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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    California
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    122

    Default vibrating and rumbleing when stopped but still in gear

    My 2001 XC70 has 154k miles on the clock. It still runs very good. However it vibrates and rumbles when stopped shifter still in Drive. If I put the shifter into neutral or park the vibration almost disappears. When the car ran for 10+ miles, the vibration, noise and rumbling would reduce to the point that I could not feel and hear it. I first thought this could be caused by the dirty ETM because I could see the RPM went up and down at idle. Cleaned the ETM idle now is running very stable, but it did not fix the vibration and rumbling noise at stop. I noticed the turbo intake short hose was leaking oil, so I went ahead replaced the broken hose. The problem still here.

    I have seen others posting the same issue on other forums, but I could not find the cause and solution anywhere. Could this be the PCV? I know I should clean it because I can see there is a small leak there. Could that be the transmission? I noticed the ATF is a little brown and I need to flush it soon. Just wondering if anyone has any experience on this issue and knows the causes and fixes. Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    4,116

    Default

    While the other maintenance should be done (ATF, clean PCV), they wouldn't cause vibration and rumbling.

    Since the idle RPM is stable, I would take a good look at your engine mounts - all 5, the upper mount, the lower torque mount, front mount, rear mount and right side mount. With this many miles, likely more than one of them is worn and allowing the vibration to be transmitted into the car.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    122

    Default Locations of Engine Mounts

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    While the other maintenance should be done (ATF, clean PCV), they wouldn't cause vibration and rumbling.

    Since the idle RPM is stable, I would take a good look at your engine mounts - all 5, the upper mount, the lower torque mount, front mount, rear mount and right side mount. With this many miles, likely more than one of them is worn and allowing the vibration to be transmitted into the car.
    Good idea and thank you. I am not familiar with the locations of all these engine mounts. I can see the upper engine mount on the top of the engine. Are there diagrams and/or pictures which could help to ID them? Is there any DIY projects documented on replacing engine mounts somewhere? I will search the net for this topic. If someone knows the links please forward post them here. Thank you for the help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swimNdrive View Post
    Good idea and thank you. I am not familiar with the locations of all these engine mounts. I can see the upper engine mount on the top of the engine. Are there diagrams and/or pictures which could help to ID them? Is there any DIY projects documented on replacing engine mounts somewhere? I will search the net for this topic. If someone knows the links please forward post them here. Thank you for the help.
    Went under the car today and found the small robber bushing in the transmission torque mount is completely gone! One of the bushing on the front lower control arm (passenger side) is about time to be replaced. I will deal with these two first and see how it goes.

    Did anyone have experience with the transmission torque mount made by Hutchinson? Dealer quoted me $90+ for an OE one. Should I get it or buy the one made by Hutchinson which is on sale at IPD for $35.24?
    Last edited by swimNdrive; 09-15-2012 at 09:32 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swimNdrive View Post
    Went under the car today and found the small robber bushing in the transmission torque mount is completely gone! One of the bushing on the front lower control arm (passenger side) is about time to be replaced. I will deal with these two first and see how it goes.

    Did anyone have experience with the transmission torque mount made by Hutchinson? Dealer quoted me $90+ for an OE one. Should I get it or buy the one made by Hutchinson which is on sale at IPD for $35.24?
    Hutchinson is OE equivalent so it will last just as long as the OE one, which if you travel rough back roads much won't be all that long. Before I went with poly on the small bush, I was replacing the lower mount about once a year. Since the poly replacement, I haven't had to replaced it since (4 years).

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    I think we've all done the lower torque mount - IPD has a poly replacement, I think.

    I suspect that at 154K, you've got a couple of other mounts gone as well - hard to see the engine mounts' condition unless you move the engine up a bit. I had no vibration on the XC, but when I lifted the engine to do the valve body, the front mount was cracked completely through. With the weight of the engine on it, I couldn't see the crack...at your mileage, I would seriously consider doing the rest of them. IF you can't get to the 3 engine mounts right now, the upper seems to be a high wear item, and it's easy to do... I did not care for the amount of vibration that my T5 had when I used a poly upper mount, so I went back to rubber.


    On the XC, I've replaced the upper mount, lower torque mount and front mount. On the T5, I've replaced all 5 mounts...maybe because I put more strain on the car than my wife on her XC? I don't know, but I do know that I've replaced engine mounts on every Volvo I've ever owned. On my 240 turbo, I did them at least twice. Something about the mounts in a Volvo being softer and/or more stressed so that the engine moves down and under the car in a severe collision, I reckon...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    122

    Default Changed two mounts and now it runs 80% better

    Here is some late updates. After changing the torque mount and the right engine mount, using all Hutchinson, the car runs much better now. Noises are almost gone completely. There is still some small vibrations when ideal at D, which I think it is still not 100% normal. I checked the upper engine mount and the two strut bar mounts, there is some play, but they are looking good. It looks like it will be more difficult to replace the front and back lower engine mount, I will do those at a later time.

    Thanks a lot for help. You people really put in a lot of very useful information on this forum, which helps me to fix my car and saved me some $$$!

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