Since we are sort of imputing the problems, then I would go with this approach: start with the cheapest and work your way up the cost ladder...
1. B4 cover - about $30 and takes about 30 minutes the first time, 5 minutes the second time. Howard has a great description, I'll add that it takes some pressure to get it back in and place the retaining ring.
2. Fluid exchange. Do it all. Takes about 14 QTs and you'll need the O-rings to seal the line back into the radiator. About $100. Use Mobil 3309, or Toyota T-IV.
3. Valve body. About $500 for someone else to rebuild yours. Add another $100 for the dealer to put it in adapt mode. Read through my notes on how that works. You can do just the solenoid replacement, but if the SLT solenoid bore is worn, it will need to be re-sleeved (Sonnax makes a kit, and a rebuilder will have the tools to install that). So, solenoids alone might work, but I would go with the rebuild because of that bore wear.
4. Complete rebuild. About $3 - 6,000 depending on who does the work.
When it shifts smoothly, you're good. Let's hope that happens before you get to step 4...but if it's been banging hard enough to chirp the tires, you likely have a lot of wear taking place...
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
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2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
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