Ignition lock cylinder problems? Read This! Save money!!

[nortons]

When I bought my 2000V70XC, the previous owner supplied a new, Volvo ignition lock cylinder assembly, still in the factory packaging to replace a failing one. Problem was; wrong key, so wouldn't work with my immobilizer, etc. No local Detroit area locksmith would re-code cylinder to my existing key. Snotty local Volvo dealer wanted $$$$$$ for new one and would only order one if I left the car and they installed it at 1.5hrs labor at $125hr.
After Internet search, I found "Premier Locksmith" in California who said "Sure, no problem" So, I sent off the OEM Volvo lock cylinder assembly along with my spare key for re-code. Charge-$90 including shipping. Works like a charm!! Highly recommended. These lock cylinder assemblies are commonly available on Ebay for around $40 or so, They are essentially worthless if they are not the right key for your car as the immobilizer and other security stuff won't work with a key it doesn't recognize. That's why you can get a new, expensive, OEM Volvo part so cheap.The dealer will charge you $300-$400 plus gouge you on the labor and want to hold your car for a week or so. Just be absolutely positive you are buying the correct part with the correct part number for your car, but don't worry about the key code. You may, in a pinch, find a good used lock cylinder assembly from the salvage yard for $10 or $20, too. Again, don't worry about the key, Elliot at premier will re-code the lock cylinder to the spare key for your car you send him.
Details for locksmith are;
Premier Locksmith
180 S. Spruce Ave.
Suite B
South San Francisco, California
94080
call 415 240 8487, ask for "Elliot"
Replacing the lock cylinder assembly is not that difficult;
You will need a set of small male end "TORX" bits. I like the screwdriver type ones for stuff like this and a small, 1/2in wide or so cold chisel and a small ballpeen hammer. You may also need a Dremel tool with a cutting disc and a small sanding drum if you goober things up.
Send your replacement lock cylinder assembly and your spare key to Elliot at Premier Locksmith. He'll call you when he is ready to send it back to you for credit card authorization for $90, including return shipping. Takes about a week door to door.
When it returns, do this;
First disconnect the battery and remove the fuse for the airbags and wait a half hour or so.
Working inside the car, pull the steering wheel as far out as it will go. Remove the steering column cover by pushing the upper cover up and apart at the joint just behind and closest to the wheel. Volvo plastic is brittle as hell and breaks incredibly easily! There are two slots on the upper cover that slide over pins on the bottom one. The upper cover pivots up toward the dash. There is a rubber piece that snaps into the cover, this can easily be pried off with fingernail or small pliers. The bottom cover is held on with 3 small Torx screws underneath. Ease it past the immobilizer ring and set aside.
Next, for access, you'll want to remove the 2 screws holding the wiper switch and move it up and aside, not necessary to disconnect wiring. Slide off the immobilizer ring and the wire loop for remote start, if you have one, off the lock cylinder.
There are 2 small bolts holding the lock cylinder in place. These bolts have heads that are designed to shear when proper fitting torque is achieved on assembly. They have blue Locktite on them. Take your small cold chisel and hammer and attempt to turn them out. Once it loosens, you can use a small drift to help turn them by using the groove from the chisel as a locating point. BE GENTLE!! DON'T GOOBER UP THE LOCK CYLINDER!! You may have to use a little heat. Threadlockers are softened by heat. I have a small butane fired torch with a pencil tip. BUT FOR HEAVENS SAKE, BE CAREFUL!! DON"T DAMAGE ANYTHING!!! DON"T BURN ANY WIRING!!! Hammer gently and turn the screws out. If you are really unlucky or ham fisted, you will have to drill these out. YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO DO THAT!! If you have gouged up the mounting area of the housing, you will have difficulty turning the mounting screws out or reinstalling the new ones. The interlock cable on the rear of the assembly will slide out once the key is inserted and turned to #1 position. If you have not damaged the upper portion of the lock cylinder assembly, the one on the upper part of the column, leave it in place and re-use.
The electrical part of the ignition switch mounts on the right with 2 small Torx screws. remove screws and move aside
The new lock cylinder installs in the reverse sequence. Be sure the piece that locks the wheel is in it's proper place and no wires, etc, are trapped.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
You may have a problem with the immobilizer cable. Spray some WD40 into the button on the front of the shift lever and down the sliding part visible by the top of the leather cover. Be absolutely sure this is all moving freely. Key in proper position, cable inserted, remove key making sure cable is locked in position. The bolts supplied with the lock are the shear off type. You can substitute a similar socket type head screw, but clearance is a problem as the heads are invariably larger than the special Volvo screws. There are stepped type studs that have the same (Was it 8mmx1.25?) size thread as the special screws and a smaller 5 or 6mm upper portion. You can rig up a couple of lock nuts and some washers of the right OD to fit down into the recess on the mounting ears. Be careful, don't force things, this part is made of soft pot metal and you only get 1 chance before the mounting holes strip. If you use the special Volvo shear off screws to install the assembly, I would not advise torquing them to the point of shear as you may have to take this thing apart again someday. Just tighten enough to firmly hold things in place.
Reinstall the electrical part of the ignition switch on the L/H side.
Reinstall the wiper switch.
Reinstall the immobilizer ring and wire loop for the remote start, making sure the slot on the immobilizer slides onto the boss on the lock cylinder housing.
Reinstall the bottom column cover. You have likely broken off one of the mountings, a longer screw and a washer will secure the cover.
Reattach the upper cover to the rubber piece, engage the slots at the front of the upper with the mounting pins on the lower and gently snap into place.
Reconnect the battery and the air bag fuse.
Check operation of the key and all accessories;wipers, etc.
Potential problem areas;
You can't get the mounting screws on the housing loose; try a little heat but be careful! Don't burn anything.
After installing interlock cable, key will not come out. Remove cable, key comes out easily=button on shift lever is not freely operating.
Housing is loose on column; wire, etc trapped, housing not fully engaged with upper.
Won't start; immobilzer not in position or wiring disconnected.
Steering wheel lock inop; housing not in proper position
Brittle crappy Volvo plastic has broken; You're going to the salvage yard....again!
Done properly, you've saved yourself $250=$400 from having the dealer do this.
Good Luck! It's really not that difficult, though.

[txhoangquan1]

When I bought my 2000V70XC, the previous owner supplied a new, Volvo ignition lock cylinder assembly, still in the factory packaging to replace a failing one. Problem was; wrong key, so wouldn't work with my immobilizer, etc. No local Detroit area locksmith would re-code cylinder to my existing key. Snotty local Volvo dealer wanted $$$$$$ for new one and would only order one if I left the car and they installed it at 1.5hrs labor at $125hr.
After Internet search, I found "Premier Locksmith" in California who said "Sure, no problem" So, I sent off the OEM Volvo lock cylinder assembly along with my spare key for re-code. Charge-$90 including shipping. Works like a charm!! Highly recommended. These lock cylinder assemblies are commonly available on Ebay for around $40 or so, They are essentially worthless if they are not the right key for your car as the immobilizer and other security stuff won't work with a key it doesn't recognize. That's why you can get a new, expensive, OEM Volvo part so cheap.The dealer will charge you $300-$400 plus gouge you on the labor and want to hold your car for a week or so. Just be absolutely positive you are buying the correct part with the correct part number for your car, but don't worry about the key code. You may, in a pinch, find a good used lock cylinder assembly from the salvage yard for $10 or $20, too. Again, don't worry about the key, Elliot at premier will re-code the lock cylinder to the spare key for your car you send him.
Details for locksmith are;
Premier Locksmith
180 S. Spruce Ave.
Suite B
South San Francisco, California
94080
call 415 240 8487, ask for "Elliot"
Replacing the lock cylinder assembly is not that difficult;
You will need a set of small male end "TORX" bits. I like the screwdriver type ones for stuff like this and a small, 1/2in wide or so cold chisel and a small ballpeen hammer. You may also need a Dremel tool with a cutting disc and a small sanding drum if you goober things up.
Send your replacement lock cylinder assembly and your spare key to Elliot at Premier Locksmith. He'll call you when he is ready to send it back to you for credit card authorization for $90, including return shipping. Takes about a week door to door.
When it returns, do this;
First disconnect the battery and remove the fuse for the airbags and wait a half hour or so.
Working inside the car, pull the steering wheel as far out as it will go. Remove the steering column cover by pushing the upper cover up and apart at the joint just behind and closest to the wheel. Volvo plastic is brittle as hell and breaks incredibly easily! There are two slots on the upper cover that slide over pins on the bottom one. The upper cover pivots up toward the dash. There is a rubber piece that snaps into the cover, this can easily be pried off with fingernail or small pliers. The bottom cover is held on with 3 small Torx screws underneath. Ease it past the immobilizer ring and set aside.
Next, for access, you'll want to remove the 2 screws holding the wiper switch and move it up and aside, not necessary to disconnect wiring. Slide off the immobilizer ring and the wire loop for remote start, if you have one, off the lock cylinder.
There are 2 small bolts holding the lock cylinder in place. These bolts have heads that are designed to shear when proper fitting torque is achieved on assembly. They have blue Locktite on them. Take your small cold chisel and hammer and attempt to turn them out. Once it loosens, you can use a small drift to help turn them by using the groove from the chisel as a locating point. BE GENTLE!! DON'T GOOBER UP THE LOCK CYLINDER!! You may have to use a little heat. Threadlockers are softened by heat. I have a small butane fired torch with a pencil tip. BUT FOR HEAVENS SAKE, BE CAREFUL!! DON"T DAMAGE ANYTHING!!! DON"T BURN ANY WIRING!!! Hammer gently and turn the screws out. If you are really unlucky or ham fisted, you will have to drill these out. YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO DO THAT!! If you have gouged up the mounting area of the housing, you will have difficulty turning the mounting screws out or reinstalling the new ones. The interlock cable on the rear of the assembly will slide out once the key is inserted and turned to #1 position. If you have not damaged the upper portion of the lock cylinder assembly, the one on the upper part of the column, leave it in place and re-use.
The electrical part of the ignition switch mounts on the right with 2 small Torx screws. remove screws and move aside
The new lock cylinder installs in the reverse sequence. Be sure the piece that locks the wheel is in it's proper place and no wires, etc, are trapped.
THIS IS IMPORTANT!
You may have a problem with the immobilizer cable. Spray some WD40 into the button on the front of the shift lever and down the sliding part visible by the top of the leather cover. Be absolutely sure this is all moving freely. Key in proper position, cable inserted, remove key making sure cable is locked in position. The bolts supplied with the lock are the shear off type. You can substitute a similar socket type head screw, but clearance is a problem as the heads are invariably larger than the special Volvo screws. There are stepped type studs that have the same (Was it 8mmx1.25?) size thread as the special screws and a smaller 5 or 6mm upper portion. You can rig up a couple of lock nuts and some washers of the right OD to fit down into the recess on the mounting ears. Be careful, don't force things, this part is made of soft pot metal and you only get 1 chance before the mounting holes strip. If you use the special Volvo shear off screws to install the assembly, I would not advise torquing them to the point of shear as you may have to take this thing apart again someday. Just tighten enough to firmly hold things in place.
Reinstall the electrical part of the ignition switch on the L/H side.
Reinstall the wiper switch.
Reinstall the immobilizer ring and wire loop for the remote start, making sure the slot on the immobilizer slides onto the boss on the lock cylinder housing.
Reinstall the bottom column cover. You have likely broken off one of the mountings, a longer screw and a washer will secure the cover.
Reattach the upper cover to the rubber piece, engage the slots at the front of the upper with the mounting pins on the lower and gently snap into place.
Reconnect the battery and the air bag fuse.
Check operation of the key and all accessories;wipers, etc.
Potential problem areas;
You can't get the mounting screws on the housing loose; try a little heat but be careful! Don't burn anything.
After installing interlock cable, key will not come out. Remove cable, key comes out easily=button on shift lever is not freely operating.
Housing is loose on column; wire, etc trapped, housing not fully engaged with upper.
Won't start; immobilzer not in position or wiring disconnected.
Steering wheel lock inop; housing not in proper position
Brittle crappy Volvo plastic has broken; You're going to the salvage yard....again!
Done properly, you've saved yourself $250=$400 from having the dealer do this.
Good Luck! It's really not that difficult, though.

Thue xe Hoang Quan

[thelub]

I just did this this week and it is a pain! But in stead of buying a replacement cylinder, I pulled off the gold plate on the bottom of the cylinder and took out the wheel lock mech and now the cylinder moves freely.

In hindsight, It would have been easier to drill out the studs that hold the cylinder to the steering column than cutting them out which is what I did. The column isn't threaded so if you can drill out the stud heads with a large drill bit on a 90 degree chuck (sold at harbor freight as an add on to a regular drill) the cylinder will drop down. I tried cutting slots in the stud like somebody else had mentioned in another thread here, but IME the metal is too soft to break off the locktite that is used to hold the studs in. I ended up cutting off the heads with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. That is what made it such a pain because there is just barely enough room to get a dremel in there between the steering wheel and the instrument cluster shroud.

Now I just have a dead battery that needs charging and I'll get 100% confirmation that this mod works. I have no reason to believe it doesn't. I've just lost my wheel lock feature, but I could care less. If somebody wants to steal this thing they're more than welcome too. I have full coverage. I'll take the risk over having to spend $2-300 that I'd rather spend on something else.

FWIW this is on a 2002 V70XC. I just realized this is in the 2000 section.

[nortons]

Most of the time, threadlocker products like Loctite will release with heat. I have a tiny butane powered torch that works well, with care! in tight places like this. Another alternative is to find the biggest, most powerful electric soldering gun and just hold it against the part until the threadlocker releases.