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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    100

    Default Ball joint replacement - brand review

    First question: How hard is it to replace the ball joints? Do I have to remove the control arm? Are there any write-ups available?

    Second question: Is the Karlyn brand any good?

    Thanks!
    2004 XC70 2.5 T5 AWD 150K Mobil 1
    2000 VW Passat Wagon V6 150K Castrol
    2000 Tacoma PreRunner 190K Castrol
    2000 Isuzu Trooper 4WD 140K Castrol

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    241

    Default

    You do not need to remove the control arm. I would check the How-To section for wheel bearing or hub assembly replacement, the process will get you to a point where you can remove the ball joint. I used the strap method to pull the control arm down with success. Once you get the knuckle and the control arm separated you should be able to separate the ball joint from the knuckle using a thin pry bar or flat head screw driver and some light taps of a hammer. Be very careful not to ruin the mating surface of the knuckle. After you have removed the old ball joint you should be able to align the new one and tap it in by placing an exhaust pipe coupler just big enough to fit over the rubber boot of the ball joint and tapping with a hammer. Do not use the bolts to suck the joint into the knuckle.

    I believe I installed either Lemforder or Meyle on my '01 without any issues.
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    807

    Default

    Lemförder is OEM.
    Replacing balljoint requires clear thinking.
    The three parts, balljoint, LCA, and the knuckle are aluminum. Be careful using sharp instrument.
    I was replacing the entire front suspension, therefore, had the knuckle on the bench.
    The balljoint coming out using the ratchet-strap is a myth. However, it does wonders when aligning LCA to the balljoint before putting a nut on it. Requires extreme force, inhuman.



    Quote Originally Posted by surfercalavera View Post
    First question: How hard is it to replace the ball joints? Do I have to remove the control arm? Are there any write-ups available?

    Second question: Is the Karlyn brand any good?

    Thanks!
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ Instant MPG 12 - 63/ Pirelli 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ +200Kmi/ Great Lakes

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,442

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    The balljoint coming out using the ratchet-strap is a myth.
    It works when the car is on a lift. With the suspension hanging down you get more leverage on the control arm. A heavy duty ratchet strap with full handle helps too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    I've done the ball joint replacement - four times. Based on this I recommend the following:

    1 - remove the knuckle completely and work on work bench to remove/replace ball joint - much easier than messing with it on vehicle and you don't need any straps
    2 - there is cast pipe union piece at Home Depot about 2.5 inch in diameter. Use this to drive in the new ball joint - do not use the fastening screws to drive it down.
    2 - do not use Meyle brand ball joint - I did and ended up doing the work two times. I used Volvo OEM ball joint the second time around for both sides
    Last edited by Tonyx; 11-01-2013 at 05:55 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    saont louis missouri
    Posts
    68

    Default

    Why did you say not to use Meyle brand ball joint ?
    thanks stlnoble
    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyx View Post
    I've done the ball joint replacement - four times. Based on this I recommend the following:

    1 - remove the knuckle completely and work on work bench to remove/replace ball joint - much easier than messing with it on vehicle and you don't need any straps
    2 - there is cast pipe union piece at Home Depot about 2.5 inch in diameter. Use this to drive in the new ball joint - do not use the fastening screws to drive it down.
    2 - do not use Meyle brand ball joint - I did and ended up doing the work two times. I used Volvo OEM ball joint the second time around for both sides
    2007 XC70 WILLOW GREEN METALLIC
    "NEVER SURENNDER"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    807

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stlnoble View Post
    Why did you say not to use Meyle brand ball joint ?
    thanks stlnoble
    Not worth a penny. High performing object.
    Use Volvo or lemforder.
    I will go with TonyX method anytime.
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ Instant MPG 12 - 63/ Pirelli 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ +200Kmi/ Great Lakes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,911

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyx View Post
    I've done the ball joint replacement - four times. Based on this I recommend the following:

    1 - remove the knuckle completely and work on work bench to remove/replace ball joint - much easier than messing with it on vehicle and you don't need any straps
    2 - there is cast pipe union piece at Home Depot about 2.5 inch in diameter. Use this to drive in the new ball joint - do not use the fastening screws to drive it down.
    2 - do not use Meyle brand ball joint - I did and ended up doing the work two times. I used Volvo OEM ball joint the second time around for both sides
    Exactly how I've done it on both cars. My time and effort are valuable...so I don't waste either on junky parts. I used Volvo...saving $20 on this job is foolish...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xheart View Post
    Not worth a penny. High performing object.
    Use Volvo or lemforder.
    I will go with TonyX method anytime.
    I believe that Lemforder is one of Volvo's OEM suppliers for ball joints so it is possible that Volvo vs. Lenforder is really one and the same. With that said, I've had issues using both and have found that Meyle last just as long (or short in my case). Its probably more a function of the crap roads I have to deal with but I think that the ball joints in this chassis are under-engineered regardless of brand. What's weird is that I never had similar problems with my 700s or 850/SV70 chassis. In fact, I never had to replace one in any of thosecars despite big miles on many bad roads.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

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