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2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes
Well, I replaced the power steering rack. I got one of eBay for $75. If it looked bad I would flip for a rebuild. It came, and looked GREAT. Compared to mine which was rusted and looked gross. This one had no rust and all the lines looked great. My original one, the lines were looking corroded. Checked it out, and seemed good. Installed it and it works great. Flushed the system and all is good. This is a PITA job which involves supporting the engine and lowering the sub frame. I did have the issue of the steering column bearing and rubber boot coming loose. After reading that Howard had the same issue, it was easily solved (Thanks Howard).
Here are some photos of my make sift engine support (I added a 2x4 after this photo as it was sagging a bit), and what I found on my power steering rack, after I removed it. There were no leaks from it or in the boots. But I did find the plastic stop on one end was shattered and the other one had a crack. So did the shop that put the new inner tie rods do this, or what happened. Are these known to break. So a thought process is this broke and caused the car to be able to be oversteered and this somehow wrecked the rack?
Under the car I noticed it's leaking oil (Blah. I have the PVC oil trap cleanup on my list) and the right CV axle is spaying grease even though there is no tear in the boot.
I feel like I've been living under that car for a few weeks.
Last edited by guymon; 04-19-2014 at 08:19 PM.
2001 V70XC 150k
hey, nice makeshift engine torque bar I'd imagine 2 pieces sitting vertically might offer more secure feel or a big 4x4 I got a harbor freight engine support bar on sale and have used a few times since. Quite handy on these Euro cars that often require subframe drops. Use it 3x now for the rack job, removing the valvebody, and removed a VW MK4 tranny to replace a torque convertor.
On the CV axle, I also had a leak as well on the driver side before, i just crimped the clamp ears a bit tighter and it stopped. Here is the thread.
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...ailed-CV-clamp
On the plastic ends on the rack... mine looked pretty clean on 2 cars when I did the inner tie rods. I would guess the last replacement might be the source of damage.
At 130k miles, I think you are almost out of living under the car haha...
Past Volvos : 01 V70 T5, 01/02 V70XC, 02 V70 NA, 00 V70XC
Current EV/Hybrid : 13 Tesla S85, 11 Gen3 Prius
Friends cars under my care 17 Audi A4 Quattro DSG (B9) 05 Audi A4 Manual 6sp Quattro (B7) 04 e320 V6 Auto, 05 Accord 2.4, 08 Element 2.4, 08 Camry Hybrid
Past Others : 01/03 VW MK4 Turbo/NA/01M. Gen1 Prius, Gen1 CRV, Gen2 Rav4, 02 Town&Country, 06 Corolla, 12 Audi A4 Quattro (B8), 07 Civic 1.6
https://sites.google.com/view/howardsvolvos
Howard, I think my CV axle is doing the same as yours was. I'll tighten that up. Thanks.
2001 V70XC 150k
Mine too. When I noticed that, we had some hot days in MA. CV boot was ok, no tears, but the boot was ballooned, like it had some pressure inflating the boot. I think it got more air when I worked on LCA bushings, accidentally split outer CV joint and put everything back.
Interestingly, I have a new driver's side axle - from Empi - which has boots made of very thin and soft rubber. This winter I was under the car and noticed that boots were collapsed (not round): lower barometric pressure inside the boots.
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