just started the vehicle and it runs and is supplying ~14.2VDC to the battery.

    The replacement was quite easy, totaling 1.5h in time. I purchased the brush pack from IPD as I couldn't find one for cheaper with shipping anywhere else, but also didn't have the time to price hunt. The brush pack can be replace with the alternator on the vehicle.

    Tools/Material Required:
    - Ratchet wrench, Extensions, Swivel Joint.
    - Side cutting pliers
    - Metric Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, 13mm)
    - T60 Torx bit or Serpentine tensioner tool.
    - 8" or longer Philips Screwdriver
    - Black zip ties
    - New O-ring for the dip stick pipe end.
    - Brush Pack

    Remove:
    - Disconnect the battery!
    - The upper intake air duct: The air duct leading to the air cleaner housing. Should pull out quite easily from the air box and from the front duct.
    - Over the engine charge air pipe: I'm using the IPD silicone pipe, so one pipe clamp at the intercooler then fold it out of the way
    - Oil dip stick pipe: 8mm bolt on the intake manifold and the work the other end out of the block while pulling up. Retrive the O-ring from the opening if it didn't come out with the pipe.
    - Power Steering Pump: Remove the serpentine belt from the pump then there are 3x10mm bolts that mount the pump to the accessory bracket, have to access them from the openings on the pulley. The pumps does not need to be disconnect, this is just to allow for some flexibility in the feed pipe to gain better access to the brush pack.
    - Radiator Fan: Disconnect the electrical connector from the top of the fan. 2 - 8mm bolts on the top corners of the cowling. Cut off any zip tie that may be supporting the wire looms and push the loom out of the way. Relocate the expansion tank return line from the top of the cowling out of the way. The radiator fan/cowl should pull straight up fairly easy.

    By now there is enough access to the back of the alternator to work on the brush pack. I'll inset this video here. Not mine but gives you an idea of how to work around the alternator.


    Here's a pic of the alternator in place once everything is removed including the top cover.


    - To access the philips screw for the top cover you're going to need the long philips screwdriver and reach around in behind the throttle body to get at it. The rest of the hardware is quite easy to get at.
    - The voltage regulator has one wire with stake-on connector that can be pulled straight out.
    - There are 2 plastic caps on the posts of the alternator that need to be removed.
    - The B+ cable is mounted to the alternator with a 13mm nut, once remover there is another 13mm nut on the same post that mounts the regulator to the B+ post (shown in video).

    As always, installation is opposite of removal , here are some pic comparing the new and old brush pack. The brushes on the old one were worn compared to the new brush pack.



    Hope someone finds this helpful. I'll update on the status of my issue once i get more time on it.
    Last edited by Antherzoll; 12-27-2014 at 09:12 AM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Wonder for how long will bearings outlast voltage regulator?.. When "low battery" appeared on wife's 2002 V70 with a new and mighty AGM battery 3 years ago, I went with remanufactured alternator. It had very noisy bearing from the beginning, but I still have old (and quiet) Bosch unit. Might have those old bearings replaced while alternator is out on the shelf...
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    Wonder for how long will bearings outlast voltage regulator?.. When "low battery" appeared on wife's 2002 V70 with a new and mighty AGM battery 3 years ago, I went with remanufactured alternator. It had very noisy bearing from the beginning, but I still have old (and quiet) Bosch unit. Might have those old bearings replaced while alternator is out on the shelf...
    Yes, I agree. When I replaced my shorted alternator this summer at 350K kms, the bearings were definitely noisy. Its been my admittedly limited experience that a brush replacement is a short term fix before the bearings start getting loud enough that they signal a replacement of the whole thing. Now what does short term mean? In one case it was less than 10K, in another, it was still going strong when I got rid of the car 30K or so later.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,133

    Default

    Outstanding write up. Very helpful. Just one consideration: If the alternator is already on the bench, I would prefer to take the additional step of replacing bearings. Different skill level of course, but then it goes back into service for another 100,000 miles...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Greater DC
    Posts
    202

    Default

    I replaced just the regulator at 170 kmiles. The bearings... they might or might not outlast the car.

    Another thing, I saw a write-ups somewhere that describes replacing regulator without unbolting alternator. One has to work mostly by touch, but that is totally possible if one can look at the photos like Antherzoll posted here.
    =======================
    2003 XC70
    193,000 miles / first owner

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    149

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pelagikos View Post
    Another thing, I saw a write-ups somewhere that describes replacing regulator without unbolting alternator. One has to work mostly by touch, but that is totally possible if one can look at the photos like Antherzoll posted here.
    It is 100% possible to do this in-place, but note that Antherzoll's post was also done without removing the alternator! The video was just for reference. I posted my similar write-up here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=9&t=51058 , but some people find it easier to remove entirely. For me I didn't want to screw with moving my PS pump so was willing to contort my hands a little to do this in-place. I think it depends a little on how much you trust yourself (i.e. for me I wanted to disturb as little as possible, better mechanics might have more trust in themselves ;-) ).
    Last edited by coflynn; 12-22-2014 at 09:08 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    278

    Default

    I just did mine last week along with the alternator pulley because it was going bad (171k KM). Did you check your alternator pulley Antherzoll? I'm surprised that the pulley was gone bad at 170k KM (I cracked the pulley open to find out the inside got all rusted). The regulator I took out looked similar to yours (the 2 brushes sticks with 1 shorter than the other) but my car didn't have any of the signs you mentioned. Now that I've read this thread, I realised that I should have replaced the bearings as well while the alternator was out.
    Great write-up!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,063

    Thumbs up

    So still noticing a slight fluttering at idle... Going to look into this a bit further in the new year. Oh well, I wasn't hard to swap out, at least I got you guys a nice "how to".Was going to reload the stock ECU software before replacing the brush pack but never got around to it. Will be re-loading to stock shortly as I'm getting a revised tune, be interesting to see if the software is causing this.
    Last edited by Antherzoll; 12-30-2014 at 09:04 AM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Greater DC
    Posts
    202

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Antherzoll View Post
    So still noticing a slight fluttering at idle...
    My car has had slight fluttering at idle since it was brand spanking new.
    At the time I was parking in a murky underground garage, where the lights would reflect from other cars, and the fluttering was readily noticeable. I remember, because I was concerned about it, but never bother to investigate further.

    Now, in a carport, there is nothing shiny in front of the car to reflect from, so I don't even notice.

    My point, the fluttering at idle is probably normal on this car.
    =======================
    2003 XC70
    193,000 miles / first owner

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pelagikos View Post
    My point, the fluttering at idle is probably normal on this car.
    Yeah that was my initial thought, I get really bored with myself if there isn't something to fix on my car

    Most other cars I've driven have quite stable lighting at idle unless the electrical system is loaded by fans, windows or defrosters. I could care less about the head lights, but I find it quite annoying when trying to read something at idle. If I do not find a remedy for it, I wonder if going with LEDs for the interior lights would help instead of the incandescent ones.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

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