2002 XC70 Transmission solenoid REPAIR success!

[Astro14]

Hey guys I need to do this. Do I need to remove the subframe to get the cover off of the trans? Also how do you set the transmission in adaptation mode? Any help would be great. thanks

To answer your questions directly:

1. You have to move the subframe a bit to get the cover off.

2. Adapt mode can only be done with VIDA.

Read through this: http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/h...ment-Notes.pdf

Why do you think you need to do this? What are your symptoms? What have you done so far?

[sexton7z]

Astro14 the quick answer is my car is hanging up on the 2-3 shift and then sometimes its banging hard enough to chirp the tires. The three - four shift is doing close to the same. I saw a video on youtube talking about the b-4 servo sticking causing the same symptoms. They show the removal of the b-4 servo and then just kinda wipe it off and stick it back in. Go figure? Now I don't know which direction to go with it. The car has 237,000 miles on it, and still gets between 27.5 and 29 miles per gallon on the open road if you don't push her, I just rebuilt the front end and had it aligned and put four tires on it. I just don't know if its worth the effort. I have found the solenoids new on ebay for around $130 bucks. There' s also a servo kit on there with a new cover and o rings for $30. But if I would have to buy the vida and its software that is another story.

[howardc64]

Astro14 the quick answer is my car is hanging up on the 2-3 shift and then sometimes its banging hard enough to chirp the tires. The three - four shift is doing close to the same. I saw a video on youtube talking about the b-4 servo sticking causing the same symptoms. They show the removal of the b-4 servo and then just kinda wipe it off and stick it back in. Go figure? Now I don't know which direction to go with it. The car has 237,000 miles on it, and still gets between 27.5 and 29 miles per gallon on the open road if you don't push her, I just rebuilt the front end and had it aligned and put four tires on it. I just don't know if its worth the effort. I have found the solenoids new on ebay for around $130 bucks. There' s also a servo kit on there with a new cover and o rings for $30. But if I would have to buy the vida and its software that is another story.

B4 servo is pretty easy once you've done it. For first timers, can be PITA. Here are some tips

0. Jack up the front end and take off the driver side wheel for first timers. Space helps. With experience, just turning the wheel all the way right yields enough space.

1. Cover is only bad if internal washer has broken loose on pinch weld. Of course you can only see this after removal. The loose cover then allows play to the internal piston riding against it. Other side of the piston is to supply spring pressure against a brake (B4) band I believe. Here is a pic of failed washer. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...art=10#p343176

2. The cover has to be pressed in slightly (note the internal piston has a spring on it, will feel this spring pressure when pressing the cover in) while removing the circlip. Guy in this youtube video made a smart jig that maintains compression pressure on the cover while getting the circlip off and back on. Can be much harder using Volvo's directions (screw driver leveraged on a shaft to apply compression pressure with one hand while the other hand work the circlip plier) The circlip plier has to be the squeezing rather than expansion type. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGOv1y603-A

3. When you remove the cover, be careful the internal piston don't fall out (piston pictured in link in #1) I often just remove it for safety, you can also put a bucket with bottom facing up with a towel on it so if drops, don't hit anything hard. I suppose some duct tape on the opening after cover is removed can help too. Just make sure you don't get sticky glue onto the piston. A little bit of ATF will come out, not much but enough to make your hand all slippery and job harder on the reinstall. Just clean it all off with a towel.

4. You'll get 3 o-rings with the new cover kit. Only 2 goes on the cover despite the new cover looking like it has 3 o-ring grooves (no o-ring on the center groove or cover won't go in if one is there, ask me how I know haha) Compared with old cover for reference on where to apply the o-ring. The 3rd supplied o-ring is for replacing the o-ring on the piston. Lubed the o-rings before install of course.

On these trannys, I always replace B4 servo cover with the new design just to eliminate this problem source. So its worth doing. But as hard as the shift you describe, maybe not save you from a solenoid and/or valvebody reconditioning. I also wonder at 240k miles, how much life is left in the mechanical gear system beyond the valvebody (which just to actuate/modulate hydraulic pressure to cause the mechanical clutch/band/gear system to shift)

[Astro14]

Since we are sort of imputing the problems, then I would go with this approach: start with the cheapest and work your way up the cost ladder...

1. B4 cover - about $30 and takes about 30 minutes the first time, 5 minutes the second time. Howard has a great description, I'll add that it takes some pressure to get it back in and place the retaining ring.

2. Fluid exchange. Do it all. Takes about 14 QTs and you'll need the O-rings to seal the line back into the radiator. About $100. Use Mobil 3309, or Toyota T-IV.

3. Valve body. About $500 for someone else to rebuild yours. Add another $100 for the dealer to put it in adapt mode. Read through my notes on how that works. You can do just the solenoid replacement, but if the SLT solenoid bore is worn, it will need to be re-sleeved (Sonnax makes a kit, and a rebuilder will have the tools to install that). So, solenoids alone might work, but I would go with the rebuild because of that bore wear.

4. Complete rebuild. About $3 - 6,000 depending on who does the work.

When it shifts smoothly, you're good. Let's hope that happens before you get to step 4...but if it's been banging hard enough to chirp the tires, you likely have a lot of wear taking place...

[antwerx]

Hi all. New to the forum and this solenoid post is very timely!

My '02 has the shift flare problem and I will be moving down the path to fix as described here.

I see that a software upgrade is suggested. Is there a way to see what software is currently installed;without being hooked up to a VIDA?

Thanks.

[howardc64]

I see that a software upgrade is suggested. Is there a way to see what software is currently installed;without being hooked up to a VIDA?

I don't think there is a way.

Volvo did start offering complimentary software upgrades starting in 2015. Suppose to be free with any service. Some dealers require 30k while others require just an oil change. You might inquire your local dealer on their policy. http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/answer...rvice-by-volvo

[antwerx]

Thank you for the suggestion! I'll surely check this out with my local dealer.

[JRL]

"demanding" a 30K service is illegal
it is strictly written any "service" will do but you must ask for a service, not just an oil change

[antwerx]

Thank you JRL.

I'll be calling the dealership tomorrow. I'll also be ordering the B4 cover kit and giving that a go.

Thanks for all the input.

[antwerx]

Hey all. I replying to give feedback as I try to eliminate this trans shift flare issue.

So following the info on the thread here.
1. I've been doing the trans easy trans fluid dump, not the full on evacuate method, with each oil change. Twice now.
2. Put the solenoid cap replacement on.

None of this has helped the shift flares. So...now I'm looking to do the Rostra solenoid replacement step. I don't have a great work area so am a bit hesitant to do the other solenoid rebuild option that is cheaper but needs grinding etc.

So once I do this next step I'll reply to report what my results are.

If anyone has a strong opinion about the solenoids; replace vs. rebuild I'd like to hear them.

Thanks for all the info!