What would cause a shudder/tremble when idling?

[JRL]

Three (3) three
Upper torque
lower, (right side)
transmission, rear (left underside)

The hydraulic mounts (2) are a bit too much for you to do and are probably OK
Subframe needs to be dropped

[nmonk]

Pretty simple to replace the cvvt solenoid.

Disconnect battery (neg terminal is fine)

Remove the top timing belt cover (left most cover when looking at engine from front) This is held down by 2 torx bolts and two metal clips.
Unplug the CVVT solenoid cable.
The solenoid is located over the top of the exhaust cam. It is held down by four bolts. Remove those bolts and lift the cvvt solenoid off the engine.
Remove the old gasket, there will be a small amount of oil leaking out, just wipe it clean.
If you have got a IPD replacement solenoid it comes with a new gasket, fit this and bolt on the new solenoid.

Now have a look at the plug on the existing cable. The wires are labeled 1 and 2 and the markings are hard to find. You need to know these numbers as you are going to need to cut the old plug off and crimp the new style on.
Assemble the new plug with the included wires from IPD and strip 1/4" of insulators on all four wires but don't forget what wire is what number.
Crimp the correct wires together.
Reconnect battery and start car.
If all ok then replace cam belt cover and go enjoy.
Best luck.

Nathan

You wouldn't by any chance have a write-up on that procedure would you? And out of curiosity, how much was the part?

I'm leaning towards an issue with the CVVT system over the coils, MAF, etc... Though I may do the coils myself anyway in the Spring (which in Boston isn't for another few months), just as proactive maintenance, and see how it runs from there.

Also, has anyone here ever run the "Quick test of intake camshaft control" test in VIDA? There's also the exhaust camshaft test as well.... Wonder if that would help isolate the problem.

[surfercalavera]

Oh! I went by IPD's blown out image, it seems like there are two of the mounts labeled "C" (see diagram)

Three (3) three
Upper torque
lower, (right side)
transmission, rear (left underside)

The hydraulic mounts (2) are a bit too much for you to do and are probably OK
Subframe needs to be dropped

[JRL]

Those are the hydraulic mounts and usually are good
You need to drop the subframe to replace those, (usually never necessary) so you replace the other three first and see
How many miles again on your 04?

Replace A B and D

[surfercalavera]

Great info. It has 156K, I replaced the torque mount already, not much difference, but will be replacing A, and B for sure first. If I see improvement, I will prob. return the C mounts. Thanks again.

[shammyh]

Pretty simple to replace the cvvt solenoid.

Disconnect battery (neg terminal is fine)

Remove the top timing belt cover (left most cover when looking at engine from front) This is held down by 2 torx bolts and two metal clips.
Unplug the CVVT solenoid cable.
The solenoid is located over the top of the exhaust cam. It is held down by four bolts. Remove those bolts and lift the cvvt solenoid off the engine.
Remove the old gasket, there will be a small amount of oil leaking out, just wipe it clean.
If you have got a IPD replacement solenoid it comes with a new gasket, fit this and bolt on the new solenoid.

Now have a look at the plug on the existing cable. The wires are labeled 1 and 2 and the markings are hard to find. You need to know these numbers as you are going to need to cut the old plug off and crimp the new style on.
Assemble the new plug with the included wires from IPD and strip 1/4" of insulators on all four wires but don't forget what wire is what number.
Crimp the correct wires together.
Reconnect battery and start car.
If all ok then replace cam belt cover and go enjoy.
Best luck.

Nathan

Much obliged! Did you notice an immediate difference in the idle? Also, did your fuel economy improve at all either? Or anything else for that matter?

[nmonk]

Idle is now much better with out the lights dipping and the CIM (dash lights) flickering as well. I had tried to clean the CVVT but that was no good. Power is restored, no idle throb and she just sounds happier. I am back down to 11Lt per 100km sorry we are on metric here. Think that is about 22 miles per gallon? This is highway/mixed, i now get about 12.5 around town. Much better than b4 the cvvt repair.

Best of luck.

Nathan

Much obliged! Did you notice an immediate difference in the idle? Also, did your fuel economy improve at all either? Or anything else for that matter?

[Volvoholic]

I seriously feel like this is what I've been trying to get fixed for a while on my '07 with no luck. This is why I picked up fuel system cleaner. Also the reason why I thought my alternator was going out, all the lights in my car flicker only when it's running, never on ACC power. I'm around the same mileage as the OP but idk if the 04 and 07 share the same CVVT sensor.

[Julien]

Exactly the same thing used to happen to my '04 when I first bought it. A clean of the PCV system fixed it.

[surfercalavera]

How did you clean it?
I ask because I just replaced my PCV system, new hoses, oil trap, etc. and still does it. So I am curious as to what and how you did it. Thanks!

Exactly the same thing used to happen to my '04 when I first bought it. A clean of the PCV system fixed it.