switch from Nivomat to non-nivomat

[Swaneez]

Anyone out there have any second thoughts about replacing the worn-out Nivomats with more reasonably priced Bilsten or Sachs etc? I would't ask but I occasionally pull a 1000# sailboat, and wonder if there is some problem with rear-end sag under loaded situations. It never bothered me in other cars but the primadonna nature of the Volvo causes me to ask around.

[JRL]

You can't

[Swaneez]

aftermarkets wont fit? even with duct tape?

[hoonk]

Weaker springs are used with nivomat shocks so the rear end will be at the wrong ride height with regular shocks. It might be possible to replace the springs with some used ones, but have never tried on that kind of Volvo. Used to do it all the time on live axle 760s when those nivomats went bad - 740 springs and shocks worked great.

[mctee]

I have had success in locating Nivomat's in decent shape at the wreckers. It is always going to be a bit of a risk pulling used shocks but at CDN$9.99 each from my local Pick n Pull, it is well worth the risk!

My 1990 V70 XC has 354,000 kms (approx 220,000 miles) on it. No note of rear shock replacement in the very complete service records and judging by their outward appearance, were likely original.
Quick visual check at bottom of rubber boot / lower mount, showed that the driver's side was leaking badly. Proved my seat-of-the-pants assessment!

I pulled a pair from a wrecked 1999 V70 XC in September. I determined mileage on the car (just over 200,000 kms) by running VIN thru Province of BC Aircare web site. Outward visual appearance was very good compared to mine but again, driver's side was leaking.

Blown shocks are easy to ID: oily mess at bottom of the rubber boot plus easily compressed with your body weight. A good, non-blown/leaking shock will be impossible to compress with your hands/body weight.

Anyway, dropped my originals out, discarded my blown shock and set aside the "new" leaking one I had.
In a very unscientific comparison, I tested the effort to compress both of the "good", non-leaking shocks by setting them up to be compressed with a 6' 2"x6". Placed the end of the 2x6 on my belly and leaned full weight on it. I was just watching for speed of compression and speed of rebound. Both looked similar / even so I reinstalled on my car.
I noted immediately that left side rear wheel damping control was greatly improved vs. my original blown/leaking shock!

So not new Nivomat shocks but the rear damping is better vs. what is was. All for CDN$20!

A couple more notes:
Watch the Pick n Pull Row 54 web site for newly wrecked V70 XC's.
I just pulled one more shock last week from a 2000 V70 XC in VERY GOOD condition for a spare. Yet again, the drivers side was leaking blown. This is the third one I have seen like this so it seems like a pretty consistent failure for some reason.
Check IPD's site on matching Nivomat shock codes to your vehicle's VIN / ID plate inside engine compartment left fender well. Look at wrecked car to match this shock digit.
Shocks are pretty simple to drop a wrecker but make sure that the wreck is high enough to drop the shock out! At my local wrecker, I can dig enough gravel away to drop the shock. If you can't or the wreck is on a hard surface, take a bottle jack to raise the control arm/compress the rear suspension.
For a little work you can correct or improve the rear damping. In comparison, a western Canadian indy Volvo specialist quoted me $200 ea for two used Nivomat shocks of uncertain mileage. So $10 ea (or $20 ea if they decide to charge you their "air shock" description) at PnP is a great solution.