View Poll Results: How badly does your engine vibrate?

Voters
48. You may not vote on this poll
  • It feels like a tractor from 1910.

    4 8.33%
  • It's a bit harsh, I'll admit.

    20 41.67%
  • My car should be the standard measurement.

    6 12.50%
  • I'd say it's a bit smoother than most.

    7 14.58%
  • I don't ever really notice it's running.

    10 20.83%
  • Who cares if it's not broken?

    1 2.08%
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Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Yeah mine is a bit rough at idle but it's been this way for about 200k miles. It just seems to be the inherent issue of it being a 5 cylinder in a fwd platform. It's easier to keep vibrations down in a rwd configuration.

    My mom has a 2012 VW jetta with a 2.5 liter 5 cylinder and it idles just about the same as mine so i'm just going to chalk it up as normal and will just keep a eye on my mounts.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,162

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JRL View Post
    Start with ALL the motor mounts.
    You can see the top mount but the lower front and rears start to be bad at these miles
    May not "look" bad but they may be
    Double that. Replaced all 5 a while ago on V70, supersmooth and superquiet since that.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    2

    Default

    My top mount went bad so I replaced it with the newer version of the top mount with the cross shaped rubber center piece. I didn't like it at all, the space between the rubber and the aluminum allowed too much rotation in the engine and although the vibration wasn't bad, I'd get a thunk when accelerating or decelerating the engine.

    I didn't buy the expensive polyurethane bushings due to the complaints of increased vibration.

    I had a tube of black silicone sealant in the garage so I filled in the center of the old one. There is no more engine rotation but it seems to be flexible enough to dampen most vibrations. Might be worth a shot if you have an old upper mount laying around. Still seems fine after about 4K miles.

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    213

    Default

    Funny! I was going to start a thread about vibration, too.

    While replacing the O2 sensor the other week, I removed the strut bar and replaced it. Well, I noticed the attachment at the rear of the upper engine mount has a certain amount of adjustment. Apparently, I had moved it too far in the opposite direction and the vibration was HORRIBLE. Almost like the tranny was going to come loose at every stop/start.

    So, I removed the strut bar again and moved the mount to the exact opposite end and it has seemed to calm most things down. However, it is still worse than prior to my working on the O2 sensor. So, now I will replace the upper engine mount, which I notice has play built in to it unless it has shrunk considerably from new.

    Also, should I replace that additional attachment bushing to the upper mount? That is an odd design if it has built in adjustment, I imagine the designers knew that some adjustment would be needed over time.

    After that, I will try JRL's suggestion of replacing the remaining mounts (I did not realize there were four additional mounts, I''ll have to look at the diagram.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    2,404

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XCNiska View Post
    My engine is super-quiet: '04 XC 70. No issues there at all!
    This is exactly how my 2004 feels like!
    Willy
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    278

    Default

    I did a test yesterday and found that there was more vibration on the right hand side (timing belt's side). What I did was jack up the front of the car so both front wheels were above the ground and then I put the car into D so the wheel moved slowly. Then I have a feel at the wheel by touching the tyres and compared the vibration level by feel. There was much more vibration on the right side than the left side. Same feeling when you hold the steering wheel tight to feel the engine!
    I think its because the design of the strut bar that has the upper engine mount on the side (instead of middle) of the engine.
    I think it would always gives more vibration to the timing belt's side because the upper engine mount is much closer to the strut brace/strut tower on the left. Another point that leads me to this conclusion is that my strut bar get really hot after driving and the right hand side of the bar got much hotter than the left side.
    US drivers would have less vibration than AU drivers based on my "not too solid" theory.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,162

    Default

    Replace all engine mounts, if you want it to be quiet (for a few years). Front and rear are made weak by design for safety reasons, they sag a lot and do not damper vibration as good as new ones.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vtl View Post
    Replace all engine mounts, if you want it to be quiet (for a few years). Front and rear are made weak by design for safety reasons, they sag a lot and do not damper vibration as good as new ones.
    Yep. Put 60 - 80 K miles on them, and even though they appear fine, they let vibration through. Replace them all (as I just did in the T5) and the engine will be very smooth at idle.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    5

    Default

    My engine developed a definite roughness or harshness in vibration most notable at idle while simultaneously having the PCV system fail to the point of blowing out the cam seals. Unfortunately I just did not have time to work on the PCV system until complete failure. I was able to successfully replace the PCV system without doing any permanent damage to the engine. After the PCV repair the roughness continued. I also cleaned the ETM, replaced the mass air sensor, replaced the fuel injectors with ASNU parts, replaced the plugs and wire. Some of these parts were replaced simply due to mileage (250,000 miles) and the engine was running exceptionally well but was still rough (especially at idle). Long story short replaced front, back and side engine mounts and the vibrations disappeared. While not the smoothest motor ever designed it still runs remarkably well at 250,000 miles and can still achieve 30 mpg on the highway. While certain Volvo quirks are frustrating to deal with I can't complain about the stout I5.

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