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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    New England
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    241

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjonnie View Post
    Many people here, myself included, find the tension strap thing a bit of a joke (i.e. ineffective and impossible to work with). Much easier to remove the entire steering knuckle and work on the ball joint off the car. If you're concerned about the alignment, mark the position of the strut bolts, but usually it's advisable to get an alignment after replacing suspension components anyway.
    Fair enough. For me it is very easy to do and has worked every time. Last time I did front end work I sheared a 3/8" socket as well as my breaker bar trying to loosen the strut bolts. My compressor was elsewhere at the time. For those that do not have a compressor and adequate impact gun the strap method may be their only hope.
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    3,851

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    Wait...you say that you broke a 3/8" wrench on those?!? Of course you did! What on Earth were you doing with a 3/8 set on those strut/knuckle bolts? 1/2 inch or impact gun with 1/2 inch sockets...I've used both...

    But if you undo the strut bolts - you have modified the camber and you'll need a new alignment.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
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    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    SLC, Utah
    Posts
    289

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    I struggled for WAY too long trying to remove/replace the control arm without removing strut bolts. My strut bolts came off pretty easy. I can't recall if I used a 3/8 or 1/2 breaker bar but I own no air tools and had no issues. Just undo those bolts and don't waste your time trying muscle parts in or putting things on a strap under that much load when the strut bolt method is SOOOO easy. Mark the position beforehand if you want to wing it, but it is also totally worth getting an alignment after new suspension hardware.

    Control arm does not need to be removed for balljoints. I only removed it because I was replacing the whole arm due to bad bushings. My balljoints were fine.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    241

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Wait...you say that you broke a 3/8" wrench on those?!? Of course you did! What on Earth were you doing with a 3/8 set on those strut/knuckle bolts? 1/2 inch or impact gun with 1/2 inch sockets...I've used both...

    But if you undo the strut bolts - you have modified the camber and you'll need a new alignment.
    Ha, I know. I didn't have anything else to work with so I was trying to make do. I got both bolts off one side and 1 bolt off of the second side before breaking the breaker bar on the last bolt. Soooooo close. I have done quite a bit of work on the cars I have owned self-teaching myself along the way (with the help of forums like this) however every time I learn something new, no matter how small the job is. This was my lesson for that day.
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,441

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    Quote Originally Posted by kain View Post
    Fair enough. For me it is very easy to do and has worked every time. Last time I did front end work I sheared a 3/8" socket as well as my breaker bar trying to loosen the strut bolts. My compressor was elsewhere at the time. For those that do not have a compressor and adequate impact gun the strap method may be their only hope.
    Great! I bought a 10,000lb ratchet strap specifically for this purpose, what a waste of time! Does nothing, maybe I'm doing it wrong. As for those bolts, the Haynes manual suggests a torque of 105ft lbs +90degrees. I've never been able to get them that tight, even with a 3' breaker and 1/2" sockets. I guess if your mechanic went to town with the impact wrench the way they seem to do on lug nuts you'll need something longer!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
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    1,441

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    But if you undo the strut bolts - you have modified the camber and you'll need a new alignment.
    I think we'd both recommend an alignment after replacing suspension components. But really, there is so little to work with when it comes to strut bolt placement that I've always just re-tightened them in the middle position and the camber has been within spec, no problem.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    100

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    I am still not sure I get where the tension is coming from. What is compressing what? Also, what is the reason for painting the strut bolts and what exactly is being mark off?
    I am not sure this is a simple for me anymore.



    Thanks for the information though!

    Quote Originally Posted by FirstVolvo View Post
    This is something I wrote up for ball joint replacement on my 2001 V70, should be very similar for XC70. The only thing I'll add is use OEM or equivalent quality ball joint replacement parts. I used Karlyn brand and the rubber boots are gone on both sides after only 4 years so I now have to do it all again and soon.

    https://www.box.com/shared/5alpt6bqxn
    2004 XC70 2.5 T5 AWD 150K Mobil 1
    2000 VW Passat Wagon V6 150K Castrol
    2000 Tacoma PreRunner 190K Castrol
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfercalavera View Post
    I am still not sure I get where the tension is coming from. What is compressing what? Also, what is the reason for painting the strut bolts and what exactly is being mark off?
    The tension is from the control arms pushing up and the suspension spring pushing down. In order to relieve pressure on the ball joints you need to pull the control arms past the extension of the springs. The idea is to use a tension strap between the two control arms and pull them together such that the pressure is released. As I said, this has never worked for me. Instead, by removing the strut bolts you allow the steering knuckle to assume a new position at approximately 90 degrees to the control arm that relives the tension imparted by the suspension spring. The reason for painting the strut bolts is that their absolute position on the strut determines the camber angle of the tire. Your alignment specialist will change this when they do a computerized alignment adjustment.

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