PCV inspection/cleaning does not always work - lesson learned hard way

**Tahoe_XC** · 12-02-2013, 10:41 PM

I just bought this 2006 XC70 to fix for as a new-2-me daily driver and thought I would share with forum from the previous owners records as insight into PCV maintenance as some posts suggest you can inspect/clean the PCV while others suggest to replace. Personally, I like replace... but I think the dealer invoices also documents other areas of the motor to inspect when servicing your PCV.

The following is the cars services history:

Mileage: 30K, 60K Service Performed by Dealer w/ 7.5K intervals performed either by dealer or Jiffy Lube

Mileage: 93.8K Service performed by Dealer 90K service ($1K) - portion specific to PCV: NOTED AT SERVICE PCV HOSE SPLIT, LEAKING
Fix: OPCODE EI72 Crankcase Ventilation, Inspect / Clean (in conjunction with service)
OPCODE 93814 REPLACED BROKEN BREATHER BOX HOSE (BREATHER BOX TO CAM COVER)

Mileage: 94K - 110K Oil Changes performed at intervals by Jiffy Lube

Mileage: 110.3K Diagnosis performed by Dealer Per Invoice: CUSTOMER STATES LOW OIL LIGHT CAME ON, CUSTOMER HAD OIL CHANGED. THEN WHILE DRIVING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND TAILPIPE STARTED SMOKING, BLUE SMOKE COMING OUT EXHAUST

OPCODE 110388 TURBOCHARGER DAMAGED. POSSIBLE INTERNAL ENGINE DAMAGE FROM RUNNING VEHICLE WITHOUT OIL. OIL LEVEL CURRENTLY OK AT TIME OF CHECK OUT. OUR RECORDS INDICATE LAST OIL CHANGE PERFORMED AT THIS FACILITY WAS OVER 16,500 MILES AGO. SEVERE SMOKE COMING OUT OF EXHAUST. PCV SYSTEM NOT WORKING OR UNABLE TO KEEP UP WITH CRANK CASE PRESSURE. INSPECTED VEHICLE. FOUND OIL LEAKING BETWEEN TURBO CHARGER AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER FLANGE. ALSO NOTED LIQUID OIL LEAKING FROM MID SECTION OF EXHAUST PARTING FLANGE AND OUT OF TAIL PIPE. REMOVED TURBO DRAIN TUBE, CAN SEE SIGNS OF OIL SLUDGE IN TURBO. DRAIN PIPE IS FREE OF DEBRIS. TURBO IS DAMAGED. OIL LEAKING FROM TURBO HAS ALSO LIKELY DAMAGED CATALYTIC CONVERTER AND BOTH OXYGEN SENSORS. NEED TO REMOVE OIL PAIN AND INSPECT CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS AND FOR SIGNS OF SLUDGE IN PICK UP TUBE, BOTTOM OF OIL PAN, AND CRANK CASE VENTILATION PASSAGES IN BLOCK. RECOMMEND COMPRESSION AND LEAK DOWN TEST TO TRY AND DETERMINE OVERALL HEALTH OF ENGINE

ESTIMATE: CATALYTIC CONVERTER, O2 SENSORS, & TURBO CHARGER $4,700.93
PCV SYSTEM AND BOX $1,100.57
MAY NEED FURTHER ENGINE REPAIRS $?,???

I will keep the forum posted on my progress on this one... could be a while... good thing my 01 & 04 still run like champs (with replaced PCV's)

**JRL** · 12-03-2013, 05:42 AM

The problem was multi-fold,
NEVER use Jiffy Lube, ALWAYS use a Volvo oil filter, use SYNTHETIC, change oil at less than 7500 miles plus I think there were more issues than just a cracked upper breather line that were never repaired

**Tahoe_XC** · 12-03-2013, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by JRL

The problem was multi-fold,
NEVER use Jiffy Lube, ALWAYS use a Volvo oil filter, use SYNTHETIC, change oil at less than 7500 miles plus I think there were more issues than just a cracked upper breather line that were never repaired

Myself not a Jiffy Lube customer, as I have no problem changing my own oil. However, if the human element is done correctly w/ properly calibrated bulk dispenser should not be a problem. I agree synthetics are superior and should be used religiously.

Also agree multiple things going on here... what strikes me is for a dealer major serviced car that had the PCV inspected, cleaned, and elements replaced that this got to this point. I believe it highlights to forum readers that one is not advised to clean or piece meal the PCV system. As JRL points out there were other issues that were never identified and repaired. Makes me wonder about the dealer, which for those whom don't twist wrenches but look to the forum for insight challenge your mechanic when he suggests PCV issues.

**Astro14** · 12-03-2013, 01:04 PM

I am pretty certain that the Jiffy Lube bulk did not meet specs for this engine. They found sludge in the turbo. That can only mean that 1. The oil did not meet specs or 2. That it was run for too long between changes. These are both facets of the same issue: the oil's ability to handle heat and contamination was exceeded. See my previous discussion here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...19629-Oil-Rant

**sjonnie** · 12-03-2013, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by Tahoe_XC

30K, 60K Service Performed by Dealer w/ 7.5K intervals performed either by dealer or Jiffy Lube.
Mileage: 94K - 110K Oil Changes performed at intervals by Jiffy Lube

Killed it. You cannot use dino oil in these engines, even the semi-syn the dealer puts in will gunk them up eventually. Synthetic (0W30 or 0W40) is all you should use.

**sjonnie** · 12-03-2013, 04:10 PM

Originally Posted by Tahoe_XC

However, if the human element is done correctly w/ properly calibrated bulk dispenser should not be a problem.

In theory yes, but the standard oil change at the Jiffy Lube is up to 5qts of oil, these engines need 6qts. The Jiffy Lube guys don't know that, so unless you specifically ask for and ensure you get the extra oil, you'll be running on low oil constantly.

Makes me wonder about the dealer

If the guy is going to Jiffy Lube for his oil changes, he clearly doesn't care too much for dealer prices or what the dealer has to say. The dealer can't perform miracles, if you don't use the right oil or change it often enough, you will wreck your engine.

**nickbw** · 12-22-2013, 06:31 AM

Originally Posted by sjonnie

In theory yes, but the standard oil change at the Jiffy Lube is up to 5qts of oil, these engines need 6qts. The Jiffy Lube guys don't know that, so unless you specifically ask for and ensure you get the extra oil, you'll be running on low oil constantly.

If the guy is going to Jiffy Lube for his oil changes, he clearly doesn't care too much for dealer prices or what the dealer has to say. The dealer can't perform miracles, if you don't use the right oil or change it often enough, you will wreck your engine.

However, the PCV procedure clearly has not been done effectively. Further more, there is no account to support the view that the OP has taken the trouble to monitor performance, post -PCV cleaning. He could have monitored vaccum via Vida/DiCE monitoring, or better still using a blutooth OBDII and android/torque smatphone system. Either way, such a strategy would have disproved/proved the effectivness of the PCV system maintenance. I am not a very skilled DIY mechanic but I did the PCV overhall system recently and the results proved a worthwhile transition from positive crancase pressure, to -20 - -25 negative crankcase pressure. Using dyno oil in these engines is stupid. Expecting any grade oil to last more than 5K is also foolish. Indeed dyno oil is a no no, simples! Anyone who wants one of these cars to perform faultlessly over high miles, should in my opinion fit an aftermarket transmission cooler and probably a mangefine filter. These transmissions work well, but they have known defects and weaknesses. Overheating of transmission fluid is the biggest killer of auto transmissions, bar nothing. Members of this site have plenty of evidence to persuade them that taking cheap shortcuts will result in disaster. Tho OP to this thread only has theemselves to blame! They have not done their homework! We don't have jiffy lube here in the UK, but we do have many equally stupid vehicle owners who believe in miracles!

**tnduc** · 12-22-2013, 02:17 PM

Stay away from the Jiffy Lube and any other generic 30 minute oil change places as oil is too crucial to the longevity of your motor. Either do it yourself or take it to a competent dealer. Key word being "competent" as all dealers are not.

**mpitts** · 12-31-2013, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by sjonnie

Killed it. You cannot use dino oil in these engines, even the semi-syn the dealer puts in will gunk them up eventually. Synthetic (0W30 or 0W40) is all you should use.

sjonnie, 0W30? Do you live in a place with no winter? I always use 5W30. I live in Sugar Hill, NH. The high temp today, NYE, is 10 F. Any insight you could provide would be helpful as to why you don't use any winter weight.

**billr99** · 01-01-2014, 06:39 AM

Originally Posted by mpitts

sjonnie, 0W30? Do you live in a place with no winter? I always use 5W30. I live in Sugar Hill, NH. The high temp today, NYE, is 10 F. Any insight you could provide would be helpful as to why you don't use any winter weight.

Hmmm, the oil debate continues. Me, I've used 10W30 synoil year round in all my white block Volvos and have yet to wear out a motor. And that usage includes 7 years in Northern Ontario with winters of -30 to -40C and the odd summer time temp of +35C. Now I range between -20C and 30C with a lot more short trips and 10W30 at 10K km intervals is still working great.

So far, knock on wood, I've also had no PVC issues even at the higher klicks.

Cheers,

Bill