driveshaft bearing, bearing support bracket and cv bolts at each end

**jebbcorp** · 10-17-2013, 03:01 AM

Ok, I now own a Volvo XC70 2001.
#1 What is the spec on the bolts that connect the driveshaft to the transmission and the rear transaxle? The PO took out the rear driveshaft and lost the bolts. Eight in front and 8 at rear correct?

#2 IS the center bearing replaceable? How do I split the drive shaft near the U-joint into two parts to remove the bearing? The bearing is loud, the rubber is shot and the mounting bracket surrounding the rubber is rusted.

#3 The carrier that bolts to the underbody with 4 bolts is rusted out. This is what the center bearing mounts to. The center bearing mount points are gone. What is the part name and number on that "U" shaped metal bracket that goes up and around the drive shaft and that the center driveshaft bearing mounts to?

**howardc64** · 10-17-2013, 08:32 AM

Here is a link when I replaced my propeller shaft

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvo....htm#874378164

But a few questions + answers

- Why was the propeller shaft taken out by the PO? Usually, this is to eliminate RWD because some part of the drive train has problems. It is usually the angle gear (the part that turns the transversely mounted engine+transmission power 90 degrees towards the back of the car) or maybe the prop shaft had problems.

- I've heard the center bearing is NOT replaceable. Best option is to get it rebuilt by Colorado Driveshaft (I guess they must have the equipment to replace it) About $500. You can probably also ask them about the bolt spec. Looking at my old pictures, appears to be 6 on each end. There are also 3 crescent moon shaped washers on each end. One washer for 2 bolts. So make sure you have these. There is a pic of the washer in this link on prop shaft replacement. Note this is for the older gen XC.

http://www.swedespeed.com/artman2/pu...ft_Repair.html

- My memory is hazy and the car is not here at the moment. I recall the center bearing bolts to a plate/bracket and that plate/bracket bolts to the underbody. If you are missing the plate/bracket, the center bearing's bolt holes probably doesn't line up to anything on the underbody. Googled for images but couldn't find anything quickly to share. Here is a printout of Volvo's parts list showing a cross member.

Prop Shaft.pdf

**jebbcorp** · 10-17-2013, 01:43 PM

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the center bracket or carrier pan was rotted out, and the bearing came loose. that is why it was removed I was told. I found a driveshaft in "A" condition for $141, and a new pan and the bolts I need for $60. $201 total. Now we will see what else is going on... How does the transmission work .... time will tell.

**JRL** · 10-17-2013, 02:31 PM

I have one of those brackets but it's for a 98-2000
How would you know a used propshaft is in "A" condition, because the seller said so?

**howardc64** · 10-17-2013, 03:14 PM

Originally Posted by jebbcorp

the center bracket or carrier pan was rotted out, and the bearing came loose. that is why it was removed I was told. I found a driveshaft in "A" condition for $141, and a new pan and the bolts I need for $60. $201 total. Now we will see what else is going on... How does the transmission work .... time will tell.

Wow, that looks pretty bad! I guess you guys get the salted roads

On checking a used prop shaft quality, I took a closer look when I had mine out due to a clicking noises in the front CV. When I twisted the front CV slowly, I can feel a light click/play and not perfectly smooth operation. The back CV felt perfectly smooth as I twisted in any angle. My center bearing looked to be in good shape and didn't feel any looseness problems when spinning by hand. Now of course non of this at at speed but I also had no howling bearing noise either so it was reasonable to gamble that it was good. I think JRL is right, you kinda have to take the previous owner's word for it on the center bearing assuming it looks descent. The CVs can probably be more easily checked by hand for play.

I must admit, I couldn't really tell as a first timer but my friend with lots of experiences on drive shafts in particular showed me how to twist and turn the joints to feel for wear.

The front CV wears faster. I heard it is due to the grease loosing its effectiveness being heated up by the nearby hot catalytic converter. So you might check that on your used driveshaft and replace if necessary.

**guyeye** · 10-18-2013, 07:06 AM

Wow! That picture really makes me appreciate the lack of salt on the roads in the south. I'm from Michigan, and I always thought salted roads were a conspiracy between the big 3 to get you to buy a new car evey 3 years. Just thought I'd interject with a completely useless comment. Good luck! Check Erie Volvo. Unparalleled customer service and reliability for a used parts broker.

**Xheart** · 10-18-2013, 12:53 PM

It must have rusted after taken off, or the car sitting in a flood.
The shaft is located in a tunnel, and the exhaust limits it exposure to the ground. Very little salt can reach or stick to shaft since it rotates, i mean fast. I am surprised that it is not made from aluminum of steel. Could it be sanded and restored?

Originally Posted by jebbcorp

the center bracket or carrier pan was rotted out, and the bearing came loose. that is why it was removed I was told. I found a driveshaft in "A" condition for $141, and a new pan and the bolts I need for $60. $201 total. Now we will see what else is going on... How does the transmission work .... time will tell.