Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default Intermittant No Start after 15 minutes

    I have a wonderful 2000 XC70 that I've owned since new. Kind of a rare bright red/tan interior combo. The car has only 87K miles and all original paint with no rust ever. My problem occurred when it got harder to start than usual. Brought it to the local Volvo dealer and they replaced a corroded wiring harness off the battery. Still hard to start. So back to the dealer and diagnosed low fuel rail pressure. Instead of replacing the fuel pump (and dropping the fuel tank) I opted for the check valve in fuel line fix. Good pressure now but... now if the car is driven and sits say 15/20 minutes, it will crank but not start. Back to the dealer who replaced the immobilizer ring and reprogrammed the key. Still...it is essentially doing the same thing. Runs perfectly and idles great when it starts but has a consistent problem when it sits for 15 or so minutes and then won't want to fire. I've tried different keys with the same result. Is it the immobilizer again? I love the car but it has to be more reliable. Thanks for any insight. (I even bought a scanner to read the fault codes but haven't received it yet.) Pat

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    If the fuel pressure drops too much after the car is turned off (possibly due to a bad fuel pump check valve) the engine will spins over a long time until the fuel pressure builds up enough to deliver enough fuel for the engine to start. On some Volvos an easy test is to cycle the key to the ignition position several times for a second before engaging the starter (the fuel pump runs for a second until it determines there is no engine movement. If the engine starts up easier you have fuel pressure leaking down. Of course you could test the fuel pressure with a gauge also.

    When cold a much richer mixture is sprayed (longer injection time) so the problem is not as pronounced.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Thanks for the info. I did have a new check valve installed in the fuel line (near the fuell filter) by the dealer and they reported good and consistent fuel pressure. Curiously, that is when the problem began. Before that, the car would always start although it too a slightly longer crank time. Now it won't start after a while not running. Maybe the dealer was just wrong. Apart from buying a fuel pressure gauge, how else could you tell? It's not the fuel pump relay as I hear the fuel pump engage once the key is turned. Thanks again.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bassp01 View Post
    how else could you tell? I hear the fuel pump engage once the key is turned.

    cycle the key to the ignition position several times for a second before engaging the starter, If the engine starts up easier you may have no residual fuel pressure.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    I will test that approach. I did have a new check valve that was installed near the fuel filter. That was suppose to keep the fuel pressure an was confirmed by the dealer. I wonder if the check valve is constricting the fuel delivery now. This problem never occured prior to the valve install. I may just have to eat the cost of a new fuel pump and labor. Thx, Pat

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    OK. Update after I paid to have a new fuel pump installed by the dealer. No trouble codes registered. Extra check valve near fuel pump still installed. Fuel filter was not replaced. Car ran fine for a day or two until I shut it off for 10-15 minutes and guess what? It turned over but didn't start! I waited 5 or so minutes and it started right up! Is the extra check valve getting in the way on fuel pressure or is there a heat soak electrical problem somewhere else. I should change the fuel filter and will do so but the problem STILL persists. What's wrong?? Any help appreciated. Pat

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    New pump, remove the extra check valve
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bassp01 View Post
    Car ran fine for a day or two until I shut it off for 10-15 minutes and guess what? It turned over but didn't start! I waited 5 or so minutes and it started right up! - or is there a heat soak electrical problem somewhere else.
    I wish there was a way for you to test your rest pressure to eliminate that - but -

    For your heat soak question you've not mentioned the Fuel pump relay -

    I've replaced many fuel pump relays (9434225) for a no start sometimes problem. Solder connections crack where the tiny wires that power the solenoid for the relay are soldered to the circuit board. Takes a strong magnifing (sp) glass to see the cracks. When the relay gets hot from use the cracks expand, creating a high resistance/poor connection and the relay won't stay closed when attempting a restart with a hot relay. Once the relay cools back down it will work again. If you have a tiny solder iron I've seen lots of relays with attempted/possibly sucessful repairs.

    It should be a red relay, marked 103, located next to the fuses under the hood. (undo the 4 screws to get the cover off )

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Thanks for the good advise. I had the dealer replace the fuel pump relay and he mentioned it was perhaps too hot when removed, so maybe a sign of overheating. So far the car runs fine and we'll see if that was the culprit of the intermitant starts. FYI. Sarasota Volvo and their service manager Joe Rice, have been really a great dealer and service department to deal with. They even replaced this part free of charge. I recommend them!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    15

    Default

    The dealer felt the check valve didn't hurt anything and instead replaced the fuel pump relay. Any concerns with the check valve still in place? Pat

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •