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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    100

    Default Ball Joint Replacement

    I am in urgent need of information and guidance on replacing the ball joints on my 04 XC70.
    I am looking for:

    1) Any tutorials/videos (I know my way aroudn an engine)
    2) Any advice on the procedure
    3) Any idea of how much I should pay if I end up taking to the mechanic

    Thanks!
    2004 XC70 2.5 T5 AWD 150K Mobil 1
    2000 VW Passat Wagon V6 150K Castrol
    2000 Tacoma PreRunner 190K Castrol
    2000 Isuzu Trooper 4WD 140K Castrol

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    241

    Default

    If you follow the procedure for control arm replacement in the "How-To" section you will get to a point where the ball joint is exposed and can be replaced if needed. You'll need jack stands, ratcheting straps, and the standard assortment of wrenches and sockets.

    Use a flat blade screw driver or small pry bar to get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Be gentle, work it from both sides.

    When reinstalling make sure the ball joint holes are lined up with the steering knuckle holes before trying to knock it in. I found a tip on here to use a 3-4" section of exhaust pipe big enough to fit over the rubber boot of the ball joint to whack it into place. Do not use the bolts to suck it in, you may strip the holes out.

    All in all it is a fairly simple job if you know your way around a car.

    Lastly, go OEM or Lemforder.

    Any other specific questions let me know, I just did this a couple of weeks ago so it is still fairly fresh in the noggin.
    Take your time
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Thanks.
    I guess I am having trouble picturing how the straps are used and for what reason.
    Also, do you remove the control arm first or can you just remove the ball joint?

    How long did it take you?

    thanks !
    2004 XC70 2.5 T5 AWD 150K Mobil 1
    2000 VW Passat Wagon V6 150K Castrol
    2000 Tacoma PreRunner 190K Castrol
    2000 Isuzu Trooper 4WD 140K Castrol

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    241

    Default

    The ratcheting strap is run from control arm to control arm and it is used pull down on the control arm that is jacked up in the air so that you can lift the steering knuckle up and out of it. When done properly the strap will be under a considerable amount of tension so don't use a crappy old one, make sure the one you use is in good shape.

    If I recall the order correctly it should go in this order:

    1. Put front end up on jack stand and remove wheel.
    2. Remove lower ball joint nut. Make sure to use the counter hold (either Torx or allen depending on your ball joint) at the center of the ball joint stud. I suggest hitting this nut with some PB Blaster a couple hours prior to aid in removal.
    3. Use straps to pull down on control arm so that you can lift steering knuckle out and have access to the ball joint.
    4. Use small pry bar to pop ball joint out of knuckle.
    5. Install new ball joint into the knuckle. Make sure it is aligned correctly prior to fully setting into the knuckle. If you get it just right and the splines align it should go in fairly easy.
    6. Use a small sledge and a small section of exhaust pipe big enough to fit over the rubber ball joint boot to set into place. This took some time on one of the two I have done. Be patient if it is going slow, it will go in little by little. DO NOT suck it into place using the two bolts.
    7. Install the two ball joint bolts and torque to spec.
    8. Install the steering knuckle back into the control arm.
    9. Install the ball joint nut. Be sure to use the counter hold on the ball joint stud to prevent tearing of the rubber boot. Torque to spec.
    10. Release ratcheting strap.
    11. Install wheel, remove jack stand and lower car.

    This could take anywhere from 20-60min. The possible issues I see that will slow you down are step 2 and 6.
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Thanks so much!
    Now, would be extra work to remove the control arm instead of the strapping steps?
    2004 XC70 2.5 T5 AWD 150K Mobil 1
    2000 VW Passat Wagon V6 150K Castrol
    2000 Tacoma PreRunner 190K Castrol
    2000 Isuzu Trooper 4WD 140K Castrol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    241

    Default

    No, doesn't work that way. The strap thing is a piece of cake, takes 2 min total to set up; 5 min maybe if it's your first time.
    current: 2001 XC70 207,000mi, original tranny

    past: 1987 740GLE tranny...bleh
    past: 1979 240DL head-on collision

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by surfercalavera View Post
    Thanks so much!
    Now, would be extra work to remove the control arm instead of the strapping steps?
    It would be next to impossible to apply such a force that would align with the ball-joint shank to pass through the control arm.
    If not, you may seriously hurt yourself, please be extremely careful.
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ Instant MPG 12 - 63/ Pirelli P4 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ 190K-mi/ Great Lakes

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,442

    Default

    Many people here, myself included, find the tension strap thing a bit of a joke (i.e. ineffective and impossible to work with). Much easier to remove the entire steering knuckle and work on the ball joint off the car. If you're concerned about the alignment, mark the position of the strut bolts, but usually it's advisable to get an alignment after replacing suspension components anyway.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    112

    Default

    This is something I wrote up for ball joint replacement on my 2001 V70, should be very similar for XC70. The only thing I'll add is use OEM or equivalent quality ball joint replacement parts. I used Karlyn brand and the rubber boots are gone on both sides after only 4 years so I now have to do it all again and soon.

    https://www.box.com/shared/5alpt6bqxn

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FirstVolvo View Post
    I used Karlyn brand and the rubber boots are gone on both sides after only 4 years so I now have to do it all again and soon.
    Wish I could get 4 years out of my ball joints. Roads here are so bad that lately I can't seem to get more than 18-24 months out of a set of Lemforders. They literally pound out the balls or the sockets. I have to say that it is either the ball joint materials or the design but I have never had a car go thru ball joints like this one and that includes the 800/S/V series I've had.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

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